EOS R3 (Discussion Thread)

apersson850 wrote in post #19474617
I noticed an issue with the R3 when using the EF 85 mm f/1.4L IS USM.
This lens requires the stabilizer mechanism to "park" before you remove it from the camera. If you don't allow this, the mechanism will rattle all the time when moving the lens around, and that's not good for it. Parking is no issue when using it on a DSLR, like the 1DX Mark II or whatever. Just let go of the shutter button, wait half a second or a second to be sure and remove the lens. It's now parked.
But not so with the R3. Since it doesn't have an optical viewfinder, it will keep the electronic viewfinder active for a while after letting half-press of the shutter button go. While this is going on the lens will not park the stabilizer!
There are three ways around this:

1. Turn the camera off completely and then you can remove the lens in good order a few seconds later.
   
2. Wait for viewfinder timeout, viewfinger goes to sleep and then you can remove the lens in good order.
   
3. Remove the lens, immediately mount it on a DSLR and remove it again. Now it's parked.
   

The last one is of course not too realistic, but it works.

apersson850,

Your advice is excellent and explained very well.
I have had an experience but with my EF 100 2.8 L Macro IS USM lens when mounted on my EOS R3, that seems like what you described.

Last September I used my EF 100L at an event and when I returned, the lens really rattled and I could see an optical element floating inside the lens, near the lens’ mount.
It was if the item/ part/ optical group that I viewed, was as jiggly as jello.

I sent the lens to Canon’s CPS for service.
They replaced the AF Assembly, and they brought the lens back to order.
It was a costly repair.
Tiered list price was $249 for this repair, but my CPS membership reduced that cost considerably.

On a document returned with the lens, they wrote about the issue that they found
(I am really happy that they took the time to write, and to explain what was wrong).

I had never heard of what they explained, so I researched the users manual for the lens.

From page 11 of the English version of the manual for this lens, was this caution:

"The Image Stabilizer operates for about two seconds even when your finger is off of the shutter button. Do not remove the lens lens while the stabilizer is in operation. This will cause a malfunction."

On the day that I was using the lens, I do not remember hitting it or jarring it in any manner.
I do remember changing lenses a couple of times, and perhaps I did not change it in the manner that Canon suggests or requires.

When I sent it in for repair, I thought it may be just “old age” and a part broke from either use, or some plastic part dried-up and cracked.
I bought the lens in 2012.

I have no fight with Canon, or the service that I received from CPS.
I have no quarrel whatsoever, with this lens.

I relay this experience if it serves to be useful to anyone else that owns such items.

BTW, in my opinion, this is one of very few Canon EF lenses that went up in price considerably from what I paid for it.
MSRP is typically $1,300 USD for it, though it is also ‘on sale’ in the moment.
I mention this because knowledge of this shutdown process is apparently needed, or you can harm an expensive item.

Find the manual that I mentioned, on this Canon USA page, and you can see their words about it:

https://www.usa.canon.​com …100mm-f-2-8l-macro-is-usm

There you go. But with a DSLR, it's literally a second or two, then you can remove it. As I have my R3 set up, it's half a minute. I have to turn the switch to OFF to cut that time.

apersson850 wrote in post #19474617
I noticed an issue with the R3 when using the EF 85 mm f/1.4L IS USM.
This lens requires the stabilizer mechanism to "park" before you remove it from the camera. If you don't allow this, the mechanism will rattle all the time when moving the lens around, and that's not good for it. Parking is no issue when using it on a DSLR, like the 1DX Mark II or whatever. Just let go of the shutter button, wait half a second or a second to be sure and remove the lens. It's now parked.
But not so with the R3. Since it doesn't have an optical viewfinder, it will keep the electronic viewfinder active for a while after letting half-press of the shutter button go. While this is going on the lens will not park the stabilizer!
There are three ways around this:

1. Turn the camera off completely and then you can remove the lens in good order a few seconds later.
   
2. Wait for viewfinder timeout, viewfinger goes to sleep and then you can remove the lens in good order.
   
3. Remove the lens, immediately mount it on a DSLR and remove it again. Now it's parked.
   

The last one is of course not too realistic, but it works.

Although I don't have any mirrorless bodies, I've always turned the camera (SLR or DSLR) off before changing lenses. Maybe I'm just overly cautious!

sploo wrote in post #19474737
Although I don't have any mirrorless bodies, I've always turned the camera (SLR or DSLR) off before changing lenses. Maybe I'm just overly cautious!

And especially so on a mirrorless body to ensure the sensor is covered.

I've never done it before (turn the camera off just to change lenses, that is). Perhaps it's time to re-learn. Or go on with the DSLR cameras.

Got my R3 today. Have not taken the first shot yet But love it even more than I thought I would. For one, perfect size! 1D X on the heavy side, this just feels right. Will love it more with RF lenses and no adapter.

All my flashtriggers, wireless releases work fine. Needed card reader, memory. And surprised I can use and charge Lp-E4N batteries with it! Did I hear something the 19 charger does not chrge the E4N batteries to full?

A lot new to setup and learn. I think default autofocus settings might be the trickiest for me. Unsure. I know I will default to FV as so easy to change as desired.

I'm fond of ThinkTank retrospective bags. I have both a 7 and a 5. The 7 was needed for 1D X and another lense. The 5 is just too small for the R3, 24-70 and 70-200 which is my preferred carry. Any suggestions for a great bag for that setup plus spare battery, card case, cloth, etc?

And did I mention I got this with the Amazon Prime 10% back so cost was $5039 + tax (unfortunately tax). Happy withthe deal.

