-= Canon EOS R6 Mark II owners unite! Post photos and discuss.

Thanks, @ Downhill. Big learning curve! I just ran up to my favorite overlook for Lick Observatory on Mt. Hamilton. I am not ready for birds in flight yet, but the mountain didn't move much!

Picked up my R6 mark II today. So far I really like it, setting it up as close to my R7 as possible, buttons and dials.

The main thing that bugs me is the on-off switch, the R7 the tab is on the back, closest to you, and you move it counter-clockwise, the R6 it is on the front of the switch and you turn it on Clockwise. Why can't they move the same way? I see that the same switch allows you to control the ISO, so that must be why, just a nit. I got a 3rd party battery grip from Adorama and it works fine. Also got another Control Ring RF/EF adapter so I have one for each camera.

I will be learning the camera over the next few weeks.

First couple shots are through my double hung window, first is 16,000 iso second is 25,600

Jeff USN Photog 72-76 wrote in post #19487928
Picked up my R6 mark II today. So far I really like it, setting it up as close to my R7 as possible, buttons and dials.

The main thing that bugs me is the on-off switch, the R7 the tab is on the back, closest to you, and you move it counter-clockwise, the R6 it is on the front of the switch and you turn it on Clockwise. Why can't they move the same way? I see that the same switch allows you to control the ISO, so that must be why, just a nit. I got a 3rd party battery grip from Adorama and it works fine. Also got another Control Ring RF/EF adapter so I have one for each camera.

I will be learning the camera over the next few weeks.

First couple shots are through my double hung window, first is 16,000 iso second is 25,600

Hosted photo: posted by Jeff USN Photog 72-76 in
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forum: Canon Digital Cameras

Hosted photo: posted by Jeff USN Photog 72-76 in
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forum: Canon Digital Cameras

I thought the same thing at first but now that I have been using it regularly for a couple of months it is a non issue (on-off switch).....

So I went to the pond today with the R6ii a couple observations, first the "AUTO" subject detect doesn't work well with even geese against a cluttered background. at least now I know.

Figured out the below issue.
I set the "AF-ON" button to SPOT focus but what I am getting is it will show the spot as I push the button but it locks onto whatever I first focused on even when I move the camera off it, after a moment a blue box appears around what I was trying to spot focus, depending on the size of it it changes sizes. Also the outer line around the entire EVF is visible.
On my R7 the spot stays as a spot. Compared the menus between the R7 and R6 and found I hadn't clicked the checkbox for focus on the left side...

So far I really like it except for the on/off switch, wish it worked like the R7 or the R7 like the R6...

Will post images later

Taken on 70-200mm IS L MII

Also getting used to mine.
What bothers me right now is the LCD because I can't tell the camera to stop using it like a viewfinder. You can turn it off entirely or flip it over, but if its active (eg for accessing menus or photo review) they seem to really want to lock you to having it active and showing the viewfinder image which feels annoying to me and also distracting and a waste of battery.

Overread wrote in post #19488208
Taken on 70-200mm IS L MII

Also getting used to mine.
What bothers me right now is the LCD because I can't tell the camera to stop using it like a viewfinder. You can turn it off entirely or flip it over, but if its active (eg for accessing menus or photo review) they seem to really want to lock you to having it active and showing the viewfinder image which feels annoying to me and also distracting and a waste of battery.

I agree with you regarding the LCD on/off behavior. I just flip to face the body. A bonus to that is minimal nose prints!

That dog has a mouthful. It looks like a fun dog!

Rick_G wrote in post #19488211
I agree with you regarding the LCD on/off behavior. I just flip to face the body. A bonus to that is minimal nose prints!

That dog has a mouthful. It looks like a fun dog!

He's certainly a handful! Great dog but darn to huskies have strong opinions and lots of zooms in them!

And yeah I might have to adapt to just using the viewfinder for review and such and getting used to that instead of the LCD. Or hoping canon release a firmwire update that allows more DSLR likebehaviour. It would be a great feature as I'm sure with the screen constantly turning on for review its burning battery that I don't need it burning

I rarely use the back screen now. I have it flipped close and unless I am using it to shoot witht he camera over my head or very low. At first it felt odd but after learning to review photos in the viewfinder I think it is actually better that way. It gives a better view in any, including bright, light and it definately helps with battery life.

