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FORUMS Canon Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon EF and EF-S Lenses 
Thread started 21 Oct 2021 (Thursday) 18:01
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Lens and tips for portrait photography

 
khwaja
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Oct 21, 2021 18:01 |  #1

Hi,
I have RP with EF 24-70mm F/4, RF 24-240mm, EF 50mm F/1.8 and EF 100mm F/2.0 lens. School asked me to take some portrait pics for some senior home coming activity. Please recommend lens and settings to use. I am thinking about using 100mm lens with F/2.8 aperture, 1/125 shutter speed and Auto ISO.

Thanks,


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Oct 21, 2021 19:47 |  #2

Activity photos at senior home with 100mm... Is it enough space to provide distance for 100mm?
I would use 24- zoom lens, f 5.6, maybe 1/125 if it is activity with motion or less if not so much motion. And try bounced flash to lower the ISO.


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gonzogolf
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Oct 21, 2021 20:05 |  #3

Fix your iso. There is really no need for floating your iso in a portrait situation. If you feel you must go auto let your shutter speed be the variable. Use the 100, 2.8. But keep in mind lighting is the most important part of any portrait session.




  
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Wilt
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Post edited 3 months ago by Wilt.
     
Oct 21, 2021 20:06 |  #4

Classic head & shoulders shot taken with 100mm lens at about 10' from subject, avoids perspective distortion caused by too-close subject distance.
Waist-up typically about 70mm from same distance.
Full length about 50mm from same distance.
Tight headshot with about 150mm from same distance.

If posed shots, try to avoid getting the full back of hand in shots. Get edges of hand. Most folks do not have terrific appearing hands...hand models are few!
Avoid the thin-DOF, you're shooting a portrait, not shooting for yourself (amateurs so enamored of razor thin DOF...clients wonder why they are out of focus in shots!)


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khwaja
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Oct 22, 2021 16:35 |  #5

Thanks for all the information. I also have 70-200 f/2.8 is 1 lens. Photo shooting might be inside a outdoor stadium with flood lights. Can you please recommend me some lighting equipement. I have a some yongngo flash.


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Wilt
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Oct 22, 2021 17:44 |  #6

My definition of 'portrait' is different from what you sound to be doing, in a stadium!

A single on-camera flash is NOT a 'portrait'...on-camera serves only as Fill, and an off-camera more intense light serves as Main. Not going to be able turn you into a 'portrait shooter' only by telling you what gear to get.


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gonzogolf
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Oct 22, 2021 18:51 |  #7

khwaja wrote in post #19297995 (external link)
Thanks for all the information. I also have 70-200 f/2.8 is 1 lens. Photo shooting might be inside a outdoor stadium with flood lights. Can you please recommend me some lighting equipement. I have a some yongngo flash.

Flood lights in a stadium are unlikely to be flattering, especially ecially if the floodlights are sodium vapor or some other type of light that doesn't provide a full color spectrum. Your best bet would be to watch YouTube videos on off camera flash. Watch all you can as you might find one presenter breaks through more than another. I hope we haven't discouraged you but good portraits are more complicated than they seem.




  
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khwaja
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Oct 22, 2021 23:36 |  #8

Thanks for all the information. I tried few times with remote flash shooting. But that was with crop camera which can fire remote flash using its on camera flash. Canon RP, doesn't have on camera flash. I need to get something to fire slave flash.

Regarding flash, we are taking pics in outdoor stadium. There won't be any wall to fire off. Do I need to get some flash diffuser or something?

I am also thinking about selling 24-70 f/4 and get 24-105 f/4 rf lens. Can 24-240mm do the portrait job. It might be a stop slower than f/4 lens though.

Thanks


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gonzogolf
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Oct 23, 2021 06:27 |  #9

khwaja wrote in post #19298090 (external link)
Thanks for all the information. I tried few times with remote flash shooting. But that was with crop camera which can fire remote flash using its on camera flash. Canon RP, doesn't have on camera flash. I need to get something to fire slave flash.

Regarding flash, we are taking pics in outdoor stadium. There won't be any wall to fire off. Do I need to get some flash diffuser or something?

I am also thinking about selling 24-70 f/4 and get 24-105 f/4 rf lens. Can 24-240mm do the portrait job. It might be a stop slower than f/4 lens though.

Thanks

Generally you want a shallow depth of field for a portrait. The goal is to eliminate as much clutter as possible so that the viewers eye is drawn to the subject. This is doubly true for places like a stadium where there are lots of details in the background. My advice would be to use the 100 2.8 or 70-200 wide open for single subjects, that allows for background blur with just enough detail in the background to provide context.

As for your flash, yes you will need a trigger, look for a YN trigger to match your flash. You'll probably want an umbrella, stand, and bracket. Lastly I reiterate the need to get some idea of how this works by watching video tutorials. Lighting isn't difficult but you can make a mess of it if you don't know where to place the lights and why.




  
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Oct 23, 2021 08:56 |  #10

gonzogolf wrote in post #19298150 (external link)
Lighting isn't difficult....

Off-camera lighting is VERY DIFFICULT for beginners. Viewing YouTube videos on the subject will quickly get you into guide numbers vs watt-seconds, different kinds of triggers, soft box vs umbrella vs beauty dish, reflectors, HSS advantages and disadvantages, ambient light control, color temp of the flash, multi-flash setups, figuring out strange terminology, and more.

