Seperating a filter that's stubborn stuck...

I've always put a fairly tight rubber band around the stuck filter ring and turned like heck. Glad you finally got the thing off of the lens.

Prevention...

Back when I started in digital photography, I bought Olympus cameras and several lenses, some of them expensive.
I also used protective filters on all my lenses, because that's what the camera store guy told me I needed.
I also used ND and CP filters.

At times some filters would become stuck on the lens. Some were very hard to remove, even with a filter wrench.
So I decided to lubricate the threads. Using a toothpick, I applied a very small amount of vaseline to the filter threads.
Not much, only enough to make a thin film of vaseline on the threads. Any more than that and you run the risk
of getting vaseline on the elements. I only did this one time to my filter threads, and I never had another stuck filter.

Perfectly Frank wrote in post #19411123
Prevention...

Back when I started in digital photography, I bought Olympus cameras and several lenses, some of them expensive.
I also used protective filters on all my lenses, because that's what the camera store guy told me I needed.
I also used ND and CP filters.

At times some filters would become stuck on the lens. Some were very hard to remove, even with a filter wrench.
So I decided to lubricate the threads. Using a toothpick, I applied a very small amount of vaseline to the filter threads.
Not much, only enough to make a thin film of vaseline on the threads. Any more than that and you run the risk
of getting vaseline on the elements. I only did this one time to my filter threads, and I never had another stuck filter.

Instead of vaseline, which can leach in high heat and cause oil vapor on the glass (even with tiny amounts), use beeswax. Just take a tiny piece and rub around the threads. Had to do this with small filters, like Bay I/II/III to keep the legs from sticking. Luckily, I haven't had a filter smaller than 77mm in years.

docholliday_sc001 wrote in post #19411138
Instead of vaseline, which can leach in high heat and cause oil vapor on the glass (even with tiny amounts)

I live in a warm climate and use my gear in temps of 90s or 100s. Never had that problem.

FrostMonolith wrote in post #19410763
Update to the stubborn filter. As I receive my filter wrenches, I found that they weren't grippy enough, even scratched the filter from the outside, so I literally put some double-sided sticky foam around the wrench to add more grip, and...

Hosted photo: posted by FrostMonolith in
./showthread.php?p=194​10763&i=i155314009
forum: Canon Lenses

...it's finally out! I can finally clean the dust in between!

Hosted photo: posted by FrostMonolith in
./showthread.php?p=194​10763&i=i99457147
forum: Canon Lenses

Was a sticky situation, but thankfully it worked well in the end with no thread damage.

After seperating it, I found some dots that can't be cleaned on the front element of the lens... I guess those are what they call 'fungus spots'? Anyway, thank you everyone for the helps!

Brilliant! Will be using that idea on a lot of things!

Perfectly Frank wrote in post #19411162
I live in a warm climate and use my gear in temps of 90s or 100s. Never had that problem.

I've cleaned quite a few where petro jelly (or some other grease) has migrated down the inside of the lens barrel. Dust then stuck to it and eventually got loose inside the lens after the grease hardened, which is why I was working on it.

If you want to lubricate, stay away from petroleum jelly. While it works in the short term, it can damage rubber seals and hardens in time to a thick mess. Rather use a silicone based grease. Much safer and stays pretty much as you applies it for years. I wouldn't use much, just a dab on the end of a toothpick is more than enough.

Is K-Y jelly ok?

Choderboy wrote in post #19410080
When trying to remove by hand, the problem is you are mainly only applying a force at 2 spots and you are also compressing the ring, ie trying to force it 'out of round' which works against you. Those cheap filter removal wrenches will apply a fairly consistent force around the entire ring which really helps.
Another way of doing this is to use a flat rubber surface placed on a flat surface. Push down on the lens and twist. This will achieve the desirable even force over the entire ring.
Force will be applied to the front of the ring instead of the side. Even force on the entire ring means much less force required so you should not have to use much force on the lens.

If only using your hands, you can try to space fingers spread around the ring, which creates a more even spread of force. A rubber band on the filter ring works well for grip too.

My contingency method of doing this in the field is to find a parked truck with big tires.

With the lens and the recalcitrant filter attached, push the front of the camera firmly against the sidewall of one of the truck tires (lean on it) and twist the camera counterclockwise.

RDKirk wrote in post #19411955
My contingency method of doing this in the field is to find a parked truck with big tires.

With the lens and the recalcitrant filter attached, push the front of the camera firmly against the sidewall of one of the truck tires (lean on it) and twist the camera counterclockwise.

Been there, done that...except when there's no trucks or people around which is how I figured out that a rubber-soled shoe and tree does it just as well! At one point, I'd glued one of those rubber jar lid remover pads to the top of a Pelican in case it happened on location. On production shoots, I drag 4 1650 Pelicans with me so it was easy to just spot a case and go remove a filter.

RDKirk wrote in post #19411955
.
My contingency method of doing this in the field is to find a parked truck with big tires.

With the lens and the recalcitrant filter attached, push the front of the camera firmly against the sidewall of one of the truck tires (lean on it) and twist the camera counterclockwise.
.

.
Good way to set off someone's motion-sensing car alarm, isn't it? . I am afraid to even gently brush against any parked car, let alone push something firmly into one of its tires. . Good way to embarrass yourself and run somebody's battery down to nothing and ruin their adventure.


.

Tom Reichner wrote in post #19412046
.
Good way to set off someone's motion-sensing car alarm, isn't it? . I am afraid to even gently brush against any parked car, let alone push something firmly into one of its tires. . Good way to embarrass yourself and run somebody's battery down to nothing and ruin their adventure.

.

That merely requires a bit of observation of the truck in question. If it's tricked-out, just look for one that's more stock. If you can find a semi, that's even better.

Instead of using the sidewall of truck tires or the rubberized sole of a shoe/sneaker, just carry a 6" x 6" piece of material that's usually used to keep throw rugs in place.

It's thin, very grippy, looks like lace, and takes up virtually no room in your bag. it's pliable enough that you can try to use it with both hands or, if the filter is still stuck, just place the piece of material between the filter/lens combo and any flat surface, apply a little force plus some rotational twist and the filter usually walks right off.

RDKirk wrote in post #19411955
My contingency method of doing this in the field is to find a parked truck with big tires.

With the lens and the recalcitrant filter attached, push the front of the camera firmly against the sidewall of one of the truck tires (lean on it) and twist the camera counterclockwise.

Is there some reason why you don't dismount the lens? I would think a certain amount of care would have to be used when pushing and twisting both body and lens.

Leverage.

And convenience. I'm changing the filter, not the lens. It's not necessary to remove the lens from the body and then have to put the lens back on the body.