Ring Light Problem/Question...

I'd be doing this.
https://photography-on-the.net …showthread.php?​p=19114543

No need for modeling light with a flat light set up.

windpig wrote in post #19118516
I'd be doing this.
https://photography-on-the.net …showthread.php?​p=19114543

No need for modeling light with a flat light set up.

I believe the OP really wants to control lighting somewhat via seeing BEFORE exposure, so the 'constant' source allows one to see via the viewfinder how subject details are portrayed. Classically this was accomplished via modelling lights, while the flashtube provided sufficient level of illumination for exposure. The recommendation about LED ring light came with the understanding that the constant light of the LED assist with preview of the subject.

Simply putting an electronic flash on a translucent panel provides no ability to preview the effect of lighting on the coins he wants to show off to best advantage. Overhead lighting is flat...on the other hand, a ring ligh is not much different in that regard!...preview capability or not! IOW the recommendation really improved nothing with regard to lighting the coin. That the LED is 'constant light' makes it easier to focus when in dark ambient conditions, so it is not without benefit.

My prior responses merely dealt with the technical...the lines shown on the LCD. This post addresses the inadequacies of ring light for showing off surface detail and texture.

I know what you're saying Wilt, but still, I think taking pictures of coins with flat light (using his words) is pretty simple using the set up with the diffuser and a flash. Plus he'll have the ability to use low ISO and smaller aperture. Plus the set up and shooting is simple.

Pete E wrote in post #19118478
I am basically trying to produce flat evenly lit almost shadowless pictures of an object, with no artistic licence allowed...if I can get to grips with this, I may venture into using flash for my own pictures of these items, but that will be a bit further down the road.

As mentioned by windpig, you don't need modelling lights or continuous ring lights if the lighting is to be flat and shadowless. Shadowless is synonymous with directionless, and for that you want to use a room-sized bounce from a flash or strobe. The room should be all-around white or off-white, while the lighting instrument can be a single $20 manual flash off eBay. No further lights or modifiers are needed.

joeseph wrote in post #19118511
Would it be possible to tether the 50D to a laptop & see if the problem exists viewing on a different screen? A bit more set-up involved but a lot of photography is done this way

Definitely an idea to try and one I had considered but not got around to due to the learning curve....

Thanks to everyone for taking the time and trouble to post info and suggestions it really is much appreciated..

I will hopefully be following up some of the ideas and suggestions at the weekend..

Thanks again,

Peter

RicoTudor wrote in post #19118572
As mentioned by windpig, you don't need modelling lights or continuous ring lights if the lighting is to be flat and shadowless. Shadowless is synonymous with directionless, and for that you want to use a room-sized bounce from a flash or strobe. The room should be all-around white or off-white, while the lighting instrument can be a single $20 manual flash off eBay. No further lights or modifiers are needed.


I shot a heap of such objects for an art catalog in assembly-line fashion with no exposure adjustments at all.

Given the number of people who have suggest trying a flash, I should add that I do have a Speedlite 420ex and a small diffuser so that is a possibility which I may follow up...

Also, out of curiousity, I tried using the cameras live-view with a small LED desk lamp I happened to have, and no black lines, indicating to me the ring light is poorly designed for the job...

Anyway i hope to try things out in earnest at the weekend when I have more time....

Regards,

Peter

the bigger the diffuser the better, that's why the diffuser in the link I posted is nice. The closer you are to the subject the small the diffuser needs to be. Are you able to set up a tripod? if so live view using a flashlight for enough to focus if there is not enough ambient light available.