-= Canon EOS R7 owners unite! Post photos and discuss.

John Sheehy wrote in post #19427143
Auto-ISO is a completely different beast depending on other settings. It would never prefer a specific ISO setting in M mode; you would simply have total freedom over the range from ISO 100 to whatever the max is for, or getting stuck at those two extremes. When you start automating other things, then the camera may have its own taste in exposure, or follow your set rules, and could possibly result in one ISO more often than others.

Any ideas that people had of auto-ISO that they got from auto-ISO in full-auto, P, Av, or Tv mode need to be forgotten for M mode. In M mode, it never affects absolute exposure like it can when the camera also automates another parameter. In M mode, the only way auto-ISO can cause extra noise in M is if you use a negative "EC" biased towards a darker image at a lower ISO), which can increase some parts of the read noise, but that varies noise less than getting less absolute exposure does.

I don't really think about ISOs much when I am shooting, because I know that my choice of shutter speed is usually the only major variable in noise when I am already as close as I can get to a subject with a given lens.

AntonLargiader wrote in post #19427155
On the 7D2 I use auto-ISO almost exclusively, in M. Yes it does tend to float to 6400 (my upper limit) but that's by design; I'm maximizing my shutter speed to push it up there but also allow it to compensate for brighter areas of the gym or field. If it wasn't pushing 6400 most of the time I'd often react by going faster on the shutter, as I usually have a shutter speed that I feel is too slow. Not the case in daylight, but daylight is sort of an occasional luxury for me. Dark gyms and field lights are more common.

Unless I am trying to deliberately over- or under-expose a scene, which I practically never do, I just let the camera work it out with auto-ISO. With RAWs I have enough range to correct as needed in post.

Good information, and interesting stance on the subject. Thank you, both !

jamganz wrote in post #19427171
I shoot mainly in M mode and find that whenever i 'experiment' with Auto ISO that I am never happy with the results. I know it is useful if going from Shady to well lit areas but, even then I find that I may want to underexpose a shot a but due to lighting. I usually just play around with the settings a bit to get an acceptable shutter speed and manageable ISO. Topaz Denoise and Sharpen are helpful tools in post.

Thank you for commenting on the Auto ISO subject.

Sorry if this is just a rehash of what others have already said, but I find I can only use auto ISO in M mode. If I use it in Tv or Av, the R7 always picks a high ISO in order to use a wide aperture or fast shutter.

Archibald wrote in post #19424326
Paper Wasp with a backpack - a drop of water. R7, RF100mm.

Gallery photo (hosted):
posted by Archibald originally in forum: Macro

Quick question on this lens; can you FTMF with this lens with the switch ok n AF mode?

Lester Wareham wrote in post #19427199
Quick question on this lens; can you FTMF with this lens with the switch ok n AF mode?

Unfortunately, the RF100/2.8L Macro does not have full-time override; you have to take AF away from the shutter button, or assign a button to disable AF. You can do something with "One Shot", also, as Levina has mentioned a few times, but that isn't particularly flexible.

John Sheehy wrote in post #19427143
Auto-ISO is a completely different beast depending on other settings. It would never prefer a specific ISO setting in M mode; you would simply have total freedom over the range from ISO 100 to whatever the max is for, or getting stuck at those two extremes. When you start automating other things, then the camera may have its own taste in exposure, or follow your set rules, and could possibly result in one ISO more often than others.

Any ideas that people had of auto-ISO that they got from auto-ISO in full-auto, P, Av, or Tv mode need to be forgotten for M mode. In M mode, it never affects absolute exposure like it can when the camera also automates another parameter. In M mode, the only way auto-ISO can cause extra noise in M is if you use a negative "EC" biased towards a darker image at a lower ISO), which can increase some parts of the read noise, but that varies noise less than getting less absolute exposure does.

I don't really think about ISOs much when I am shooting, because I know that my choice of shutter speed is usually the only major variable in noise when I am already as close as I can get to a subject with a given lens.

Aside from the read noise thing, this is correct. Read noise is a very small issue in modern sensors.

