Anyone use a kayak or canoe for your wildlife photography?

Clough wrote in post #19385854
Ya it’s pretty sweet I’d like to upgrade to peddle and or add trolling motor but we will see. Once I get it down out of storage I’ll have a look and see if my 90d would fit with lens, I currently have it converted to hold a fish finder and battery

Even if it would hold a second lens, with some padding. I could see a 70-300 or 100-400 on the camera with the Rf 800 in the storage console for extra reach...?

That would be an ideal set up, I have a 100-400 with extender and it wouldn’t fit forsure, I’m not sure on a 800mm tho I’ve only seen one in real life haha, I’ll have a look at the dimensions and measure it tonight to see if I get around to it

A couple ideas for holding your camera

Clough wrote in post #19386214
That would be an ideal set up, I have a 100-400 with extender and it wouldn’t fit forsure, I’m not sure on a 800mm tho I’ve only seen one in real life haha, I’ll have a look at the dimensions and measure it tonight to see if I get around to it

I will measure my RF 800 when I am back at home but it looks like they are 14 inches long, when collapsed.

duckster wrote in post #19386282
I will measure my RF 800 when I am back at home but it looks like they are 14 inches long, when collapsed.

11.5in collapsed with hood reversed
15in collapsed with hood mounted
17.5in extended to shooting position

All measurements without camera body attached.

That sounds right, 14 inches collapsed seemed too long.

Has anyone on this thread used or attempted to use one of the pedal-powered kayaks that are out there these days? Like Hobie or Wilderness? They're far from budget-friendly, but they *appear* as if they could be fairly useful; but, without trying one directly, they could just as easily be nothing but gimmick.

Examples:
https://www.oldtowncan​oe.com/predator
https://www.hobie.com/​kayaks/

Mostly interested in/questioning the pedal systems themselves...if they're truly workable, I can sort out which attached hulls would be best for me.

I like the idea of the pedal for keeping hands free. I wonder if you lose some shallow water ability due to the propulsion system under the hull

duckster wrote in post #19386367
I like the idea of the pedal for keeping hands free. I wonder if you lose some shallow water ability due to the propulsion system under the hull

They offer either an "impact fold" system or the ability to manually pull the props up flat against the hull go "zero draft". If you were in shallow enough water, you'd still need a paddle on hand to get out, or go wading

duckster wrote in post #19386367
I like the idea of the pedal for keeping hands free. I wonder if you lose some shallow water ability due to the propulsion system under the hull

I seen Kayaks with electric motors in the rear

Heya,

I thought about moving to the pedal propelled types. But I didn't because at the end of the day I don't need forward motion I usually would need steering. Neither provide that, so I stick with traditional sit on top and use my legs when needed to change direction. Or I park and hope off the kayak, I use a long pole to dig it into the ground in place and jump off no matter if I'm near shore or not, mostly in the ocean even (the salt flats and keys). These days if I was going to get a new one, I would get one of those large paddle boards you can stand up on. Very stable. The ability to stand is not understated at all.

I like to use a water sealed bag/pouch that can fit a 600mm between my legs. I also like to use water sealed "ammo boxes" class cases. They're slim and have good volume for something as big as a 300mm and various other things and will float if it's overboard.

And I like to take a wide field option too of course, usually a gopro or a small mirrorless for wide field of view.

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MalVeauX wrote in post #19386907
Heya,

I thought about moving to the pedal propelled types. But I didn't because at the end of the day I don't need forward motion I usually would need steering. ...

Totally makes sense; that is what caught my eye with the latest generations of these. And is what I'm curious about. The current systems are *supposed to* allow for, basically, zero radius turning and a lot of maneuverability....but​, I have only been able to see this in promo videos that don't really show or explain "how" the steering works. So, I remain skeptical. At some point this summer I intend to find one or more rentals from the local REI, etc in order to test 'em out for myself; but, I figured I could also try sourcing the community here to see if anyone else had done so already.

Thanks All!

PS: One of the manufacturers actually makes a SUP that can be outfitted with a seat and pedal system, which is what originally caught my eyeballs.

Snydremark wrote in post #19386419
They offer either an "impact fold" system or the ability to manually pull the props up flat against the hull go "zero draft". If you were in shallow enough water, you'd still need a paddle on hand to get out, or go wading

Sorry took a bit to get back to you, the center console probably wouldn’t fit an Rf 800, the opening on top is smaller then the collapsed length. But the widest part is 11-3/4” , be a really tight fit unfortunately

Thanks for that information.

I have a Hobie pro angler I use primarily for fishing. It's a tank when fully rigged, but it is the most stable kayak I've ever used. Stable to the point of being able to stand up to cast, turn in a circle, walk to the bow, etc. (of course now I'll probably flip it next time I go out ) They are pricey, in the $4-5k range, but it is actually one of the best investments I've made into my own leisure. It opens up a whole new world in ways that are not possible with a boat.

I've taken some gear with me on occasion if I'm going to be in an interesting area, but I would be slightly hesitant to do so in the average sit-inside kayak out of fear of sending the equipment to the bottom of the water. That's not to say you can't or shouldn't, it just depends on your comfort level.

What I would recommend, regardless of the kayak, is to have a dry bag large enough to fit all the electronics, and another dry bag that will fit the camera/lens combo by itself. The camera/lens goes into it's designated bag when I'm not actively taking pictures, and the other bag only gets opened if I need to change lenses or batteries. This minimizes the opening/closing of the large bag and the risk of potential disaster. Also, I would have the camera tethered to something other than your neck via the strap, and particularly so if you are in any type of current. Lastly, I consider a some method of anchoring an absolute must. A 3lb grapnel anchor will keep you in place under most conditions and allow you to sit and wait for the wildlife.