How to get a picture like this sharper?

I shot this late afternoon in the shade. It was with a Sigma 150mm f/2.8 (a very sharp lens), but at 1/50th, f/4.0, ISO 200. Would I have been better to use a flash? I couldn't open up the aperture any more as I'd lose depth of focus. Hand held didn't help either.

Any suggestions?

It doesn't seem too bad.

A bit of usm.
A bit of color and a bit of contrast.

HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Byte size: ZERO | PHOTOBUCKET ERROR IMAGE

I hope this is ok to do, my appologies if not. Is a few different ways to do same thing, ultrasharpen pro (http://www.ultrasharpe​n.com, then some levels editing, create new layer>levels in photoshop (circle with black/white divide, select the far left dropper (black) and click on darkest part of image, do same with far right dropper for white, then center dropper on a grey neutral tone area of image. (can set max black range to about 5-6) set max white range to about 94-95 (important for print).

levels

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I think the original looks a litle flat, which mickle has done a good job to improve. Sorry JCR, but yours looks way over-sharpened to me.(IMHO)

Hi Mate,

Number one thing to remember is the general rule of shutter speed = 1/focal length for a guideline of min shutter speed. This is of course assuming that you are hand holding (just an educated guess).

So with your 150mm lens, your min recommended shutter speed would be 1/150th of a second. You could have got this a few ways - bumped your ISO (400 or 800 is generally still quite acceptable), sacrificed that extra stop (the DOF is pretty good for f4, so you probably could have got away with f2.8), or as you said - use a flash.

With that said however, it doesn't seem to have much in the way of camera shake etc., but every bit of shutter speed helps. Shooting anything that is fast moving, i will ususally use up to ISO 800 even during the day to get as much shutter speed as i can - assuming i want it to be clear and frozen in action.

Rob

Thats cool TeeJay, it's all in the eye of the beholder I guess (and allowing for the 100k limit)
Main point was to show other ways to do the same thing. The levels being the most important part of the process, it gives consistent results, saves driving up colour/contrast by eye and ultimately noise white balance. Clipping the black and white values will also help in the printing process.
Whichever way suits the user ultimately.

Sorry, JCR, I was forgetting the 100K limit - that can play havoc with the "sharpness" of a pic. Totally agree though with what you say, I'm sure the OP appreciates alternative options.

Edit - and it's really good that you posted screen pics of what you did - it can often be difficult to understand what is meant and how something is being achieved - nice one!

Thanks for the replies everyone. I was kind of looking for help to make the image sharper at the time of shooting. But I am very impressed at just what you can do with PS! Must go and experiment more...

Thanks for the tips so far.

No need for apology mate, I guess it did also look like an attempt of 'i can do better' on reflection which honestly wasn't my intention. Mickle done a great job.

Your welcome meaty0
Thanks Shooter-boy my camera skills are paltry at best so far, that advice I will look at too.

Remember that the camera has an anti-alias filter on the sensor which will require you to do some sharpening whether in camera (Jpeg) or in Post processing. Having to add a little USM is not a bad thing and generally gives the image some pop like others have shown here.

I agree with Rob - the Shooter Boy, wholeheartedly. Your shutter speed was way too slow for handholding. I have used a Sigma 180mm Macro. The sharpness and contrast are amazing. You should be able to get great result right out of the camera when using the 150mm if everything is done right, such as appropriate white balance, good exposure, right shutter speed to offset the shake or subject motion....etc.

Yeah..you're dead right. There's so many rules to run through before you take the shot, sometimes I forget a few; like the 1/focal length one! Thanks for the suggestions.

Paul

Shutter speed is too slow for the focal length and the subject (moving subject and birds have tendancies to make very quick movements). It's hard to tell, but the focus point is definately on the grass infront of the bird's feet. Not able to tell if the bird's eyes are directly above that focus point.

1/focal length shutter speed needs to be second nature and one of the things you are constantly monitoring.