Canon EOS R5 Unite and Discuss!

Tap the shutter right before bringing up to eye like Ron says. Down in comments.
Don

Whistling Wings Photography

Quote:

I know what you mean about the delay in the EVF coming on. What I have learned to do is half-press the shutter button as I am bringing the camera up. By the time your eye gets to the viewfinder the EVF will be on and you can get on the birds just like you would with an OVF. It took me a couple of days to build the muscle memory to the the half-press on the way up and now I don't even think about it, I just do it naturally. That said I hope Canon can make this unnecessary in the future.

https://youtu.be/njEIJ​tpnsFg

Littlefield wrote in post #19124574
Tap the shutter right before bringing up to eye like Ron says. Down in comments.
Don

Whistling Wings Photography

Quote:

I know what you mean about the delay in the EVF coming on. What I have learned to do is half-press the shutter button as I am bringing the camera up. By the time your eye gets to the viewfinder the EVF will be on and you can get on the birds just like you would with an OVF. It took me a couple of days to build the muscle memory to the the half-press on the way up and now I don't even think about it, I just do it naturally. That said I hope Canon can make this unnecessary in the future.

https://youtu.be/njEIJ​tpnsFg

I don't have my R5 yet (still backordered), but I do have the R6. I use the technique described by Don and Ron, and it works. My camera hangs at my side via a BlackRapid strap.

LJ3Jim wrote in post #19124579
I don't have my R5 yet (still backordered), but I do have the R6. I use the technique described by Don and Ron, and it works. My camera hangs at my side via a BlackRapid strap.

I don't have either one yet, but I also live and die by my Black Rapid straps. I could see this as such a natural movement with the BR, since that's basically what I do anyway with my R without even thinking about it.

But it sounds like that really drains the battery rapidly so you need several batteries. That does not address the view finder issue with mechanical shutter where he mentioned the image freezes.

Jeff USN Photog 72-76 wrote in post #19124569
Will talks about it taking 2-5 seconds for the EVF to "boot" up. I tend to sit by a pond and have my camera on my lap most of the time and it can be 20 minutes between birds and then they pop up in front of me, 5 seconds and they would be gone.

has anyone noticed this? I will be testing it out next week when I rent one.

A few weeks ago I posted several scenarios around that in this thread including putting tape over the EVF. That was one idea but it will chew up batteries. Disabling the EF sensor and keeping it in EVF view and pressing the shutter/BBF before bringing it up to your eye. This includes adding max time to the auto power off so the camera never goes to sleep. The EVF shuts off after 6 seconds if there is nothing in front of it. The Display is not active either while you are waiting. The camera is not in sleep mode so when you press the BBF/shutter the EVF is awake by the time you get it to your eye. Also because the EVF sensor is disabled the Display does not wake up first followed by the switch from it to the EVF when you bring the camera up. I set my R up like and I'm testing it out. Even with the camera going to sleep it is still much faster opening directly to the EVF.

I should say that putting tape directly over the EVF sensor won't work. There has to be about an ⅛ inch space. I put a thin strip of tape the height of the EVF sensor and attached it to the outer edges of the eyecup. I've been thinking of making an eyecup adapter to throw on quickly. It would be fine for birds coming in every 20 seconds or so. Not good for 20 minutes. The disabling the EVF Sensor and pressing the BBF/Shutter before bringing the camera up would be better. You just need to get into the habit.

As for max power off settings the IS would run continually without the going to sleep. I don't think that will matter with RF lenses because of the tech. I wouldn't let it run for 20 minutes but I wouldn't care for 2-3 between shooting. On EF lenses pressing the Menu or Playback buttons will shut the IS off.

This is the only thing I miss about the OVF but there are easy work arounds.

I was shooting drag racing last Sunday with the EFV sensor disabled. The minimum power off time is 45 seconds. Again the EFV shuts off after 6 seconds without anything in front of it. I can verify that when I pressed the BBF/Shutter the EVF was completely awake if I did that before the camera went to sleep. I didn’t try it after it went to sleep but I will when I get a chance. It won’t be 2-5 seconds.

butterfly2937 wrote in post #19124549
https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=svfMrg55bBQ

umphotography wrote in post #19124573
wildlife guys

3:45 through 6:00 as well as 9:00-11:00----Must listen closely

If you have ever been to Yellowstone and the Tetons....this is extremely disappointing news

Advantage definitely to DSLR.

Also wondering how its going to PU BIF's that quickly appear. A DSLR can get them if you perfect the skill sets. Sounds like this will be a bit of adjustment on the R5

I absolutely agree....some of the best shots you will ever get is when you surprise wildlife. Camera has got to perform here

Ever since the first time I shot the EOS R I did not like having the CAMERA choose for me whether the EVF or LCD would be active.

I set up the EOS R with a dedicated button to MANUALLY switch between EVF and LCD, this way it's always active when I need it and I don't have to worry about the annoying LCD screen turning on by itself in a dark setting.

With the EOS R5 I'm using a different button because of the slightly different configuration and I'm happy with that and don't have any issues when I need to quickly pull the camera up to my eye and take a picture. I wouldn't have it any other way!

Jared5 wrote in post #19124630
Ever since the first time I shot the EOS R I did not like having the CAMERA choose for me whether the EVF or LCD would be active.

I set up the EOS R with a dedicated button to MANUALLY switch between EVF and LCD, this way it's always active when I need it and I don't have to worry about the annoying LCD screen turning on by itself in a dark setting.

