Seperating a filter that's stubborn stuck...

John from PA wrote in post #19413850
And just how much do you push, a direction of force that for the most part a lens is not designed to accommodate.

You'll be surprised that it doesn't take very much force to remove a filter - even a polarizer - since you are applying even pressure all the way around the ring.

joeseph wrote in post #19413758
I can't see that it would...

in terms of leverage & earlier mentioned worry about breaking the lens mount if a body is still mounted, the only thing I would say is that it's surprising how many folks get the direction of "loosen" wrong...

That's funny. True but funny.

Rod

gjl711 wrote in post #19413847
I can't see how pushing against the front of the filter is going to help. All of the forces will be transferred from the side of each thread to the next one greatly increasing friction. It seems to be that you would want to minimize any force vector perpendicular to the filter threads. Griping the outer ring of the filter and applying all of the force parallel to the filter threads seems the best option by far. I can see a rubber band helping with grip, a filter wrench, or even a jar opener in a pinch, but shoving a lens against a tire and pressing hard while twisting seems a recipe for disaster.

Actually, it's the opposite. Using a filter wrench or hand applies an uneven pressure around the filter, which on thin rings can cause them to go out of round and bite harder into the mating threads. Even pressure is the key, whether by hand gently pressing into the lens from the front of the filter first or harder against a non-slip item such as rubber/silicone sheet/sole if it still resists.

Pressing into the lens evenly around the whole circle of the filter releases the pressure on the "biting" thread and makes it easier to release. Also, there's space between threads - pressing against the front will release the tension from the mating thread, but will not be enough to reach the next thread. If the thread pitch is this tight, you have other problems...

Ya'll can argue this all you want. I'm just telling you what works when you're on a production shoot in the middle of nowhere and you have to change quickly. I will say that the ABS casing on the Canon lenses likes to bind more than metal threads on bigger lenses, which is expected since the plastic is more flexible. However, if you bind the metal threads, it's usually stuck harder.

I've even put a thin layer of teflon plumbing tape over filter threads to give them a bit of slip and it works well.

AntonLargiader wrote in post #19413872
If it's stuck because it's fully on, then the threads are loaded on the "pushing the filter outward" direction. Pushing in not only gives traction to the rubber gripping surface, but it can unload those threads as well. This is part of how impact drivers work. Yes it increases the force on the bottomed-out contact area, but that seems to be less important than the thread contact area.

If it's stuck because the threads are corroded or something else, then this effect will not really apply.

Exactly. Squeezing a filter with a wrench or band can actually increase the binding or shift it.

Corrosion of aluminum filters that have their coating worn is a whole new thing ... and a nightmare to get off at times (teflon tape for the temp fix!).

I'm going to jump in here re the stuck filter. Do a google search for rubber router mat. It is a non slip surface commonly used when using a router on small items or just free hand. Buy one and toss it in your kit. No need to look for a tire. Just an untested idea. Maybe it won't work.

Rod

RodS57 wrote in post #19414022
I'm going to jump in here re the stuck filter. Do a google search for rubber router mat. It is a non slip surface commonly used when using a router on small items or just free hand. Buy one and toss it in your kit. No need to look for a tire. Just an untested idea. Maybe it won't work.

Rod

Are you referring to the stuff in the picture (about 1/8 inch thick)? I use it in black to line my toolbox drawers and the wife uses a white version as shelf lining in the kitchen. She also has a scrap or two for removing tight jar lids. Hmmm, got a stuck filter, maybe turn the lens over to the wife?

RodS57 wrote in post #19414022
I'm going to jump in here re the stuck filter. Do a google search for rubber router mat. It is a non slip surface commonly used when using a router on small items or just free hand. Buy one and toss it in your kit. No need to look for a tire. Just an untested idea. Maybe it won't work.

Rod

I first used a truck tire to remove a filter 50 years ago. It's not an "untested idea." Rubber mats are great, but we didn't have them 50 years ago.

Back on pg 2, bogeypro recommended a non-skid carpet runner. Great idea. Basically the same thing as a router mat or toolbox liner. I went online and got a kitchen drawer liner. Seemed to be the smallest, cheapest piece of this stuff I could find.

Thanks for the tip.

RDKirk wrote in post #19414068
I first used a truck tire to remove a filter 50 years ago. It's not an "untested idea." Rubber mats are great, but we didn't have them 50 years ago.

My reference to untested was for the nonslip router mat not your tire method. Sorry for the confusion.

Rod

John from PA wrote in post #19414040
Are you referring to the stuff in the picture (about 1/8 inch thick)? I use it in black to line my toolbox drawers and the wife uses a white version as shelf lining in the kitchen. She also has a scrap or two for removing tight jar lids. Hmmm, got a stuck filter, maybe turn the lens over to the wife?

Hosted photo: posted by John from PA in
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forum: Canon Lenses

It could be. I remembered reading about the mat in an article on woodworking. A quick search and I found several variations on Amazon. I don't have any here so can't confirm how well it works.

Rod

I’m reminded of years ago when I inherited some Leica gear from my German born grandfather. He always carried a soft lead pencil in his “kit” and would hit just a few threads with the pencil prior to mounting a filter. Most of the Leica threaded mounts were chrome over brass. They too needed just a touch with the pencil, especially when the lenses got old and the chrome showed signs of wear. It was a very easy way to apply graphite and afforded an easy to control the quantity.

A vise grip works well. Put it on, tighten it down, and that sucker is coming off!

I’ve usually found that it works to press inward (on the filter rim) to get the required friction to loosen. Sort of like the rubber tire method but skin instead.

You're very welcome DrSilver, the lacey non-skid rug material (very similar to tool box drawer liner & kitchen drawer liner) has helped me out a couple times and I've been able to help others remove their filters with little effort and zero damage to their equipment. I don't remember who told me about it but I'm more than happy to share with others & spread the idea.