filters for evaluating images displayed on monitor?

When I was running the color darkroom on the USS Independence CV-62 in the mid 70's we had a set of filters, Kodak, for evaluating the color and color casts of prints. Is there anything like that available today? I will search Ebay for the original Kodaks but wonder if there is anything made to evaluate the color cast on monitors?

I use a Spyder to calibrate my monitors but in some of my astronomy imaging and in some terrestrial images I can get a color cast that I don't see when I am working them.

Jeff USN Photog 72-76 wrote in post #19308271
When I was running the color darkroom on the USS Independence CV-62 in the mid 70's we had a set of filters, Kodak, for evaluating the color and color casts of prints. Is there anything like that available today? I will search Ebay for the original Kodaks but wonder if there is anything made to evaluate the color cast on monitors?

I use a Spyder to calibrate my monitors but in some of my astronomy imaging and in some terrestrial images I can get a color cast that I don't see when I am working them.

Jeff, you're bringing back fond memories of my Navy days, August 1965 to sometime in 1973.

Anyway, in reply to your question the filters exist on eBay but are pretty pricy. See https://www.ebay.com …ewing+Filter+Ki​t&_sacat=0

Based on what I see on Amazon, there might also be some used book stores that might have a set. https://www.amazon.com …wing-Filter/dp/0879857919

Jeff USN Photog 72-76 wrote in post #19308271
When I was running the color darkroom on the USS Independence CV-62 in the mid 70's we had a set of filters, Kodak, for evaluating the color and color casts of prints. Is there anything like that available today? I will search Ebay for the original Kodaks but wonder if there is anything made to evaluate the color cast on monitors?

I use a Spyder to calibrate my monitors but in some of my astronomy imaging and in some terrestrial images I can get a color cast that I don't see when I am working them.

When you see the color cast, is that in printed media or in particular software (i.e PhotoViewer, particular web browser, etc)?

Snydremark wrote in post #19308354
When you see the color cast, is that in printed media or in particular software (i.e PhotoViewer, particular web browser, etc)?

on my color balanced monitor and when submitting to a club contest.

Also some of my astro shots have a color cast and I am trying to decide what slider to adjust

Jeff USN Photog 72-76 wrote in post #19308417
on my color balanced monitor and when submitting to a club contest.

Also some of my astro shots have a color cast and I am trying to decide what slider to adjust

Right; you say you don't see the cast when working the files, only when viewing them afterwards, correct? That would indicate, to my mind, some different options:
- You are viewing the output files in software that is different than your editing software and that software is not (properly) color managed or is not using the same color profile you use for editing
- Your output process is applying some level of auto adjustment/compensatio​n that you are not anticipating
- Your output files are using a different color space and the output method is compressing your colors in a strange and unpleasant way to adjust for your edits

Have you checked the problem results against a "3rd party" system? Like had a friend look at the same output file and verify that they see what you do in viewing?

I haven't noted before which software you're editing in; but, I know that Lightroom, PS and some of the others offer some level of 'soft proofing' functionality, which *may* be what you're looking for? I'm not sure whether it would address the root issue you're working on here, though.

Not sure of this is on the right track but here's my 2 cents. I never liked Spyder. I picked up i1Display Pro and never looked back. This was many years ago and companies do FW updates, etc so I have no knowledge of current Spyder capabilities.

I haven't had the color cast on nature images except one and I could see it. Where I am getting them is in my deep sky astro photos, often have a problem with very faint purple or green casts to the nebulosity or the stars.

For Nature I use Lightroom Classic and Photoshop CC and have no problem with the birds or anything, once I did get a green cast on a bee but I could see it afterwards. With my eyes, bad cataracts and floaters it is hard to focus the images on the screen I really have to work at it.

The problem is with galaxies, nebulas, and star clusters, it is hard to balance the colors using Pixinsight histogram and even with LR as I move the green it goes the other way and I keep bouncing around. In the old days I would use a couple of filters and flip them in and out.

My process for processing deep sky is Pixinsight -> Lightroom -> Photoshop -> AI Denoise -> save out of Lightroom

for my solar images which are easy: Autostakkert - Registax6 - Photoshop - AI Denoise - save out of Photoshop

For Black and White I will use Silver EFX Pro first and it I don't like the result will work it in Lightroom.

For sure calibrate your process, but afterwards there is still opportunity for improving the color balance on an aesthetic level. How about this - create a macro that generates several color correction layers like those viewing filters, and which turns them all off. Then individually turn them on to see the effect on the image. This would also be useful for those who can’t see color that well yet or don’t know color theory. So maybe +5 R,G,B,C,M,Y each.

John from PA wrote in post #19308330

Jeff USN Photog 72-76 wrote in post #19308271
When I was running the color darkroom on the USS Independence CV-62 in the mid 70's we had a set of filters, Kodak, for evaluating the color and color casts of prints. Is there anything like that available today? I will search Ebay for the original Kodaks but wonder if there is anything made to evaluate the color cast on monitors?

I use a Spyder to calibrate my monitors but in some of my astronomy imaging and in some terrestrial images I can get a color cast that I don't see when I am working them.

Jeff, you're bringing back fond memories of my Navy days, August 1965 to sometime in 1973.

Anyway, in reply to your question the filters exist on eBay but are pretty pricy. See https://www.ebay.com …ewing+Filter+Ki​t&_sacat=0

Based on what I see on Amazon, there might also be some used book stores that might have a set. https://www.amazon.com …wing-Filter/dp/0879857919

Wow. $140? I’d sell my set for a lot less than that.

Probably a real long shot here, but is the color cast on the stars on the edges? I'm sort of thinking chromatic aberation, easily fixed in lightroom.

sometimes it is on the edges and that can be that I am using 4 different filter and combining the 4 different images into one, often the red filter will give a slightly softer image that will bleed out, I combine them in Pixinsight and do the finish work on the combined image in Lightroom.
How does LR fix the "bleeding" or CA?

Here is an image of Caldwell 79 taken with the 14" Celestron Schmidt Cassegrain Telescope in Chile. it is 32 images combined a total of about 25 minute exposures.

To me it has a bit of a purple cast to it. This is straight out of Pixinsight, I will now try to adjust it in LR

so I tried it in LR, I think it is less purple and more to the blue

This is where I miss the ability to flip filters across my vision, I could hold up to 4 filters at once but usually two and quickly move them in and out and see how the color changed

Yeah; I could see how those would be useful for film...I don't think they'd work for electronic media though. ??

The example looks like a great, clear image image to me. I *think* what you're referring to must be the kind of bluish hue in the center of the cluster; in which case, I believe that is simply an artifact of having so many lights clustered together and not something that would edit out without wrecking the image itself.

Curious, I brought in the larger image JPG into LR, and interrogated the black 'deep space' areas in the pattern of a cross, to see if there is a change of tint across the image that somehow crept into the shot.
All across, and up/down, I detected values mostly of 0.1 for R or G or B...no tint or change of tint across the photo.