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Thread started 08 Apr 2006 (Saturday) 08:22
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Life is hard...

 
bewaretheblur
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Apr 08, 2006 08:22 |  #1

My wife's been in tears over this puzzle for weeks...

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Robert_Lay
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Apr 08, 2006 08:36 |  #2

Interesting composition.

Considering the harsh lighting (extensive dynamic range), you were able to get a very good rendition.

Did you use "Merge to HDR"?


Bob
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Canon Rebel XTi; EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-f/5.6 USM; EF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-f/5.6; EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM; EF 50mm f/1.4 USM; Canon Powershot G5; Canon AE1(2); Leica R4s; Battery Grip BG-E3; Pentax Digital Spotmeter with Zone VI Mod & Calibration.

  
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bewaretheblur
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Apr 08, 2006 08:38 as a reply to  @ Robert_Lay's post |  #3

Robert_Lay wrote:
Interesting composition.

Considering the harsh lighting (extensive dynamic range), you were able to get a very good rendition.

Did you use "Merge to HDR"?

I actually have no clue what I'm doing when it comes to taking pictures. I'm not even sure what "Merge to HDR" is...


Bodies: 1d mkIII, 30D, 20D,
Lenses: Canon 10-22mm, Canon 60mm macro, Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L, Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L
Stuff: Canon 580 EXII Flash, Sigma EF-500 DG Super Flash, Gary Fong's Peanut Dish LSII, Manfrotto 3201BPRO legs w/3047 Deluxe 3-way head, Konica Minolta Dimage G600 (P&S)

  
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Robert_Lay
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Apr 08, 2006 13:56 |  #4

No problem - you are doing great for someone who's just getting started.
In a scene such as yours the brightest highlights and the deepest shadows must fit into a scale of values from 0 to 255 (black to white). If the range of brightnesses gets jammed into that number space improperly, you lose detail at one end of the scale or the other (sometimes at both ends).

In such a case shooting in RAW mode greatly enhances your chances of saving detail where you want it before it gets committed to an end-use format, such as JPG.

In extreme cases, "Merge to HDR" can take two or more separate images of the same scene and process them so as to take the highlight information from one, the mid tone region from a second and the shadow region from a third, combining them all into one image with the best possible apportioning of detail.


Bob
Quality of Light (external link), Photo Tool ver 2.0 (external link)
Canon Rebel XTi; EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-f/5.6 USM; EF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-f/5.6; EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM; EF 50mm f/1.4 USM; Canon Powershot G5; Canon AE1(2); Leica R4s; Battery Grip BG-E3; Pentax Digital Spotmeter with Zone VI Mod & Calibration.

  
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bewaretheblur
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Apr 08, 2006 14:02 as a reply to  @ Robert_Lay's post |  #5

Robert_Lay wrote:
No problem - you are doing great for someone who's just getting started.
In a scene such as yours the brightest highlights and the deepest shadows must fit into a scale of values from 0 to 255 (black to white). If the range of brightnesses gets jammed into that number space improperly, you lose detail at one end of the scale or the other (sometimes at both ends).

In such a case shooting in RAW mode greatly enhances your chances of saving detail where you want it before it gets committed to an end-use format, such as JPG.

In extreme cases, "Merge to HDR" can take two or more separate images of the same scene and process them so as to take the highlight information from one, the mid tone region from a second and the shadow region from a third, combining them all into one image with the best possible apportioning of detail.

Ah, that makes sense. Wow, is that Merge to HDR accurate? How much of it is automatic, and how much of it do you have to clean up after?


Bodies: 1d mkIII, 30D, 20D,
Lenses: Canon 10-22mm, Canon 60mm macro, Canon 24-70mm f/2.8L, Canon 70-200mm f/2.8L
Stuff: Canon 580 EXII Flash, Sigma EF-500 DG Super Flash, Gary Fong's Peanut Dish LSII, Manfrotto 3201BPRO legs w/3047 Deluxe 3-way head, Konica Minolta Dimage G600 (P&S)

  
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Robert_Lay
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Apr 08, 2006 16:51 as a reply to  @ bewaretheblur's post |  #6

bewaretheblur wrote:
Ah, that makes sense. Wow, is that Merge to HDR accurate? How much of it is automatic, and how much of it do you have to clean up after?

It is very much a two-step process.
The first step is very automatic. There is nothing to do in that step other than choose the frames to be merged and invoke the merge itself.

It's the next step that has all of the usual adjustments - essentially "curves".


Bob
Quality of Light (external link), Photo Tool ver 2.0 (external link)
Canon Rebel XTi; EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-f/5.6 USM; EF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-f/5.6; EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM; EF 50mm f/1.4 USM; Canon Powershot G5; Canon AE1(2); Leica R4s; Battery Grip BG-E3; Pentax Digital Spotmeter with Zone VI Mod & Calibration.

  
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