-= Canon EOS R7 owners unite! Post photos and discuss.

CyberDyneSystems wrote in post #19400723
Yes, you certainly can. I find manual shutter and aperture and let the iso land where it needs to on my R5 is fantastic.
I might be a little more ISO control freak on the R7 though. But in either case, it's great to make all the decisions based on shutter and aperture.

That is what I do I usually shoot C1 C2 or C3 where I have various manual shutter and aperture's set and auto ISO and usually set to EV/EC to 0 or -2/3 and then when a bird is against the sky try to change to +1 or +2 on the exposure comp

[QUOTE=PinholeR5;19400​715] I changed that to the one where the EC is always active on the control ring. That does create the chance for hitting it inadvertently, but that hasn't been a problem for me.

The only problem is that on occasion, I'll try to use my thumb to quickly adjust the ISO and instead only succeed in either turning off the camera or putting it in video mode


How do you change the control ring to always active, it is a pain to have to half press the shutter to turn the control ring


EDIT: figured it out

My EVF goes black after 7 seconds if you are not looking through it or holding down a button ( I have my rear screen turned in )

is there anyway to extend that time. I tried the power saving settings set them all to 3 minutes and screen dim to 30 seconds but still it blacks out after 7 seconds

Seeing a few shots taken with the 100-400mm MKII now (which look great), anyone tried it with the 1.4x MKIII yet?

mcoren wrote in post #19400646
Could be. I use the JPEG export tool that's built into ON1. I was never crazy about it in the past, and they just came out with a new version in either version 2022 or 2022.5 but I'm not crazy about that either. But it could also be my settings. Looking at the settings, the only options for resizing method are bicubic (what I used) and resize AI. There's also a sharpening setting in the export dialog that's set to "screen low", presumably low resolution for screen viewing. I'll try screen high in the future. The other settings are high and low resolution for each of mat and glossy photo paper (total four other settings).

Well, what you have here at 1600 pixels wide is clearly a product of nearest neighbor or some similar method. Look at the isolated lion hairs against the darker background; the hairs are in isolated beads that don't even touch each other and show background between them. Only the very worst methods of downsizing like nearest neighbor do that. Perhaps there is some other extra setting that is necessary for weighted averaging on downsizing. That lion image looks like 95% of the pixels were discarded with no influence on the result and the remainder composed the resulting image. The other images may have had the same processing, but if they don't have as much sharp fine detail they may not make it as obvious.

Maybe mcoren could post a link to a raw of that image, and others could have a go at it?

Jeff USN Photog 72-76 wrote in post #19400819
That is what I do I usually shoot C1 C2 or C3 where I have various manual shutter and aperture's set and auto ISO and usually set to EV/EC to 0 or -2/3 and then when a bird is against the sky try to change to +1 or +2 on the exposure comp

The only major downside I find with auto-ISO and M is that if you set the shutter speed for a shaded area, then suddenly shooting in sunlight again can cause blown areas. It would be nice if there was an option to boost shutter speed to avoid that, when light is too strong for the manual exposure settings.

A purist might say, "but that isn't really manual exposure", to which I would say "I don't use M to do pure manual exposure, and it's just an option". If I want my selected shutter speed to be the final word, then I'd turn that option off.

I've set the left arrow button on that 4 way gizmo to turn off the screen. Unfortunately it doesn't stay turned off.

John Sheehy wrote in post #19400884
The only major downside I find with auto-ISO and M is that if you set the shutter speed for a shaded area, then suddenly shooting in sunlight again can cause blown areas. It would be nice if there was an option to boost shutter speed to avoid that, when light is too strong for the manual exposure settings.

A purist might say, "but that isn't really manual exposure", to which I would say "I don't use M to do pure manual exposure, and it's just an option". If I want my selected shutter speed to be the final word, then I'd turn that option off.

I set the shutter speed, and f/stop and have auto ISO and as I move around the scene I see the ISO constantly changing. But sometimes I use exp correction to add + or reduce - the exposure

How long is the EVF supposed to be on after you take your eye away from it if your back screen is either turned off or turned in?

Jeff USN Photog 72-76 wrote in post #19400861
My EVF goes black after 7 seconds if you are not looking through it or holding down a button ( I have my rear screen turned in )

is there anyway to extend that time. I tried the power saving settings set them all to 3 minutes and screen dim to 30 seconds but still it blacks out after 7 seconds

The UM says

Lester Wareham wrote in post #19400930
The UM says

Hosted photo: posted by Lester Wareham in
./showthread.php?p=194​00930&i=i241696279
forum: Canon Digital Cameras

" after the camera is left idle.."

I think if you occasionally half-shutter/AF-on this should stop it?

I have the EVF set under power settings to turn off after 3 minutes but when I either hit the shutter or put my eye to it and move the eye away, it turns off after 8-10 seconds

How long do people EVF's stay on when the camera is IDLE? I often sit at the pond with the camera on my lap really don't think I should have to hit the shutter or lift it to my eye every 8 seconds.

I even set it to disable and it still goes off after 8 seconds.

if I have the rear screen open the EVF will power off as soon as your eye is away and the rear screen comes on.

Does the R5 or R6 do this also?

OK. I'll bite. Why do you need the EVF on before your eye gets to it?

Jeff USN Photog 72-76 wrote in post #19400957
I have the EVF set under power settings to turn off after 3 minutes but when I either hit the shutter or put my eye to it and move the eye away, it turns off after 8-10 seconds

How long do people EVF's stay on when the camera is IDLE? I often sit at the pond with the camera on my lap really don't think I should have to hit the shutter or lift it to my eye every 8 seconds.

I even set it to disable and it still goes off after 8 seconds.

if I have the rear screen open the EVF will power off as soon as your eye is away and the rear screen comes on.

Does the R5 or R6 do this also?

Yes, my R5 is this way and my R7 is also. I have got in the habit to half press shutter when raising camera, sometimes, but it comes on fairly quickly. I have not shot my R7 a lot since it arrived to notice if it is slower coming on than my R5. I don't remember seeing any adjustment for the timeout on it for either camera. A small piece of painter tape for a couple hours would tell you if it drains your battery or not.