It still isn't very clear what khwaja's shooting situation will be or what kinds of likenesses need to be delivered. But one solution is on-camera flash, which khwaja already has. No need to spend hundreds of dollars and no need to learn new things. On-camera flash is simple, bright, dependable, and gives nice contrasty results. Keep it simple.


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khwaja
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Post edited 3 months ago by khwaja.
     
Oct 23, 2021 11:11 |  #11

Hi,
We will be taking pictures outside in the stadium (as for my understanding). I can mount the yongnuo flash on Camera. I can set the lens to 100mm, F/2.8 and auto ISO, let Camera do the flash exposure with ETTL rigth? There won't be any wall to reflect the light. I have seen photographers using difusor or box (small white box attached to on camera flash) like this,

https://www.amazon.com …7T812Y9S&ts_id=​3109909011 (external link)

For off camera flash, looks like i need lot of stuff to get i.e., umbrella, stand, box and triggers.

Thanks


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Oct 23, 2021 11:53 |  #12

khwaja wrote in post #19298257 (external link)
Hi,
We will be taking pictures outside in the stadium (as for my understanding). I can mount the yongnuo flash on Camera. I can set the lens to 100mm, F/2.8 and auto ISO, let Camera do the flash exposure with ETTL rigth? There won't be any wall to reflect the light. I have seen photographers using difusor or box (small white box attached to on camera flash) like this,

https://www.amazon.com …7T812Y9S&ts_id=​3109909011 (external link)

For off camera flash, looks like i need lot of stuff to get i.e., umbrella, stand, box and triggers.

Thanks

Will the subjects be sitting down for the photos, in a suitable place? Or will you photograph them as they are standing and moving around? Do they want full length or head and shoulders? These things can make a big difference to how you do the work.

With the 100mm, you might be fairly far from the subjects. You should try some tests to check what the distance will be. You might have to shout at them to communicate.

A diffuser like that will give slightly better light, but will reduce the brightness. But that might be ok. You should do tests. The closer the light is to the subject, the brighter and softer the light. But when you are close, you might have light falloff problems.


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Wilt
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Post edited 3 months ago by Wilt. (8 edits in all)
     
Oct 23, 2021 12:50 |  #13

Archibald wrote in post #19298278 (external link)
Will the subjects be sitting down for the photos, in a suitable place? Or will you photograph them as they are standing and moving around? Do they want full length or head and shoulders? These things can make a big difference to how you do the work.

With the 100mm, you might be fairly far from the subjects. You should try some tests to check what the distance will be. You might have to shout at them to communicate.

A diffuser like that will give slightly better light, but will reduce the brightness. But that might be ok. You should do tests. The closer the light is to the subject, the brighter and softer the light. But when you are close, you might have light falloff problems.

As I stated earlier, "Classic head & shoulders shot taken with 100mm lens at about 10' from subject, avoids perspective distortion caused by too-close subject distance."
If trying to shoot full length with 100mm, That needs more like 19-20' distance to get about 7' of height into the shot into a FF sensor.

It is better to suit FL selection to framing, rather than alter your shooting distance...keepi yourself about 10' away from the subjects. Leave the longer distance stuff to the fashion shooters or the candid shooters who are too shy to approach their subjects on the street. It is harder to keep people from walking into the space between you and the subject when you are 10' than when you are 20', as well!

The issue of 'light falloff' is worse when the subject lighting is CLOSE.

  • If subject is 4' from the light, things which are 8' from light (4' behind subject) are illuminated -2EV dimmer
  • If subject is 8' from the light, things which are 12' from light (4' behind subject) are illuminated about -1.2EV dimmer
  • If subject is 16' from the light, things which are 20' from light (4' behind subject) are illuminated -0.66EV dimmer


So you can use this to advantage if the background is somewhat cluttered and distracting...you want more falloff to help reduce the distraction.
OTOH, if the background helps set the scene, to show location of the event, you want less falloff so the background is captured somewhat subdued compared to your subject, but not dark.

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Oct 23, 2021 14:03 |  #14

Wilt, agreed.

khwaja needs to do some tests. Do some tests or you won't understand what we are telling you.


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khwaja
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Post edited 3 months ago by khwaja. (2 edits in all)
     
Oct 23, 2021 18:28 as a reply to  @ Archibald's post |  #15

Thanks for all the information. I am checking with volunteer head to understand shooting conditions (indoor vs outdoor). My understanding is, we have to take pictures during half time of football game under flood lights. I am going to test to make sure 100mm and 70-200mm f/2.8 IS 1 lens are focusing with eye tracking in sing-shot mode. Other lens are working fine (24-70mm f/4, RF 24-240mm, EF 50mm 1.8). I am also thinking of buying RF 24-105mm f/4 lens and seLL 24-70mm f/4 lens. But it is a long term goal.

Regarding using flash, i can mount it on Camera and experiment with setting to make sure enough light hits the subject. But i need help with buying some diffuser to attach to flash as there is nothing to bounce off. Buying stand, box and other equipment, I can plan to buy them later if they ask me to shoot more in future.

Thanks


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