With the EOS R5 I'm using a different button because of the slightly different configuration and I'm happy with that and don't have any issues when I need to quickly pull the camera up to my eye and take a picture. I wouldn't have it any other way!

Exactly.

Reading the manual as I don't have my camera yet. Maybe 20% through, it's crazy long. But I have few questions, maybe this is best place to ask?

If you set dual record (Raw+jpeg) and set NR, does the NR affect both or only jpeg? I don't like camera touching my raw files. Give me raw files raw, but I'm curious to compare since I've heard the in-camera NR is really good too.

Is ISO L (50) digital trick, is the pictures still shot at 100?

Min-shutter speed setting. In Auto-mode, does it take into account the lens? E.g. 200mm lens might go down to 1/200, and 14mm lens would go down to 1/10?

What the "highlight tone priority" actually does? Does is shift more data-bits to better cover the bright areas? I recall some earlier camera just underexposured slightly to make sure not blow out the whites. Is that same? Since it says it doesn't work on ISO100, makes me think it just drops ISO by one stop to preserve highlights. And I don't like camera using different settings than I'm giving it.

For flash ETTL balance, there's option ambiance priority. That sounds good one, I often do this manually when shooting with flash. Does it work as good as advertised?

Flash slow synchro. What is this setting?


As I keep reading more, I'm sure there's plenty more things I don't understand. Thanks for any help, hopefully I get my camera in few weeks.

tpatana wrote in post #19124647
Reading the manual as I don't have my camera yet. Maybe 20% through, it's crazy long. But I have few questions, maybe this is best place to ask?

If you set dual record (Raw+jpeg) and set NR, does the NR affect both or only jpeg? I don't like camera touching my raw files. Give me raw files raw, but I'm curious to compare since I've heard the in-camera NR is really good too.

The raw data itself is not effected. The metadata for the file records the camera settings, and these will be used by Canon DPP for the initial presentation of the RAW image for conversion to JPEG or TIFF.

It's an in-camera gain reduction that does not improve image quality at all.

No. What you set is what you get.

If you're referring to the thumb rule of setting the shutter speed no lower than the f/stop, please understand that that's 1) Based on no more than a 10x enlargement and 2) Based on a given individual's actual ability to hand-hold a camera steady. IOW, it's serendipity if it works for you. You really have to find your own safe hand-holding speeds.

Highlight Tone Priority raises the "toe" of the tonal curve (gain in the shadows) by as much as a stop. The lowest ISO you can set is 200, so it's exposing the highlights as at ISO 200 and the shadows at ISO 100.

tpatana wrote in post #19124647
Is ISO L (50) digital trick, is the pictures still shot at 100?

ISO 50 is no more a digital trick than all the other ISO settings are. It has less RAW headroom, but on the R5 it should be ample to simulate ISO 50 slide film.

On most Canons that have ISO 50, it uses the same gain as ISO 100, and ISO 200 with HTP enabled. It is anti-HTP, if you will, and the only reason not to have "anti-HTP" throughout the range is that Canon fears complaints about clipped highlights from people who expect the camera to behave more like negative film than slide film. For anyone using a camera in controlled light (without specular highlights that need to be recorded), with full manual exposure, "anti-HTP" would be very useful at all ISO levels, as a controlled, predictable kind of "exposure to the right".

digital paradise wrote in post #19124608
A few weeks ago I posted several scenarios around that in this thread including putting tape over the EVF. That was one idea but it will chew up batteries. Disabling the EF sensor and keeping it in EVF view and pressing the shutter/BBF before bringing it up to your eye. This includes adding max time to the auto power off so the camera never goes to sleep. The EVF shuts off after 6 seconds if there is nothing in front of it. The Display is not active either while you are waiting. The camera is not in sleep mode so when you press the BBF/shutter the EVF is awake by the time you get it to your eye. Also because the EVF sensor is disabled the Display does not wake up first followed by the switch from it to the EVF when you bring the camera up. I set my R up like and I'm testing it out. Even with the camera going to sleep it is still much faster opening directly to the EVF.

I would think this would all contribute to overheating as well. The camera is always on- hence the battery drain development. When I was at Grand Teton National park there was about 80 photographers, all in cars, circling the hot spots for moose, Elk, bears....many of us shooting out windows. A moose would walk across a small field and there were 20 cars parked on side of the roads....shooting out windows or guys hand holding 500's standing beside the cars.....no time to wait for a camera to wake up and be useful. There has to be a work around for this. All the focal points in the world are useless if the camera cant lock and track when you need it to

Jared5 wrote in post #19124630
Ever since the first time I shot the EOS R I did not like having the CAMERA choose for me whether the EVF or LCD would be active.

I set up the EOS R with a dedicated button to MANUALLY switch between EVF and LCD, this way it's always active when I need it and I don't have to worry about the annoying LCD screen turning on by itself in a dark setting.

With the EOS R5 I'm using a different button because of the slightly different configuration and I'm happy with that and don't have any issues when I need to quickly pull the camera up to my eye and take a picture. I wouldn't have it any other way!

Thanks

I knew someone would have a work around for this

umphotography wrote in post #19124787
Thanks

I knew someone would have a work around for this

September 2018, Canon told us that at the 1:30 point in this video.

https://www.youtube.co​m/watch?v=dtwKao_nuko