AntonLargiader wrote in post #19427155
On the 7D2 I use auto-ISO almost exclusively, in M. Yes it does tend to float to 6400 (my upper limit) but that's by design; I'm maximizing my shutter speed to push it up there but also allow it to compensate for brighter areas of the gym or field. If it wasn't pushing 6400 most of the time I'd often react by going faster on the shutter, as I usually have a shutter speed that I feel is too slow. Not the case in daylight, but daylight is sort of an occasional luxury for me. Dark gyms and field lights are more common.

Unless I am trying to deliberately over- or under-expose a scene, which I practically never do, I just let the camera work it out with auto-ISO. With RAWs I have enough range to correct as needed in post.

That's how it works for me. While flying small planes, I try to remember make setting of of 1/640, f8 , and auto ISO and it works well. I used a 50-500 telephoto and try to reduce blurring if I get the lens slightly into the slipstream. My max !SO is 16000.

mcoren wrote in post #19427185
Sorry if this is just a rehash of what others have already said, but I find I can only use auto ISO in M mode. If I use it in Tv or Av, the R7 always picks a high ISO in order to use a wide aperture or fast shutter.

Do you mean to type "wide aperture"? It should raise the ISO for small apertures, as the sensor is getting less light.

The camera will choose the highest ISO when light is limited. If the highest allowable ISO is set to 6400, it will seem to be stuck there.

I, John Sheehy wrote in post #19427217
Unfortunately, the RF100/2.8L Macro does not have full-time override; you have to take AF away from the shutter button, or assign a button to disable AF. You can do something with "One Shot", also, as Levina has mentioned a few times, but that isn't particularly flexible.

I just remembered what the specific limitation of the "One Shot" (should be "one locked focus") approach was; the camera has to focus first, before you can override, so it can't help when the camera doesn't try to focus.

John Sheehy wrote in post #19427217
Unfortunately, the RF100/2.8L Macro does not have full-time override; you have to take AF away from the shutter button, or assign a button to disable AF. You can do something with "One Shot", also, as Levina has mentioned a few times, but that isn't particularly flexible.

Shutter button AF is something I disable on all new cameras.

I note Canon do not list the RF 100 Macro as having electronic FTMF but do include the 100-500.

It is not clear to me if the RF 100 macro (or indeed all RF lenses) are electronic MF.

This is symantics issue with the grammar of the Canon info.

https://cam.start.cano​n/en/H001/supplement_0​060.html

Capn Jack wrote in post #19427222
Do you mean to type "wide aperture"? It should raise the ISO for small apertures, as the sensor is getting less light.

Yes, I mistyped that. To be honest, I rarely use Tv so I was extrapolating my experience with Av. Serves me right!

Lester Wareham wrote in post #19427235
Shutter button AF is something I disable on all new cameras.

I note Canon do not list the RF 100 Macro as having electronic FTMF but do include the 100-500.

It is not clear to me if the RF 100 macro (or indeed all RF lenses) are electronic MF.

This is symantics issue with the grammar of the Canon info.

https://cam.start.cano​n/en/H001/supplement_0​060.html

Reading up it seems all RF lenses are electronic MF - so it seems the RF 100 macro does not have FTMF which is a real shame.

Capn Jack wrote in post #19427222
Aside from the read noise thing, this is correct. Read noise is a very small issue in modern sensors.

That's how it works for me. While flying small planes, I try to remember make setting of of 1/640, f8 , and auto ISO and it works well. I used a 50-500 telephoto and try to reduce blurring if I get the lens slightly into the slipstream. My max !SO is 16000.

Do you mean to type "wide aperture"? It should raise the ISO for small apertures, as the sensor is getting less light.

The camera will choose the highest ISO when light is limited. If the highest allowable ISO is set to 6400, it will seem to be stuck there.

Aha ! .... I've even learned more about the idiosyncrasies of Auto ISO. Thank you.

jamganz wrote in post #19427171
I shoot mainly in M mode and find that whenever i 'experiment' with Auto ISO that I am never happy with the results. I know it is useful if going from Shady to well lit areas but, even then I find that I may want to underexpose a shot a but due to lighting. I usually just play around with the settings a bit to get an acceptable shutter speed and manageable ISO. Topaz Denoise and Sharpen are helpful tools in post.

