SkedAddled wrote in post #19108627
I'm glad to see this mentioned, as it's a point which is frequently glossed over.
I recently went from dual Dell U2412M 1920x1200 24-inch monitors to a pair of AOS 27-inch
3840x2160 monitors, factory-calibrated. Colors, contrast, sharpness, accuracy, and much more
are greatly improved over the Dell monitors, and I only adjusted brightness & contrast.
The standards and manufacturing technologies are only getting better all the time.
Get something modern & current, and you'll be good.
My set of NEC monitors look great "factory calibrated" and compared to other on-screen imaging. Once put next to an actual product in hand under a viewing booth, the first thing noticed is that the reds are waaaayyy off, yet still look good. Calibration doesn't do much to these monitors, other than tone down the saturation and alter the hue on the red a bit. And I still have a set of U2410s calibrated for aRGB that almost the same as the new expensive Eizos and NECs. Not perfect (lower gamut), but at least predictable when you respect the monitors limitations.
The OP's comment was that "When I've had photos printed the colours have not been accurate". So YES, the first thing to do is to calibrate the monitors to a known standard, brightness, and profile. I too can judge color quite well and come pretty close to approximating the RGB/CMYK components on most colors as well as determining color temperature of lighting in studio for rough setup. But, I wouldn't try my eyes to judge for print, no matter if it's on a desktop IJ or 12-ink WF print. Without that known standard, the colors that "look great on screen" and "as told by other people" become too dark or light in print. So, if the print's too bright, you darken it on screen to get it right. But it looked right on the screen...when really your screen was too dark and you pushed brightness/exposure/gamma to get the image looking right. Then, since you darkened it, you now think the reds aren't punchy enough and add saturation to get the screen right. Well, that blows out the print gamut so the print is now wrong again. It's an endless shot-in-the-dark unless you have knowns and references to work from.
Getting something modern and current is a good start, but no substitute for proper calibration. At that point, you might as well save the dollars, get something a few years older, and just calibrate. Especially since the OP isn't looking for dead-perfect color accuracy (like studio product shoots where the client expects the shot AND print to match the physical product they just sent you), but rather predictable results from shot to screen to print. Not investing in calibration gear (you can buy a used i1 or equivalent on ebay and then use the free DispCalGui to calibrate the monitor) when publishing for Facebook, Instagram, or Flickr is fine, and nobody will know the difference. But you'll know real quick once you try printing the image and it looks nothing like what you edited on screen!