Poor 1d mk2 n images

Hi

I have bought myself a 1d mark 2n, mainly for motorsport photography as an upgrade from a 20D.

However I am not happy with the results I am getting from it (mainly panned shots). Too many shots are blurred (far worse success rate than I got with the 20D), despite resorting to using a faster shutter speed to try and salvage something.

Just been playing with the camera on a tripod with a few lenses, and not entirely happy with the results like that.

Here are a few example (non moving items). Note that these are full size jpegs from the camera so are a tad large. All using just the centre focus point. All using a Sigma 70-200 f2.8 lense (which I am very happy with on the 20D), and I get similar results using a Sigma 120-300 f2.8 lense. Ones using the 100-400 Canon lense were worse. All using AI servo mode (moving targets are worse than these).

First one is one of the cats (f22, 1/12th second). Not bad, but full size the fur does not look crisp. Also the drain cover in the foreground looks more in focus than the cat.

http://www.alfa-pages.co.uk/temppictur​e/focus1_large.jpg

Bike in the garage. Not that bright in there (f11 @ 1/8th second). Probably the best of the shots, but the area I was focusing on was the edge of the fairing below the headlights, while the tyre seems more in focus.

http://www.alfa-pages.co.uk/temppictur​e/focus2_large.jpg

Bit of dead ivey (f11 @ 1/40th second). Pretty awful, especially towards the bottom of the shot.

http://www.alfa-pages.co.uk/temppictur​e/focus3_large.jpg

Carb on a bike (f14 @ 1/13th second). Not bad, except it seems that the chromed airbox cover is crisper.

http://www.alfa-pages.co.uk/temppictur​e/focus4_large.jpg

Some toy bikes inside on a shelf (f8 @ half a second). Again seems that the tyre is in focus while the main part of the bike is out.

http://www.alfa-pages.co.uk/temppictur​e/focus5_large.jpg

Any suggestions of what I am doing wrong? Almost seems like the depth of field is far less than you would expect for the apertures I have used.

All the best

Keith

two things

First, you can't expect the cat not to move at all at 1/12th, so it has probably moved slightly.

Secondly, you need to remember that your dealing with a larger sensor. The 1.3x crop means that DOF will be smaller at equivalent apertures.

I don't have one of these (unless you feel like sending it to me to test ), so I can't give you a huge amount of help apart from that.

Good luck

Leo

Hi

Took about 5 to get one where the cat was steady! Was trying to get some of some flowers, but not a hope that they were staying steady with the wind.

The depth of field seems very narrow with these shots though.

All the best

Keith

Shutter speeds, learn them! Your slowest shot was 1/40 and the shortest focal length of your lenses is 70mm so you have camera shake. Use wider appetures too. Get your shutter speed up to 1/125 or faster, use 1/focal length rule. Don't be afraid of higher iso speeds.

Okay... did you try the same shots with the AF mode in One-Shot instead of AI Servo? I find that if I'm shooting still subjects with my 1D MkI, AI Servo is actually not a good thing. So I set it to One-Shot Autofocus and I use "automatic focus point registration", so that I see a bunch of focus points light up in the viewfinder. They're usually on the subject, and with the smaller apertures your selecting, your depth of field should be "deep" enough to have everything in focus. I'm no "professional" at shooting racing bikes or cars yet... still practicing.

edit: I agree with Hellashot too... get the shutterspeed up, even if that means bring the ISO to 800+. Yes, noise can be bad, but it's not worse than a photo that's out of focus.

I second shutter speed speculation.

If you must then first make all blur minimizing techniques such as remote sutter relase, mirror lock up etc, of a still life subject and check the result.

Be bold. Go with higher ISO, you will be surprise how good these sensors tolerate even 800 or 1600 with minimal only quality lose.

Samsen

Hi

I get the same issues using the timer on the shutter release, and using faster shutter speeds (on moving targets I generally use 1/160th, increased that to 1/200th for the same shots using the 1D rather than the 20D). I just set it to ISO 100 to eliminate any noise on these test shots.

All these were taken on a hefty tripod.

All the best

Keith

well i would do a test iso 200 or 400 set TV and 1/1000 sec and see what you get then on a nice day outside.
Rob.

Hi

An example with a higher shutter speed.

This is taken at ISO 100, 200th second shutter speed and f5.6.

http://www.alfa-pages.co.uk/TempPictur​e/Focus6_large.jpg

The leaves closest to the camera are noticeably sharper, those farthest away (about an inch max) blurred. At f5.6 the depth of field should cover that.

All the best

Keith

Hi Keith,

I agree with others - get that shutter speed up a bit. Although you used a tripod, you can still get some vibration from the reflex mirror as well as subject movement with a slow shutter.

The last shot you took shows some pretty crisp leaves on the ivy you shot, at least in the center/top of the frame. Is the bottom of the image farther from the camera? If so, it could be a depth-of-field issue. The closer the subject, the more shallow the DOF appears.

Hi

Distance is about the same (top and bottom).

Main issue is why I am getting such a rubbish success rate at panned shots (similarly blurred to these pics), despite using a faster shutter speed on the 1d than the 20d.

All the best

Keith

you havent posted any panned shots (unless i missed it) however it seems to me you're trying to find something wrong with it, why are you shooting at f/22 and 1/12 of a second? why not have it shallower DOF but a much faster shutter speed? at 1/12 any tiny movements are going to show up, so up the shutter speed if it's blur you're concerned with.

plus, you might be shooting too close, as in closer than your lens' min. focusing distance

Keith, I had exactly the same problem with my new 1D MkII N, most of my sports action shots were blurred way more often than with my 20D or 30D. If it's any help, I found that about the time I got used to the camera and learned it well, the damn thing started taking excellent photos. My obvious conclusion was that the camera required a break-in period of 1000-1500 shots...

#1. I USM'ed your last one and it shapened right up.........another 170, 0.3, 00

#2. What picture style are you using? (if JPG's) Because you understand that if you are shooting neutral (and a couple others) then you have no in camera sharpening. That alone could make a huge difference if your using the same amount of USM as the 20D. This site may help you understanding the differences between the cameras & Picture styles-.....look at the bottom of the page
http://web.canon.jp …style/shooting/​index.html

#3. keep in mind you coming from a 1.6 crop.......using the sweetest spot on the lens, whith the 1.3 you will start to pick up any lens issues you might have not seen on the 1.6.

The Mk2N is a great camera but I does have a learning curve, and until you get over it the camera is without a doubt not as forgiving as the 20D. Learn the camera, and watch the settings.......they can really help you, and also really hurt you if used in the wrong way.

Trust me, I know this......look at my sig :wink"

Oh and BTW, set your exposure comp at +1/3 and just leave it there......another helpfull hint.

My guess would be using AI servo on stationary objects. I'd try the same tests with one shot.