Canon EOS R5 Unite and Discuss!

butterfly2937 wrote in post #19124597
But it sounds like that really drains the battery rapidly so you need several batteries. That does not address the view finder issue with mechanical shutter where he mentioned the image freezes.

He does note that he is using the old LP-E6 batteries as the N and NH are not available.

I bought a couple of LP-E6NH batteries from my local camera store a few days ago. It looks like https://www.kenmorecam​era.com/ still has them in stock.

Windsun33 wrote in post #19124860
He does note that he is using the old LP-E6 batteries as the N and NH are not available.

Apparently there is a major difference in battery life and FPS between the old and new batteries. I have not had a chance to check this out with my R5 yet though.

Jeff USN Photog 72-76 wrote in post #19124569
Will talks about it taking 2-5 seconds for the EVF to "boot" up. I tend to sit by a pond and have my camera on my lap most of the time and it can be 20 minutes between birds and then they pop up in front of me, 5 seconds and they would be gone.

has anyone noticed this? I will be testing it out next week when I rent one.

I haven't noticed this issue. What I will say is that the AF doesn't start working when you bring it to your eye UNTIL you press the shutter/AF-ON button. You can be focused in LV, but bringing it to your eye doesn't carry the focus over. I have yet to run into a situation where this would be a concern to me.

The other issue he mentions with the screen freezing up also has not happened to me. I don't shoot with a 400, but do use a 300 and have not encountered that problem. This I could see being a bigger issue, but certainly not the 30-45 seconds he mentions. Screen locks, pop battery, reinsert, move on.

John Sheehy wrote in post #19124735
ISO 50 is no more a digital trick than all the other ISO settings are. It has less RAW headroom, but on the R5 it should be ample to simulate ISO 50 slide film.

Maybe I've misunderstood, but I thought the normal ISO range 100-51200 is changing gain on sensor, and at least on some earlier camera for 50 the sensor gain is same as 100 and it'll basically post-process 1 stop to make it look like 50. Which would be identical for LR/PS 1 stop change, and hence doesn't make sense to do in-camera. Or have I misunderstood?

digital paradise wrote in post #19124619
I should say that putting tape directly over the EVF sensor won't work. There has to be about an ⅛ inch space. I put a thin strip of tape the height of the EVF sensor and attached it to the outer edges of the eyecup. I've been thinking of making an eyecup adapter to throw on quickly. It would be fine for birds coming in every 20 seconds or so. Not good for 20 minutes. The disabling the EVF Sensor and pressing the BBF/Shutter before bringing the camera up would be better. You just need to get into the habit.

As for max power off settings the IS would run continually without the going to sleep. I don't think that will matter with RF lenses because of the tech. I wouldn't let it run for 20 minutes but I wouldn't care for 2-3 between shooting. On EF lenses pressing the Menu or Playback buttons will shut the IS off.

This is the only thing I miss about the OVF but there are easy work arounds.

Why would you want to put tape over the sensor? Just program the DOF preview button to toggle between displays. Since I am already holding the camera by the grip, I just press that button when I want to switch to the back screen, then set it again to go to EVF for the remainder of the time.

EDIT: I see Jared beat me to the punch!

tpatana wrote in post #19124909
Maybe I've misunderstood, but I thought the normal ISO range 100-51200 is changing gain on sensor, and at least on some earlier camera for 50 the sensor gain is same as 100 and it'll basically post-process 1 stop to make it look like 50. Which would be identical for LR/PS 1 stop change, and hence doesn't make sense to do in-camera. Or have I misunderstood?

I suspect we won't know specifically when electronic gain switches to digital gain on the high end of the ISO spectrum. Just because Canon puts an ISO range out there, doesn't mean the entire range is analog gain. It just means that is the range they are happy with the results for the public, and the extended ISO are not great at all, but available for those that want to use it.

umphotography wrote in post #19124786
I would think this would all contribute to overheating as well. The camera is always on- hence the battery drain development. When I was at Grand Teton National park there was about 80 photographers, all in cars, circling the hot spots for moose, Elk, bears....many of us shooting out windows. A moose would walk across a small field and there were 20 cars parked on side of the roads....shooting out windows or guys hand holding 500's standing beside the cars.....no time to wait for a camera to wake up and be useful. There has to be a work around for this. All the focal points in the world are useless if the camera cant lock and track when you need it to

Battery drain isn't a contributor to the heat. The rear LCD is, as might be the EVF, as has been shown a few times. Running those displays at whatever speed they are seems to heat up the LCD controller, or the EVF. The EVF might even have a higher resolution than the rear LCD too so it may kill the battery more perhaps than the rear LCD, but won't contribute as much to the heat, but I am not sure.

Reading the manual and it says you can specify which display comes on, I would set it t only be the EVF not the read display

Jeff USN Photog 72-76 wrote in post #19124956
Reading the manual and it says you can specify which display comes on, I would set it t only be the EVF not the read display

Yes, you can lock it, but then you can also assign any button to toggle back and forth. Good for showing someone a picture you took or use the rear touch screen to pinch zoom and review an image.

RDKirk wrote in post #19124649
...



Highlight Tone Priority raises the "toe" of the tonal curve (gain in the shadows) by as much as a stop. The lowest ISO you can set is 200, so it's exposing the highlights as at ISO 200 and the shadows at ISO 100.

Did you reverse those ISO numbers, or am I missing something?

https://www.dreamstime​.com …-priority-explained-40542

Thanks, that's what I thought

TeamSpeed wrote in post #19124937
Why would you want to put tape over the sensor? Just program the DOF preview button to toggle between displays. Since I am already holding the camera by the grip, I just press that button when I want to switch to the back screen, then set it again to go to EVF for the remainder of the time.

EDIT: I see Jared beat me to the punch!

Because then I don’t have to remember to press the BBF or shutter before bringing it to my eye. I’d only use it when there is a lot of action. If I do proceed I’ll probably make a quick install adapter.

I’ve never really liked the DOF for anything. I find it very awkward. Since I never record that button is pretty convenient. Easy to put back to recording if I do.

Thanks for the heads up, they are my “local” store also and just snagged two online.

Free delivery, saves me the round trip from Marysville to Kenmore.


Now just waiting to hear if my R5 will be in the coming shipment or if I have to wait for the next one.