Getting started with flash

So, I am a hobbyist photographer. Mostly shoot sports with some wildlife/landscape. I would like to at least learn the basics of flash use, but I don't plan on setting up a studio or anything like that. Maybe just some indoor photos of events/holidays/family​.

I don't want to get too much money wrapped up in flash as I don't know how much I will be using it.

Would a Canon Speedlight EL-100 be a good speedlight to start with to learn the basics of flash?

Thanks for any input.

Heya,

https://www.adorama.co​m …wE&utm_source=a​dl-gbase-p

Knock yourself out.

Very best,

Thanks for the link. I kind of like the small form factor for the on camera flashes.

Would the Godox V350C be a similar equivalent to the Canon flash?

Rudimentary Primer about types of flash available to work with your camera

1. Canon-dedicated eTTL (thru the lens flash metering auto power control) automatic flash exposure and automatic adjustment of flash to suit the FL of the lens being used to take the photo
   
2. Non-dedicated flash with photosensor in flash unit to control flash power
   
3. Non-dedicated flash with only manual flash power settings to control flash power
   

I have found this guy does an excellent job in presenting topics. I am not affiliated in any way, just found them to have really good information. Heck for all I know he is Wilt......

Thanks for the information and the video link. I will check it out.

HKGuns wrote in post #19186555
I have found this guy does an excellent job in presenting topics. I am not affiliated in any way, just found them to have really good information. Heck for all I know he is Wilt......

No, he is not me! Good tutorial, nonetheless.

CurtisN, one of our resident flash experts, wrote up a great set of tutorials that can be found here;
https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=138907

If you are interested in 3rd party flash that will be as future proof as one can ask for, you are on the right track to be looking at the Godox/Flashpoint units. I'd recommend them over any 3rd party, in fact over any flash, due to their amazing expand-ability.

however, i would not start with a more compact unit like the 350, and just get the full sized 860 that has it's own rechargeable battery;
https://www.bhphotovid​eo.com …v860ii_for_cano​n_kit.html
https://www.adorama.co​m/fplfsmzl2ca.html

If you end up not wanting to expand, this could be the last flash you ever buy. Or it could be the start of a great kit. If you go with the 350m I almost guarantee you will be looking at the 860 in a matter of weeks.

P.S the Adorama flash point is the same flash unit. Some, including myself, like to buy the Flashpoint version for local customer service and support vs. dealing with the manufacturer in China.

So when a flash lists a zoom range, like 24-105, what does that mean in practice?

duckster wrote in post #19186714
So when a flash lists a zoom range, like 24-105, what does that mean in practice?

It means the tube in the flash head can be moved forward/backward to be less/more focused, and cover more/less of the scene. The zooming number generally means that the flash is set to match the field of view of that given focal length lens. But, may also only refer to full-frame coverage, not crop.

See also: https://photo.stackexc​hange.com …or-when-selecting-a-flash

Personally, I think an EL-100 is probably a great choice if you're only going to be using on-camera bounce flash and not going Strobist with off-camera flash. It's also a better choice if you're shooting mirrorless, because a smaller/lighter camera balances better with a smaller/lighter speedlight.

However, if you're shooting a Canon dSLR, I'd actually recommend looking at the Godox TT685-C (US$110). Full-sized, full-featured, and useful for both on-camera bounce flash as well as off-camera Strobist setups. The TT350-C ($85) is also good, but since the head only rotates 270º, not 360º, and it's only powered by 2xAA nor 4xAA, it's not quite as good for bounce flash.

Most of Godox's speedlights do come in two versions: a "TT" AA-battery powered version, and a "V" li-on rechargeable pack powered version. The V versions are more expensive, but the li-on pack has roughly 3x the capacity of a set of AAs, and is more convenient if you do a lot of heavy, prolonged flash photography (say, back to back portrait sessions or all-day wedding shoots). For a hobbyist with light usage, it may make more sense to save a little cash and use batteries you can source at a big box store. The V350 is the li-on version of the TT350; the V860 II is the li-on version of the TT685.

So, another question. If shooting indoors with a speedlight, you can use a more standard variable zoom like a 18-135 NanoUSM and don't have to use the f2.8 or prime 1.8 lenses? Or should you still use the faster lenses?

My experience with Godox flashes is great. Two years ago I bought two TT600 manual flashes and the Xpro trigger and it all works very well with all my cameras, including my new R6.

duckster wrote in post #19187310
So, another question. If shooting indoors with a speedlight, you can use a more standard variable zoom like a 18-135 NanoUSM and don't have to use the f2.8 or prime 1.8 lenses? Or should you still use the faster lenses?

Absolutely, you'll have more than enough power to use smaller apertures.

CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #19187370
Absolutely, you'll have more than enough power to use smaller apertures.

Excellent. I have been reading and watching videos. Can you do ETTL with full manual settings on the camera? For example, 1/160, f4, ISO 200 and then still let the flash do ETTL or if you go manual, do you have to go manual on the flash?

Yes, you can. In fact I almost always shoot fully manual settings in camera with flash, whether I use manual flash or ettl.

You will learn as you do that what happens is the more you are manually setting an underexposed exposure with natural light, the more power is sent to the flash, and this of course begins to dramatically change the nature of your lighting. If your close to a correct exposure for the light present, the flash acts as "fill". As your exposure gets darker, eventually the flash just becomes your "main light"

Adjusting ISO also has huge impact,. lower iso, the shorter distances your flash will effect,. ie: if your subject is 8 feet away, and the back wall is 20 feet, at low iso when the subject is lit with the flash, the back wall may be very dark or black. Push up the iSO and eventually everything gets lit.

You'll have fun experimenting.