mcoren wrote in post #19302135
Another factor to consider, since you mentioned a "polaroid": polarizing filters in the Canon AE-1 days were known as "linear" polarizers. These worked fine with manual cameras like the AE-1, but they caused problems with autofocus cameras. I forget whether it was the autofocus or the exposure system that had problems, but you should be aware of this before using this old filter on your 4000D. It won't damage anything, but your images won't look like you expect them to. For modern autofocus cameras, you need what is called a "circular" polarizer.
It's the AF that may be affected. The problem is that a portion of the light from the centre of the frame passes through a semi-silvered section of the reflex mirror, on to the AF Sub mirror, and then down to the floor of the mirror box where the actual AF sensors lie. Linearly polarised light doesn't always play will with the semi-silvered portion of the reflex mirror. At least that is my understanding of the situation
Saying that I have used a linear polariser on an 18-55 USM with a 300D, back in 2005, and I found no issues with getting it to focus correctly. I already had the filter and needed to remove the reflections from some faulty paint surfaces on an almost new Land Rover Defender 90 van. The aluminium body panels were less than a year old, and already suffering from galvanic corrosion from the steel pop rivets they used to "nail" it together. These were photos taken at the long end of the focal length, and very close to MFD, if that might make some difference to the outcome.
I was using Cokin square filter holders back in the day, so a 58mm ring was cheap enough to make use of the filters I had practical. If I already have a linear polariser, well I would try it, being very sure to be keeping a close eye on the AF performance. If it caused issues, then I would make sure that any new polarising filter I acquired was of the circular kind. One other thing to remember is that old polarising filters, especially cheap ones can be pretty low quality optically. Saying that so can chap CP filters too. In the sixteen years that I have been shooting with DSLR's I think the only filters that I have really needed, that can't be done in post, are graduated ND and CPL. Although I do want some straight ND filters for my Sigma 150-600, as I often want to shoot at speeds of less than 1/60s, which with a minimum of ISO 100 can mean needing to shoot at ƒ/22 or smaller, not something that is really recommended. Shame I can't find a 95m two/three stop ND filter for less than £200 that is actually available here in the UK.
Alan