I don't understand why there isn't a seetting to have it work like on a DSLR.

Under wrench menu 3, there's an item called "Power Saving." I've chosen to have the camera power off after 30 seconds. The camera hangs at my side, and I just lightly press the shutter button as I'm bringing the camera to my face. The camera is ready to go. I can shoot hundreds of pictures over the course of many hours on one battery just as I could with my DSLRs.

Under the Power Saving menu there's also a screen timeout option, but I prefer the power off option.

Quick question: are you intentionally shooting at those high ISOs to demonstrate the noise performance?

There is a learning curve coming from the 5D Mk III. I have been watching YouTube videos until cross-eyed, but I am ready to go out and start practicing in the real world (or as close as California comes to that!). I believe I have most of the autofocus stuff figured out for general and landscape stuff. I am going to be looking for some slow moving objects to practice on before I move to fast things.

Still can't get used to the blue and green grids, though. I guess when I get to tracking things they will make sense.

Yno wrote in post #19488249
There is a learning curve coming from the 5D Mk III. I have been watching YouTube videos until cross-eyed, but I am ready to go out and start practicing in the real world (or as close as California comes to that!). I believe I have most of the autofocus stuff figured out for general and landscape stuff. I am going to be looking for some slow moving objects to practice on before I move to fast things.

Still can't get used to the blue and green grids, though. I guess when I get to tracking things they will make sense.

Menu - AF - tab 1
Set:
AF Operation - Servo
AF Area - Spot AF (one on the far left side)
Whole Area Tracking Servo AF - off
Subject to Detect - none
Eye detection - auto
Switching Tracked Subjects 1


That's what I've setup and it makes the big blue/green thingies go away. It's basically putting it back to the similar style of single point AF control for action with the servo mode. You can use the little joystick on the back to move the AF point around to wherever you want it and it stays there whilst pressing the joystick in the middle re-sets it to the middle position.

That might be easier to get to grips with and then steadily try out the other AF modes in different situations and bring in things like subject tracking features and the like. In fact a lot of the wildlife videos I've seen have the AF-On button set to backbutton AF and the * button set to activate subject tracking (or the other way around with the two buttons) so they can switch on the fly between the two.

MatthewK wrote in post #19488240
Quick question: are you intentionally shooting at those high ISOs to demonstrate the noise performance?

Yes I am because most days in the early morning when I am at my local pond using my R7 I am shooting at 1/1600 or 1/2000 at f/8 or f/11 (depending on the lens) and the ISO is often up to 6,400 so I am trying to find what I will get with the R6ii

here is one that the only thing I did was to process it in the latest Topaz Photo AI to see what it would do with a 12,800 ISO

Overread wrote in post #19488250
Menu - AF - tab 1
Set:
AF Operation - Servo
AF Area - Spot AF (one on the far left side)
Whole Area Tracking Servo AF - off
Subject to Detect - none
Eye detection - auto
Switching Tracked Subjects 1

That's what I've setup and it makes the big blue/green thingies go away. It's basically putting it back to the similar style of single point AF control for action with the servo mode. You can use the little joystick on the back to move the AF point around to wherever you want it and it stays there whilst pressing the joystick in the middle re-sets it to the middle position.

That might be easier to get to grips with and then steadily try out the other AF modes in different situations and bring in things like subject tracking features and the like. In fact a lot of the wildlife videos I've seen have the AF-On button set to backbutton AF and the * button set to activate subject tracking (or the other way around with the two buttons) so they can switch on the fly between the two.

I have AF set up exactly as you list. Still get the grids. The weird thing is that when the focus point is is on any object at any distance, that object pops into focus. I can move the camera around and it refocuses. If I snap the shutter I get a perfect shot without hitting any focusing button. Is this normal?

I was wondering, as 1/4000 and f/9 is pretty up there for perched birds! The files look insanely clean though, the big pixels on that sensor are handling the noise well.