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Thread started 13 Jan 2021 (Wednesday) 10:56
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recommendation for filter for 16-35L/f2.8

 
PhotoSF
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Jan 13, 2021 10:56 |  #1

Hello, I'm looking for a good UV filter for my Canon 16-35L II/f2.8 lens (82mm). I don't want a cheap filter but I also don't want to pay more than is necessary. The filter will be used for protection. I will also be looking to buy a circular polarizer eventually.

Thanks for your help.


Canon R5, Canon 5D Mark II, Lumix LX 100, Canon G11, Canon 20D, Canon EF 16-35 f/2.8L, EF 70-200 f/2.8L, EF 50mm f/1.8, Sony NEX5R, Sony 18-55 f3.5-5.6, Sony 55-210 f/4.5-6.3.

  
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strobe ­ monkey
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Jan 14, 2021 00:51 |  #2

B+W XSPro either 007 or 010


R5, RF 85 f1.2L, RF 50 f1.8, 6D, EF16-35 F4L IS, EF50 f1.4, EF 100 f2.8 L Macro IS

  
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camerabug
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Jan 14, 2021 19:13 |  #3

From what I understand, UV protective lenses are no longer a benefit to digital sensors. I'd recommend a "Clear Filter" instead. I use B+W but I have a few Hoyas that work just as well.




  
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artyH
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Jan 15, 2021 09:56 |  #4

Lenstip has a couple of detailed filter reviews. I like the HOYA HMC filters. Full multicoating works and I use these filters on my lenses. I would avoid any filter that is not multicoated and I recommend checking the reviews. The Hoyas are reasonably priced and work well.




  
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Jan 15, 2021 10:35 |  #5

You paid good money for that excellent glass, keep it free. Use the lens hood and cap for protection. Shooting through windows isn't something I cotton to........




  
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Jan 15, 2021 10:38 |  #6

+1 for no point of UV filters on digital camera. Clear, protective filter. I have no problem with Hoya on mine 16-35L f2.8 II.


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PhotoSF
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Jan 16, 2021 20:34 as a reply to  @ kf095's post |  #7

Thanks for the replies. I will go with clear. I like the post from the photographer who doesn’t shoot with a filter, however I’m too much of a klutz not to have protection on my front element.


Canon R5, Canon 5D Mark II, Lumix LX 100, Canon G11, Canon 20D, Canon EF 16-35 f/2.8L, EF 70-200 f/2.8L, EF 50mm f/1.8, Sony NEX5R, Sony 18-55 f3.5-5.6, Sony 55-210 f/4.5-6.3.

  
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Jan 18, 2021 00:09 |  #8

I always use a filter out front. I've broken a couple so I know they work. Optically, glass in a good one rounds to transparent at however small you want to measure it. I think lens hoods are dumb.

I've settled on Hoya EVOs. Good glass, slim, well-machined frame, and really easy to clean. That last piece is why I like them. I used to use B+Ws but the counterfeiting problem scares me. Of course my opinion has about as much weight as any random Amazon review.


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joeseph
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Jan 18, 2021 01:04 |  #9

drsilver wrote in post #19182860 (external link)
I think lens hoods are dumb.

why? they serve both to keep direct light off the lens & stop the front element from hitting the pavement... -?


some fairly old canon camera stuff, canon lenses, Manfrotto "thingy", and an M5, also an M6 that has had a 720nm filter bolted onto the sensor:
TF posting: here :-)

  
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Scott ­ M
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Jan 18, 2021 07:11 |  #10

drsilver wrote in post #19182860 (external link)
I always use a filter out front. I've broken a couple so I know they work.

The glass on a lens front element is a lot thicker and tougher than that used for a filter. The glass breaking on a filter does not mean the same would have happened to the front element. If you had put a piece of tissue paper in front of the lens and it became torn, does that mean it kept the front element from being damaged, too?


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drsilver
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Post edited over 2 years ago by drsilver. (2 edits in all)
     
Jan 18, 2021 13:45 |  #11

joeseph wrote in post #19182876 (external link)
why? they serve both to keep direct light off the lens & stop the front element from hitting the pavement... -?

You asked for it.

My main beef is with the size. I was away from photography for 30 years. When I got back, lens hoods had become huge. I've got a whole cabinet full of lens hoods. I admonish my wife periodically about the refrigerator and pantry, DON'T STORE AIR. Lens hoods, when stored or transported, are liters and liters of air. I generally carry 3 lenses in my bag. If I carry hoods, even reversed, one of those lenses has to stay home.

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Left: Canon 24-105mm f/4 with hood, circa 2016. Right: Nikkor 24mm f/2 with hood, circa 1980.


And then there's the efficacy.

There's a relatively small angle when a hood would be both needed and effective for blocking flare. With a 24mm lens, three's probably 10 degrees between where you don't need a hood and where a hood won't help.

When a lens hood comes into play, you're looking at a tough shot anyway. You might reconsider the angle of your light. But if you think, no, this is the shot I want, then a left hand is an almost-always-adequate shade.

Personally, I run into this situation seldom enough where I can't justify always carrying 60-70% of extra lens volume on multiple lenses (hood reversed, do the math), especially when organic solutions exist to solve this particular problem (move your feet to change the angle, use your hand to shade the lens, find some out-of-frame shade to stand in.)

Yes, a giant lens hood will provide marginally more protection than a filter. Hell, you've got a traffic cone clipped to the end of your lens. They should paint them orange, you know, for safety. Also, if you're out shooting landscapes or wildlife and need to dig a latrine, a lens hood would make a fine spade in a pinch. Could happen.

Scott M wrote in post #19182964 (external link)
The glass on a lens front element is a lot thicker and tougher than that used for a filter. The glass breaking on a filter does not mean the same would have happened to the front element. If you had put a piece of tissue paper in front of the lens and it became torn, does that mean it kept the front element from being damaged, too?

I spent 10 years banging Nikons around. Bumps and bruises were a badge of honor. But I don't think I ever scratched a lens element.

I kept (and keep) UV filters on my lenses religiously, and maybe that's why. Or maybe not. That's not why I use them. It's the rim shot I'm protecting against.

If you drop a camera, it's probably not going to land, bullseye, on the front element. The bezel on the front of the lens is way more likely to take the blow than the recessed glass. If you bang the rim hard enough it will damage the mechanics and brick the lens. More likely, you'll bend the bezel and that lens will never take filters again -- which sucks.

Filter rims are soft metal, aluminum or brass. They chip, buckle and deform to absorb blows. The glass is fairly fragile across its face, but has some rigidity around its circumference. If the frame buckles, the glass will shatter with energy now directed away from your camera.

Filters are fragile. They're meant to be. You want them to be the weak link. If anything breaks, it's the filter.

So yeah, lens hoods offer better protection and provide convenient shade when necessary. But I can't get past the size when filters are 95% as good at protecting against rare events and they're 5mm thick.


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joeseph
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Jan 28, 2021 01:49 |  #12

drsilver wrote in post #19183113 (external link)
If you drop a camera, it's probably not going to land, bullseye, on the front element.

I did just that once with a 16-35mm on the front (tripod/camera fell over, from eyelevel to concrete..) and have never used a protective filter since...

thanks for explaining though, always good to hear of other folks' experiences.


some fairly old canon camera stuff, canon lenses, Manfrotto "thingy", and an M5, also an M6 that has had a 720nm filter bolted onto the sensor:
TF posting: here :-)

  
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recommendation for filter for 16-35L/f2.8
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