joeseph wrote in post #19182876
why? they serve both to keep direct light off the lens & stop the front element from hitting the pavement...

You asked for it.
My main beef is with the size. I was away from photography for 30 years. When I got back, lens hoods had become huge. I've got a whole cabinet full of lens hoods. I admonish my wife periodically about the refrigerator and pantry, DON'T STORE AIR. Lens hoods, when stored or transported, are liters and liters of air. I generally carry 3 lenses in my bag. If I carry hoods, even reversed, one of those lenses has to stay home.
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© drsilver [SHARE LINK] THIS IS A LOW QUALITY PREVIEW. Please log in to see the good quality stuff. Left: Canon 24-105mm f/4 with hood, circa 2016. Right: Nikkor 24mm f/2 with hood, circa 1980.
And then there's the efficacy.
There's a relatively small angle when a hood would be both needed and effective for blocking flare. With a 24mm lens, three's probably 10 degrees between where you don't need a hood and where a hood won't help.
When a lens hood comes into play, you're looking at a tough shot anyway. You might reconsider the angle of your light. But if you think, no, this is the shot I want, then a left hand is an almost-always-adequate shade.
Personally, I run into this situation seldom enough where I can't justify always carrying 60-70% of extra lens volume on multiple lenses (hood reversed, do the math), especially when organic solutions exist to solve this particular problem (move your feet to change the angle, use your hand to shade the lens, find some out-of-frame shade to stand in.)
Yes, a giant lens hood will provide marginally more protection than a filter. Hell, you've got a traffic cone clipped to the end of your lens. They should paint them orange, you know, for safety. Also, if you're out shooting landscapes or wildlife and need to dig a latrine, a lens hood would make a fine spade in a pinch. Could happen.
Scott M wrote in post #19182964
The glass on a lens front element is a lot thicker and tougher than that used for a filter. The glass breaking on a filter does not mean the same would have happened to the front element. If you had put a piece of tissue paper in front of the lens and it became torn, does that mean it kept the front element from being damaged, too?
I spent 10 years banging Nikons around. Bumps and bruises were a badge of honor. But I don't think I ever scratched a lens element.
I kept (and keep) UV filters on my lenses religiously, and maybe that's why. Or maybe not. That's not why I use them. It's the rim shot I'm protecting against.
If you drop a camera, it's probably not going to land, bullseye, on the front element. The bezel on the front of the lens is way more likely to take the blow than the recessed glass. If you bang the rim hard enough it will damage the mechanics and brick the lens. More likely, you'll bend the bezel and that lens will never take filters again -- which sucks.
Filter rims are soft metal, aluminum or brass. They chip, buckle and deform to absorb blows. The glass is fairly fragile across its face, but has some rigidity around its circumference. If the frame buckles, the glass will shatter with energy now directed away from your camera.
Filters are fragile. They're meant to be. You want them to be the weak link. If anything breaks, it's the filter.
So yeah, lens hoods offer better protection and provide convenient shade when necessary. But I can't get past the size when filters are 95% as good at protecting against rare events and they're 5mm thick.