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FORUMS Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon Lenses 
Thread started 05 Apr 2021 (Monday) 21:18
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35L .. bends?

 
roszell
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Location: Lafayette, LA
     
Apr 05, 2021 21:18 |  #1

So, I just noticed my 35mm f/1.4L "bends". Like right near the focus window, one side will separate slightly if I hold the bottom and pull the other end to the side. It doesn't seem to affect anything, but was considering selling it and wanted to get it repaired first (or just keep it if the repair is too expensive). Anyone ever see this? If anyone has done this repair or had it done, is it something I can do myself or how much to repair it?


R6 Mark II35L 70-200 2.8L IS II580EX II1.4x extender IIIRF100-400mm F5.6-8 IS USMRF24-105mm F4-7.1 IS STM

  
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iroctd
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Apr 06, 2021 12:16 |  #2

I have the same lens. Took it apart in 2017 to replace a broken aperture and just happen to have the photos I used for reference.

I believe it is part YA2-3071. This part contains the circuit board, bottom outer shell (which has the USM window) and metal mount. There are 4 screws holding it to the USM motor and if they're loose it could likely cause your bending.

Going in this far, there are no adjustments to worry about and you don't get into the USM or glass assemblies. You just need to take care removing the flexible electrical cables (fingernails help), get the proper set of screwdrivers or you'll damage the screw heads and what I believe will be the hardest part is taking out CYI-2799, the rear baffle. I like to use a very small flat blade screwdriver and lift it at the gap where the plastic part is that contains the electrical contacts. That is along the short side, not the long side of that plastic electrical contact piece.

Don't over tighten the screws during reassembly as it can warp things and this is just plastic that can strip out.

Take care loosening tight screws. Most have a bit of sealant on the heads which can be seen. Get a firm grip on the screwdriver and apply force toward the screw as well as turning it in the loosening direction. This will keep the screwdriver seated firmly and not back out any while turning which would chew up the metal of the screw head.

Also be certain when you put the metal mount back on that the screws are all tightened down. Sometimes (I've done this) screws are all started to align the part before tightening but not all the way in. If you mount it on a camera with a screw sticking up it might be very difficult to separate the two!

I put the reference photos and parts catalog in a dropbox share since it is more than the 2 image limit on here. No need for an account to view.

https://www.dropbox.co​m …RqZFe7EwL3q-Y0difSOa?dl=0 (external link)

https://www.amazon.com …_asin_title?ie=​UTF8&psc=1 (external link)

These screwdrivers are discontinued on amazon but will give you a idea of what I used...
https://www.amazon.com …_asin_title?ie=​UTF8&psc=1 (external link)

This sounds like a lot but it is a real easy fix.
Let me know if you need help.


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roszell
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Apr 06, 2021 13:24 |  #3

iroctd wrote in post #19219328 (external link)
I have the same lens. Took it apart in 2017 to replace a broken aperture and just happen to have the photos I used for reference.

I believe it is part YA2-3071. This part contains the circuit board, bottom outer shell (which has the USM window) and metal mount. There are 4 screws holding it to the USM motor and if they're loose it could likely cause your bending.

Going in this far, there are no adjustments to worry about and you don't get into the USM or glass assemblies. You just need to take care removing the flexible electrical cables (fingernails help), get the proper set of screwdrivers or you'll damage the screw heads and what I believe will be the hardest part is taking out CYI-2799, the rear baffle. I like to use a very small flat blade screwdriver and lift it at the gap where the plastic part is that contains the electrical contacts. That is along the short side, not the long side of that plastic electrical contact piece.

Don't over tighten the screws during reassembly as it can warp things and this is just plastic that can strip out.

Take care loosening tight screws. Most have a bit of sealant on the heads which can be seen. Get a firm grip on the screwdriver and apply force toward the screw as well as turning it in the loosening direction. This will keep the screwdriver seated firmly and not back out any while turning which would chew up the metal of the screw head.

Also be certain when you put the metal mount back on that the screws are all tightened down. Sometimes (I've done this) screws are all started to align the part before tightening but not all the way in. If you mount it on a camera with a screw sticking up it might be very difficult to separate the two!

I put the reference photos and parts catalog in a dropbox share since it is more than the 2 image limit on here. No need for an account to view.

https://www.dropbox.co​m …RqZFe7EwL3q-Y0difSOa?dl=0 (external link)

https://www.amazon.com …_asin_title?ie=​UTF8&psc=1 (external link)

These screwdrivers are discontinued on amazon but will give you a idea of what I used...
https://www.amazon.com …_asin_title?ie=​UTF8&psc=1 (external link)

This sounds like a lot but it is a real easy fix.
Let me know if you need help.

Wow! You're awesome, thanks for the info! I already have a nice set of small screwdrivers for electronics, so it sounds like I should be able to get in there and assess things at least.


R6 Mark II35L 70-200 2.8L IS II580EX II1.4x extender IIIRF100-400mm F5.6-8 IS USMRF24-105mm F4-7.1 IS STM

  
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35L .. bends?
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