Would like to sell (and have ads up) my EF 24-70 and 70-200 and start buying RF lenses. Unsure what to do wuth the 1D X as it works fine and less than 9K clicks, but some times will not start up and gets a little finnicky, though for the last weeks has not failed to start once. If I sold that without wincing horribly, I'd do all RF lenses.

Enough for now.

Bag recommendations welcomed!!!!

OK, another few hours configuring.

What picture style do you all prefer and have you customized it? Always nice to get as close to what wiull be seen when editing on the camera lcd.

Have not read enough about autofocus yet, but I set mine for 5 point, back button focus and after a moment dozens of blue boxes jumping around the viewfinder. What setting do I have wrong?

Spent a few hours browsing for a new bag. I think this one will be tough. I would so like smaller than the Retrospective 7.

More to come....

apersson850 wrote in post #19474617
I noticed an issue with the R3 when using the EF 85 mm f/1.4L IS USM.
This lens requires the stabilizer mechanism to "park" before you remove it from the camera. If you don't allow this, the mechanism will rattle all the time when moving the lens around, and that's not good for it. Parking is no issue when using it on a DSLR, like the 1DX Mark II or whatever. Just let go of the shutter button, wait half a second or a second to be sure and remove the lens. It's now parked.
But not so with the R3. Since it doesn't have an optical viewfinder, it will keep the electronic viewfinder active for a while after letting half-press of the shutter button go. While this is going on the lens will not park the stabilizer!
There are three ways around this:

1. Turn the camera off completely and then you can remove the lens in good order a few seconds later.
   
2. Wait for viewfinder timeout, viewfinger goes to sleep and then you can remove the lens in good order.
   
3. Remove the lens, immediately mount it on a DSLR and remove it again. Now it's parked.
   

The last one is of course not too realistic, but it works.

Usually for lens (either EF or RF mount) with IS, I would switch the IS to OFF before turning OFF the camera and then change the lens.

rebop wrote in post #19475019
OK, another few hours configuring.

What picture style do you all prefer and have you customized it? Always nice to get as close to what wiull be seen when editing on the camera lcd.

Have not read enough about autofocus yet, but I set mine for 5 point, back button focus and after a moment dozens of blue boxes jumping around the viewfinder. What setting do I have wrong?

Spent a few hours browsing for a new bag. I think this one will be tough. I would so like smaller than the Retrospective 7.

More to come....

I've downloaded a couple of custom picture profiles that I use. I'll have to find links, because it's been so long ago.

The main profile I use for photos is called "STUDIO" and for video (when not shooting LOG) I use a custom profile called "CINEMA".
When using my camera for a webcam, I use another custom profile called "CLEAR". I have a couple more custom profiles downloaded, but since Canon only allows three of them to be loaded, I haven't used the others much.

I do wish that Canon would allow us to store/load picture profiles via the phone app. That's on my ever-growing "Canon wish-list" for features, along with the ability to save/load camera settings to the phone. I like that we can now save/load camera settings to a memory card, but unlike my phone, I may not always have the memory card with me.

Ah-keong wrote in post #19475041
Usually for lens (either EF or RF mount) with IS, I would switch the IS to OFF before turning OFF the camera and then change the lens.

That I've definitely never done. All this fiddling takes too much time, I'd say.

A really brief Instagram ‘reel' of a photographer using an R3 at 30fps.
I think it makes a good point on the utility and benefit of that frame rate:

https://www.instagram.​com/reel/CoLJE0XvqvK/

Immaculens wrote in post #19393418
I was exceedingly reluctant to move on from Lr 6.14. I really liked it and with Photoshop Elements and the NIK collection I did what was needed. Hate the subscription model. I have tried Luminar and other Lr competitors and didn't like any I have tried enough to buy. I was quite happy not only so much competition to Adobe out there - its been this year above all that I have seen the extent of photographers using that competition - and defending it in various ways as better. My concern was that Adobe - with its record breaking quarterly sales yr after yr - would get lazy with updates since there is but little competition - but competition 'seems' alive and well - and Adobe keeps improving with updates. I got the subscription, but defend anyone reluctant to join on.

Could not agree more.

OK I continue to setup, test and learn.

-I cannot get Eye Focus to work. Bounces around the screeen seemingly at random. I have to assume its because I wear glasses and varifocal lenses at that and will not add a huge viewfinder hood. Correct? Or should I continue to try to refine or....somethng I do not have set correctly?

-Next, can not find any reference to an intnternal wafer backup battery. Is there one on this camera?

One thing I learned last night that I thought extremely helpful is that some of the settings for button customization have sub menus to further configure the choices and personalize even more.

-I have tracking on off set to a button, but looking for the quickest way to get to tell the cam WHAT to track and with or without eye detection. Have not found other than adding to my menu. Is there a quicker place?

-Are most of you using OVF? If not, why not? Speed?

More questions I am sure!!!

rebop wrote in post #19475501
-I cannot get Eye Focus to work. Bounces around the screeen seemingly at random. I have to assume its because I wear glasses and varifocal lenses at that and will not add a huge viewfinder hood. Correct? Or should I continue to try to refine or....somethng I do not have set correctly?

If you have calibrated and it doesn't work, then it's not for you. I have problems with glasses on too. I take them off and adjust the diopter accordingly if I want to use it.

No, they haven't been in the more recent cameras for quite a while now.

You can use "Change to registered AF function. It will then immediately enforce the setting you have specified there. But if you want to access all the different setups, you have to go to the menu, that's correct.

I thought OVF was Optical View Finder. That I don't use, as there is none.

Thanks for all that. I had confused OVF with Display Simulation. That is the setting I wish to know te downside to.

Just finished all 87 pages here. Now have a dozen videos to watch. Still need to setup focus and network, perhaps a bit more of My Menus.