Canon EOS R5 Unite and Discuss!

goalerjones wrote in post #19539436
They can ship it back to you if there's an actual issue, CPS membership typically means free return shipping.

I dont have CPS membership, I dont qualify for it in my part of the world as I do not shoot professionally. I will have some leaves added to my leave balance in a month or two, will pay them a visit then.

ajayclicks wrote in post #19539453
I dont have CPS membership, I dont qualify for it in my part of the world as I do not shoot professionally. I will have some leaves added to my leave balance in a month or two, will pay them a visit then.

Not sure why Canon CPS requirements differ from country to country?

Though CPS stands for Canon Professional Service; in the US membership is dependent upon the amount of qualifying, registered Canon gear you own; with no need to prove that you use that gear professionally.

It's not about your profession, but rather how much equipment you own that grants points towards membership.

goalerjones wrote in post #19539628
It's not about your profession, but rather how much equipment you own that grants points towards membership.

In February 2023, I received an email from comms.canon-europe.com stating that "in the coming months, the CPS program is changing to a paid service that provides professionals and businesses with advanced expert support - so you can maintain the full potential of your business no matter what happens." According to my equipment points, I was in the Platinum group, which has a newly introduced annual fee of €350 exl. As a hobby photographer, this makes it uninteresting for me .

I've always had the paid service, so I was unaware of them eliminating the free services. But I do know the level isn't mandatory, so you could remain at the lowest service level and still get those benefits.

Checked again. As a non-professional I could sign up for some silver membership of CPS in my country, except that they need ownership of 3-L series lens, whereas I have only 1 L series lens at the moment. I do plan to purchase a RF 24-70 2.8, however not sure if I will replace the EF 70-200 F4L IS with the RF 2.8 version of get a RF 100-500 instead to do a spot of birding etc.

Not in a hurry to buy these lens, plus looking for used gear to save $$ so I may still not qualify for CPS.

In my 15 years of owning different canon bodies- 350D, 7D, 5D Mark 3 and now the R5, this is the first time I am in a situation where I need to take the R5 to the service center.

unless something has changed in your country, each item is assigned points. These points determine which level of the plan you can acquire. Is that no longer the case? Are they asking for specific lens types now?

As I'm looking at the Canon US site, it only requires 10 points of qualifying items for Silver, and that's all products, lenses, bodies, accessories and even printers, Gold is 20 points, and Platinum is 50 points. Your R5 grants you 12 points all by itself.

As for the R5, I had issues with mine and had to take it in for service. They wound up replacing the main circuit board, the entire back plate, and even put in a new sensor. So, for $350 (including the 30% off for my membership, I essentially have a brand new camera. The nice thing about the membership was having a loaner from the time I dropped it off for service, until I returned to pick up my own camera with no questions asked. Plus, with a business I can write off the membership fees at years end.

This is what we have in India:

https://cps.asia.canon​/india/en/home#benefit

I clicked on the link to register for membership hoping that the membership criteria is camera body and/or L-series lens. The following is mentioned in the online registration form:

You need at least 1 Canon Professional Digital Interchangeable Lens Camera body & 3 Canon L-series lenses to qualify for a silver membership; or 2 Canon Professional Digital Interchangeable Lens Camera bodies & 4 Canon L-series lenses to qualify for a gold membership.

That's different for sure, however, Silver discount being 30% is what Platinum has here.

Got my R5 (used from B&H).
Pleased with the colors SOOC, sharpness, AF and controls...
Want to start learning how to shoot and edit video. 4K in defaults settings looks very natural, without editing.
I'm satisfied, my wife as well.


Of course, have many questions... First:

Should I use 1st Elec. 1st curtain instead of Mechanic shutter ? What's the difference in real life (no flash).

Cyberex wrote in post #19539875
Should I use 1st Elec. 1st curtain instead of Mechanic shutter ? What's the difference in real life (no flash).

Lot's of info. "here":
https://www.canon-europe.com …ic-vs-mechanical-shutter/

ajayclicks wrote in post #19539204
Besides this, my Canon 70-200 F4L IS (version 1 from 2009) will not focus consistently at shorter distances of 6- 7 feet. It focusses beautifully at times, and at times wont focus. No issues when I point it at an object around 10 feet away. Given that the MFD is about 4 feet, not sure if it is a camera thing, or the adapter, or the lens. Do not face these issues with my Tamron 24-70 2.8 G1, so I wonder if it's the universe telling me to purchase a 70-200 in RF mount!

TIA for your thoughts and suggestions.

That's a weakness of current mirror-less (non-DSLR) cameras with larger apertures; image-sensor-based AF can not "see" things that are very OOF as well as DSLR AF sensors, to initiate focus change, so the AF system just parks on whatever distance was focused last. The AF system's "vision" has less DOF than with DSLRs.

One needs to learn to get the focus "in the ballpark" quickly to make best use of AF, and shooting close is when things really start to get difficult for the camera. With DSLRs, it was always better to have a faster version of a focal length, as they gave quicker and more confident AF. With the R5 and R7, I find that faster lenses tend to be more problematic for initial large changes in focus distance, even though they are faster once in the ballpark. IOW, if I walk around shooting close birds at eye level in bushes and small trees right off the path, my RF100-400/5.6-8 is far more reliable at 12 feet than my EF400/4DO II; the 400/4 will get "stuck" on the background several times more often than the RF100-400, and even if it does hesitate or get stuck, the RF100-400 has accelerated focus-by-wire that can get manual override in a single twist of the focus ring. Many new RF lenses do NOT have full-time manual focus override, though, like the f/11 telephotos, which is very annoying. The 400/4DO II has override, but the gearing is too slow for timely adjustments; my subject is usually gone be the time I twist my wrist the 2 to 4 times that is often necessary to get focus in the ballpark.

Cyberex wrote in post #19539875
Of course, have many questions... First:

Should I use 1st Elec. 1st curtain instead of Mechanic shutter ? What's the difference in real life (no flash).

EFCS does not involve any shutter shock immediately at the beginning of exposure, so it is more stable. It also makes less noise. However, if you have both a very fast shutter speed, and a very fast f-number during exposure, then any bokeh balls which should be round may be truncated on the bottom, like a moonrise that is still partly below the horizon. That straight horizontal line on the bottom of the bokeh will also play some havoc with OOF horizontal edges.

Lubos-PM wrote in post #19539640
In February 2023, I received an email from comms.canon-europe.com stating that "in the coming months, the CPS program is changing to a paid service that provides professionals and businesses with advanced expert support - so you can maintain the full potential of your business no matter what happens." According to my equipment points, I was in the Platinum group, which has a newly introduced annual fee of €350 exl. As a hobby photographer, this makes it uninteresting for me .

I received the same email. I had a gold membership. However, I only joined in 2020 because members could claim a free RF-to-EF converter. And as a CPS member I got a nice discount on the RF 800/11. Like you, I’m also not going to a paid membership.

John Sheehy wrote in post #19540656
EFCS does not involve any shutter shock immediately at the beginning of exposure, so it is more stable. It also makes less noise. However, if you have both a very fast shutter speed, and a very fast f-number during exposure, then any bokeh balls which should be round may be truncated on the bottom, like a moonrise that is still partly below the horizon. That straight horizontal line on the bottom of the bokeh will also play some havoc with OOF horizontal edges.

thanks.
But for landscapes on f8 it can't have any downsides?
I like to make exp.bracketing handheld, for making HDR sometimes, good to have some backup exposures... Is EFCS can be destructive for images in this situation ? I guess, no.