While it's a superb lens, I don't think the Canon EF 100mm Macro will work for you. From your description, the products you are shooting are relatively large and you have very limited working distance in a small studio space.
Check the minimum focus distance on any of the below lenses, to be sure they will work for you... but you also can add a macro extension tube to any of them to make them closer focusing, if needed.
Both the EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM and EF-S 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM are excellent lenses. They are as close to "L quality" as you will get with an EF-S lens. Prices to purchase either new are around $700 to $800, but there are also a lot of lightly used ones around for a lot less.
If you are working with available light or manual studio lighting, the non-variable f/2.8 aperture of the 17-55mm might be preferable. But you get a better range of focal lengths if the variable f/3.5-5.6 of the 15-85mm is okay for your purposes.
Outside of those two, there are many good zooms that will cover the focal lengths you say are most important. Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM (two versions, both quite good optically, II version a bit more robust build) or EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM (version II better optically) or EF 24-70mm f/4L IS USM (only one version ever offered). Note that the latter two have IS, while the f/2.8 lens doesn't... if that's a consideration. Some of these have been discontinued and are now only available used.
It sounds as if you are doing "table top studio" work. My go-to lenses for that sort of thing have been the Canon "Tilt-Shift" TS-E 24mm f/3.5L, TS-E 45mm f/2.8 and TS-E 90mm f/2.8 (I don't currently have a copy of the last one, but do still have the other two). Newer versions of these lenses are improved in various ways. Those include the TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II (improved optically), TS-E 50mm f/2.8L Macro and TS-E 90mm f/2.8L Macro. The latter two are now closer focusing, but the earlier 45mm and 90mm are actually pretty close focusing already, plus any of them can easily be used with macro extension tubes to make them closer focusing.
Tilt-Shift lenses give means of adjusting the focal plane to keep an object set on a diagonal fully in focus. The shift mechanism also can be handy to "dodge" unwanted "self portraits" in highly reflective objects. Their aperture works like any other Canon lens (via the camera controls and with all the usual auto exposure modes), but these are all manual focus lenses. That's no problem with focus assist features in most Canon cameras,. Set to One Shot so Focus Confirmation can work. Or use Live View and the magnification possible there to check focus. Or tether to a computer or pad for a larger view.
One difference between the old and the new TS-E lenses is all the newer ones ("II" or "Macro") have two planes of rotation to orient the tilt and shift functions with relation to the subject and to each other. The older version only have a single plane of rotation... which works fine when using one of the functions or the other, but doesn't allow easily changing the two movements' orientation with each other (it can be done, but requires partial disassembly of the lens). On the older lenses the two movements are typically 90 degrees out of phase with each other. This is rarely a problem... has never been a problem for my purposes... but you never know.
The newer lenses are a WHOLE LOT more expensive. The older ones were pricey in their day, too... but have come way down in price on the used market. And there is a healthy used market for them, since they are rather specialized lenses that a lot of photographers purchase for a particular job, then sell off when done with the work and no longer needing the lens. Note: There are also TS-E 17mm f/4L and TS-E 135mm f/4L Macro lenses... but you probably don't need those. The 17mm is a great lens for architecture, while the 135mm is probably too long for your size studio. These two also tend to be among the most expensive, BTW.
I mentioned macro extension tubes several times above. If you don't have any and feel you need them, I recommend the Kenko set for Canon EF/EF-S. It's well made and includes 12mm, 20mm and 36mm tubes. Costs about $130. Canon's own extension tubes are also well made, but they have actually been discontinued, only offered 12mm and 25mm and only sold them individually. The 12mm typically costs around $90 and the 25mm costs about $140 (more than the full set of Kenko tubes, which are similar quality and identical in function).
Here are some sample close up images done with a couple of the lenses mentioned above. The first two were taken with the EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM (1st version) near it's closest focus distance.
Fall leaves (approx. actual size as shown here)
EF 24-70mm @ 63mm on full frame (= to 39mm on 70D), f/8, B+W Polarizing filter
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© amfoto1 [SHARE LINK] THIS IS A LOW QUALITY PREVIEW. Please log in to see the good quality stuff. Rain water on oil spot in parking lot
EF 24-70mm @ 68mm on APS-C (same as 70D), f/5.6, no filter.
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© amfoto1 [SHARE LINK] THIS IS A LOW QUALITY PREVIEW. Please log in to see the good quality stuff. The three images below were shot with my TS-E 45mm f/2.8 lens. They are all product shots done on a table top using natural light. These are all soap products and the photos were to be used on websites and in printed catalogs. There were several hundred products to photograph.
These are rather large (chop sticks and Chinese coins give some idea), but the reflection was tricky. I had to use the 45mm lens' shift function to keep myself out of all the reflections on the plastic packaging.
This product was set at a slight diagonal, which can easily be accommodated with the 45mm tilt function, to align the plane of focus with the subject.
This is a quite small product... only about 2 inches tall... to give you some idea how close the 45mm can focus on its own. I didn't need to use any extension tube.
Finally, here are several shots I've made with my Canon EF 100mm f/2.8 USM Macro lens....
These amaryllis are about 12" or 15" across. This photo was taken from a distance of about 15 feet.
This bee is shot with the 100mm lens near it's closest focusing distance (11 inches) and max magnification (1:1).
Orchid blossom photographed with 100mm lens from a distance of 3 or 4 feet.
You be the judge if a 100mm lens is "too long" for your subjects and working space.
I hope this helps!