Advantages of full frame over crop for macro?

I have a Canon R7 crop sensor and an R8 full frame. I have just ordered the Canon 100mm f2.8 L macro lens. Does one camera have an advantage over the other? I know the R7 has the 1.6 crop factor but the R8 has better low light capability and is high enough resolution to do some cropping during editing.

I'll of course do my own experimenting as I learn macro. I hope to have images worth contributing to the forum by the end of summer. I've been looking at all the great images here and have been really inspired.

If 'macro' is the classic definition (image at reproduction ratio > [1:3] of subject size) the larger frame captures a larger subject...e.g. a 22x34mm subject fits into the 24x36mm frame at 1:1, but cannot entirely fit the 15x22mm frame at 1:1

But if 'macro' means today's loose definition for 'macro' of 'fit a close up subject into the frame', the R7 frame puts 6960 pixels across the long dimension of the frame, while the R8 only puts 6000 pixels across the long dimension of the frame...so the R7 puts more pixels on the same amount of subject. And the Working Distance with same lens is longer on the R7, simply because the reproduction ratio (size on sensor) is lower on the smaller frame.

Wilt wrote in post #19524888
If 'macro' is the classic definition (image at reproduction ratio > [1:3] of subject size) the larger frame captures a larger subject...e.g. a 22x34mm subject fits into the 24x36mm frame at 1:1, but cannot entirely fit the 15x22mm frame at 1:1

But if 'macro' means today's loose definition for 'macro' of 'fit a close up subject into the frame', the R7 frame puts 6960 pixels across the long dimension of the frame, while the R8 only puts 6000 pixels across the long dimension of the frame...so the R7 puts more pixels on the same amount of subject. And the Working Distance with same lens is longer on the R7, simply because the reproduction ratio (size on sensor) is lower on the smaller frame.

Thank you Wilt. I should have my new lens early next week. It has a 1.4:1 ratio. If I understand what you are saying correctly the crop sensor camera should work really well.

It seems to be a guideline that apsc are a bit better for macros.

Now if you want more magnification without breaking the bank and keep using the 100L, take a look at the NISI close up filter, it has been awesome with my setup.

I might try the close up filter eventually. I may try extension tubes too. For now I'll be learning with the macro lens by itself so I can learn the basics. I also got a flash diffuser and have plenty of insects in the yard to model for me.

I alternate between 5D3 & 7D2 for macro. The 5D3 does better in low light but I like the smaller 7D2 sensor for tiny flowers. Less cropping, equally good results in decent light.

aezoss wrote in post #19525253
I alternate between 5D3 & 7D2 for macro. The 5D3 does better in low light but I like the smaller 7D2 sensor for tiny flowers. Less cropping, equally good results in decent light.

I will definitely be trying both and learning what works best in different conditions. I live in the Pacific Northwest with a lot of heavily wooded areas and the rainforest on the Olympic peninsula. It can be pretty dark in the trees. It's going to be fun seeing the variety of insects and other things we have to photograph. Before I took up photography I never really paid much attention to it.

100L should be enough. Use stabilisation and AI Servo. Once camera is locked on the bug, AI Servo will compensate bug's and yours movement.

AI Servo may not be enough. I have tried that enough times, and now just use manual focus (ie moving back and forth). It depends on the situation, insects on stable surfaces, yes, insects on branches/flowers, no.

This is where mirrorless focus peaking works wonders.

TeamSpeed wrote in post #19525556
AI Servo may not be enough. I have tried that enough times, and now just use manual focus (ie moving back and forth). It depends on the situation, insects on stable surfaces, yes, insects on branches/flowers, no.

This is where mirrorless focus peaking works wonders.

I just literally found focus peaking on my cameras 2 days ago. It looks like a great way to focus on macro subjects. My new lens will be here tomorrow then the fun begins.

kf095 wrote in post #19525551
100L should be enough. Use stabilisation and AI Servo. Once camera is locked on the bug, AI Servo will compensate bug's and yours movement.

I have to work on approaching the bugs too. They can be really shy. I have read that it might be easier early in the morning when it's cooler and they are not fully active yet.