Is it worth buying the canon oem batteries?

I figure once the battery stops working the way I want it, it goes into a recycle container and I pick up more. I don't care about the number of shots the battery took, or its performance level or anything like that, which are the only two "perks" of the registration process.

TeamSpeed wrote in post #19346254
I figure once the battery stops working the way I want it, it goes into a recycle container and I pick up more. I don't care about the number of shots the battery took, or its performance level or anything like that, which are the only two "perks" of the registration process.

My camera has no registration process. I do not care about battery age, apart from knowing the date of purchase so I know when its capacity is less than 'full capacity' so I write the date on it with an indelible pen...if I take a newer battery, I know it will last me for a day; an older battery better be accompanied by a spare.

John from PA wrote in post #19346053
I register all of mine and also etch on the battery the purchase date.

My Canon batteries all come with a date on them, I assume the date of manufacture.

I have used the knockoffs. They are OK, and have way more mAh per dollar spent, so are definitely the best choice if you are on a budget. But performance can be variable and in my experience the Canons last longer.

Wilt wrote in post #19346255
My camera has no registration process. I do not care about battery age, apart from knowing the date of purchase so I know when its capacity is less than 'full capacity' so I write the date on it with an indelible pen...if I take a newer battery, I know it will last me for a day; an older battery better be accompanied by a spare.

This registration process dates back to 2009 on the 7d. Assuming you still have a 7d2, you might want to check your manual again.

I've only been doing digital for a couple of years. When I first started, I read about battery registration and somehow got the impression that if you set it up right it would keep a cumulative shutter count. Pretty cool. Too much other stuff to learn at the time so I never thought about it again until this thread.

I misunderstood. Registration has no effect on the shutter count. Apparently, registration just stamps the charge level the last time the battery went on a charger. Much less helpful than a cumulative shutter count.

TeamSpeed wrote in post #19346362
This registration process dates back to 2009 on the 7d. Assuming you still have a 7d2, you might want to check your manual again.

I actually was referring to the EOS 40D which I still own. Yes, the 7DII has registration process documented, although I have never actually made use of it, as I do not perceive for myself any real added value resulting from bothering to use it.

Wilt wrote in post #19346545
I actually was referring to the EOS 40D which I still own.

Doesn’t surprise me that the 40D doesn’t have a battery registration feature. That camera came out in August 2007. As I recall it also had a separate battery to maintain clock and settings. If that battery died you probably would have lost all the info.

John from PA wrote in post #19346577
Doesn’t surprise me that the 40D doesn’t have a battery registration feature. That camera came out in August 2007. As I recall it also had a separate battery to maintain clock and settings. If that battery died you probably would have lost all the info.

The 40D uses a CR2016 lithium battery for the RTC, and it is replaced every 5 years, according to the user manual, but I simply do not recall having done that....and it should have been done 2 times by now...(assuming 2008 purchase) 2013, 2018. Is that an indication of old age memory loss?!

I have no problem using aftermarket batteries although there can be some quirkyness with them. On my older 5D4 I would get an error message when I inserted an aftermarket battery. The camera would still work but it always bothered me. My newer 5D4 would not have this happen even though they both had the same version firmware. Same model charger for both cameras. On my 1DX II my aftermarket battery never shows maximum recharge performance after being fully charged. The Canon batteries do show maximum. The aftermarket battery specs state it offers more power than the Canon battery. The bottom line is I will always use the Canon batteries first and the others as backup.

i-G12 wrote in post #19346048
I never even knew there was a battery registration.

Do most people register their batteries?

In 12 years, I have registered exactly.....zero batteries.

Dear all

Thanks for all the useful info.

I'm not going to worry about registering batteries any more.

If the reg process works = fine. If not = equally fine.

Either way: I'm taking the advice of a former colleague and simply making a note in my log book when I change batteries. If they don't seem to be lasting as long as expected I can simply check the number of shots / flashes.

So let's all move on – and once again many thanks.

Bye

Ken

I just bought a pair of Wasabi LPE6-JWP batteries, advertised as 2600 mAh, from the Wasabi website. They arrived WAY ahead of the prediction.

Out of the box they had 50% charge according to the Canon charger. I didn't time how long it took to get to 100% but it wasn't that long.

They came with covers which had the indicator cutout, but there was no marking on the label that made the cutout useful. I took some red and green marker and colored the areas that would be shown depending on how the cover was installed. The lower battery is my existing Vivitar battery with the cover on it; the second Wasabi is staying in the box for now.

Frodge wrote in post #19328802
.
Is it worth buying the canon oem batteries?. What do you folks think? Opinions and real world feedback.
.

.
It is very much worth paying the higher prices for the original Canon batteries when they're the big LP-E4, LP-E19, etc. batteries that are used in the 1D series. . These batteries are complex, and the two 3rd party ones I've used have caused issues with my chargers and my cameras.

Not at all worth buying the original Canon batteries when they're the little things that are used in the 5D series, the 6D series, and the 20D / 30D / 40D / 50D / 60D / 70D / 80D / 90D cameras. . For all of those little batteries, all of the 3rd party ones I've used have worked just as well and lasted just as long as the original Canon batteries.


.

In my experience Canon and 3rd party are fairly similar in performance initially but long term life is significantly better on the Canon batteries. As a result I buy Canon batteries if available.

The 1D series batteries aren't really any more complex than the LP-E6 batteries, for example. They just have 3 18650 cells in them, the LP-E6 has 2 18500 cells in them, both having a battery management system board (BMS) on it. These cells are the most common and found in just about every battery you can think of, from yard tools, to laptop batteries, and even in EV vehicles.

Back in the day Phottix Titans were the 3rd party LP-E4s that were out there and they worked great. Not sure what happened to the Phottix brand over the years though.


LPE6
https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/​igi/GDVeRTgiXchYBBN6.f​ull

LPE4
https://royreddy.files​.wordpress.com/2015/04​/img_0118.jpg


To put perspective on complexity, a more complex battery is what is in the EGO line of tools (which I have torn apart and rebuilt), or at a lesser scale, the Milwaukee M18 battery systems, of which I have built new battery packs for, simply due to the number of cell series vs parallel groups, each series needing their own monitor line to the BMS. Here is an EGO battery I have personally pulled part and tried to rebuild. Something like 13 or more monitor lines to run to the dual BMS system (which is what ends up going bad, not the cells, but the BMS board). Trying to weld batteries to each other is a long and tedious process too.

https://egopowerplus.c​o.uk …loded%20Battery​-min_3.png