This tends to be my experience too (I only shoot in M Manual mode). I keep wanting to use AutoISo but it doesn't do what I want it to do much of the time!!! Maybe it's operator error (this experience is with current R5 and also when I had 5DIV, 6D, 7DII's also)

Would it be considered manual mode if I almost always use C1 or C2 that I have set to 1/2000 and f/5.6 auto ISO for birds and just adjust the TV and AV as I need

Jeff USN Photog 72-76 wrote in post #19427373
Would it be considered manual mode if I almost always use C1 or C2 that I have set to 1/2000 and f/5.6 auto ISO for birds and just adjust the TV and AV as I need

Those custom modes are a whole other topic. But basically if you are in Tv or Av, regardless of how you got there, you are not in manual. Manual means YOU set the shutter and aperture and not the camera. If we have it on auto ISO, then it isn't really all manual, is it? But we still call it manual but with auto ISO.

The custom modes frustrate me. My wish is that if I suddenly see a shooting opportunity, like a BIF, then I should be able to dial to a custom mode so the camera immediately adopts the appropriate settings, for instance 1/2000, f/5.6, auto ISO, and continuous shooting. The only way to do that is to set "Auto update" under Custom shooting mode to Disable.

But if you are set to Disable, then changes are not retained when the camera goes to sleep. Say you have enough light and want wingtips of the BIF in focus, so you change the f/5.6 to f/9. Camera goes to sleep between BIFs and when the next one comes, you shoot away, but the R7 has gone back to f/5.6.

Fine, so you change the option to Enable. Now when you make changes to the settings, the changes stick. Change f/5.6 to f/9 and it stays at f/9. But this option has its own perils. If you see a katydid in the grass, you might change to a much lower shutter speed, f/16, and single shots. Then happy with your closeup shots, you turn the camera off and go home. A few days later you are in the field, a BIF appears, you go to the Custom setting for BIF, and it's still set to 1/200 and f/16.

Basically I've given up on the Custom Modes for now.

Archibald wrote in post #19427415
Those custom modes are a whole other topic. But basically if you are in Tv or Av, regardless of how you got there, you are not in manual. Manual means YOU set the shutter and aperture and not the camera. If we have it on auto ISO, then it isn't really all manual, is it? But we still call it manual but with auto ISO.

The custom modes frustrate me. My wish is that if I suddenly see a shooting opportunity, like a BIF, then I should be able to dial to a custom mode so the camera immediately adopts the appropriate settings, for instance 1/2000, f/5.6, auto ISO, and continuous shooting. The only way to do that is to set "Auto update" under Custom shooting mode to Disable.

But if you are set to Disable, then changes are not retained when the camera goes to sleep. Say you have enough light and want wingtips of the BIF in focus, so you change the f/5.6 to f/9. Camera goes to sleep between BIFs and when the next one comes, you shoot away, but the R7 has gone back to f/5.6.

Fine, so you change the option to Enable. Now when you make changes to the settings, the changes stick. Change f/5.6 to f/9 and it stays at f/9. But this option has its own perils. If you see a katydid in the grass, you might change to a much lower shutter speed, f/16, and single shots. Then happy with your closeup shots, you turn the camera off and go home. A few days later you are in the field, a BIF appears, you go to the Custom setting for BIF, and it's still set to 1/200 and f/16.

Basically I've given up on the Custom Modes for now.

For C1 I set it to 1/2000 and f/5.6 and auto ISO then when I change to C1 when I get to the pond I then change the shutter speed and f-stop to what I want and then have the back dial for EV and use that to control the exp comp.
I had tried the enable for settings but I always want to start a 1/2000 and it often ended up 1/400th or something. C2 right now I have the same but ES. I do 90% of my shooting in C1 and change the speed (TV) and f stop (AV) as I want.

To change I use the wheel by the shutter button to spin up or down, the control ring to control F stop that I don't change much and the back wheel for EV which I manipulate all the time. always with auto ISO as the birds fly in and out of shadows or backgrounds