Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM - The Brick

wow, i wouldnt say that place was dim, i would say it was a cave!

mizouse wrote in post #9048147
wow, i wouldnt say that place was dim, i would say it was a cave!

yeah LOL... i was joking with my girlfriend that i'd really need a 1ds MK IV when it comes out. i'm pretty sure that that camera would have ISO 102400. if not 204800.

(on the side note... can you imaging 2 more stops after that? 204800, 409600, 819200, 1638400. WOW!)

Soon, soon, soon, soon, soon. Hopefully before the turn of the year! I've been looking forward to this lens for so long. It'll compliment my 1D2 and 70-200/2.8 nicely I think.

How do you all find handholding this lens while shooting candids..??

pratman64 wrote in post #9050520
How do you all find handholding this lens while shooting candids..??

As a rule of thumb (and it depends on how shaky your hands are), you can typically hand hold a lens at 1 / focal length... so even on the long end of the 24-70, you should be OK (1/60 or 1/100). Anything much less than that and you're going to get blur from movement anyway, right? As nice as IS on this lens would be, it's not really necessary, IMHO.

(That's not to say that I won't check out the 24-70 2.8 IS if/when it ever comes out.)

Marloon wrote in post #9048221
yeah LOL... i was joking with my girlfriend that i'd really need a 1ds MK IV when it comes out. i'm pretty sure that that camera would have ISO 102400. if not 204800.

(on the side note... can you imaging 2 more stops after that? 204800, 409600, 819200, 1638400. WOW!)

I am sure a Nikon D700 or D3s would be able to handle those kind of low light shots a lot better *runs away from an angry mob*

imtrashed wrote in post #9050576
As a rule of thumb (and it depends on how shaky your hands are), you can typically hand hold a lens at 1 / focal length... so even on the long end of the 24-70, you should be OK (1/60 or 1/100). Anything much less than that and you're going to get blur from movement anyway, right? As nice as IS on this lens would be, it's not really necessary, IMHO.

(That's not to say that I won't check out the 24-70 2.8 IS if/when it ever comes out.)

HA! I would definitely ditch mine and get the new version whenever it will be released -.-

imtrashed wrote in post #9050576
As a rule of thumb (and it depends on how shaky your hands are), you can typically hand hold a lens at 1 / focal length... so even on the long end of the 24-70, you should be OK (1/60 or 1/100). Anything much less than that and you're going to get blur from movement anyway, right? As nice as IS on this lens would be, it's not really necessary, IMHO.

(That's not to say that I won't check out the 24-70 2.8 IS if/when it ever comes out.)

Thanks, imtrashed.

Just testing the ISO in the 5D2.

ISO 5000

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We've all heard there are "bad" copies of this lens out there. How does one know whether it's a "good" copy or a "bad" one..? What should one look for..?

Thank you all.

I made the same comment a while back and was advised that most "bad copies" are actually operator error. A good example was when I did some shooting a few days after an airshow. I changed lenses and forgot to change the AI Servo. The lenses was "hunting" on a subject and throwing off the focus. I went to full auto for the shot and it was good. I then started going through settings to find the cause. Not all lenses/body combos react the same way, so check everything before declaring the lens a "bad copy". Canon's quality control seems pretty darn good. I have several lenses and a few bodies- all work well. Oh ya, there was that time I put my 1.4 converter on my "out of the box" 100-400 and the auto-focus wouldn't work. Just great, I travel the the Reno Air Races with a brand new lens that won't focus. I took off the converter and it worked fine. Reading that boring paperwork they pack around the lens came to mind.