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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 24 Jun 2006 (Saturday) 11:28
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Photographing Art

 
dietcookie
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Jun 27, 2006 05:42 as a reply to  @ post 1651693 |  #16

coreypolis wrote:
you don't need strobes, just a good tripod with a level, a macro lens (macro lenses have a flat plane of focus, rather than a slightly curved one) 2 lights, point them to the center from 45ยบ, then feather them to the sides, check with a light meter to see that the light is even across the entire piece, use a cable release and mirror lockup if possible, use a polarizing filter to reduce glare/flare, and you should be good to go.

slide film comes in very different types. you could get astia to try and have the colors remain as close to normal as possible. almost all slide films are very slow iso, so having a good tripod etc is a must.

slide films like all films have a issue on longer exposurers, called reciporcity, where the film begins to break down over 1 second, and you end up needed more time to expose correctly for. some are better than others, and you should plan accordingly. something like kodak 64t holds up very well, and is color balanced to work with tungsten lighting.

If he is using strobes, reciprocity won't be an issue.

As for using medium format for slides to project, he will have one hell of a time finding someone that will mount medium format slides. As everyone said, get a 35mm body, the quality of a 35mm will blow your 20D out of the water.

As for film of course i'd use a neutral film such as sensia if you are on a budget or go and get some astia.

Lighting wise, light it like a copy stand, 45 degrees on each side, either polarize both the light sources or use a filter on your lens.


feel free to edit please.
http://www.photo.net …er_id=1776392&i​nclude=all (external link)

  
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superstes
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Aug 23, 2008 16:28 |  #17

Hi Tim

I'm just starting out photographing art, I'm also new to photography.

I've done a Google and diden't find much, is this book aimed at, and for film, or will I, as a new digital photographer, get it, without losing the plot with film terminologies.

Thanks

Steve




  
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mattograph
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Aug 23, 2008 16:46 |  #18

superstes wrote in post #6163831 (external link)
Hi Tim

I'm just starting out photographing art, I'm also new to photography.

I've done a Google and diden't find much, is this book aimed at, and for film, or will I, as a new digital photographer, get it, without losing the plot with film terminologies.

Thanks

Steve


Tim beat me to it. DAMN!!!

This book has very little to do with film vs digital; rather it is about the behavior of light, and how to manage it to your advantage. It was originally written for film, and the 3rd edition incorporates digital to a full degree.

However, it is definitely an all purpose book.

One chapter is devoted solely to teaching the challenges in photographing 2D objects (like a painting). It is a fantastic resource for understanding the bases here.

Having said that, I would guess a book specifically about photographing art is not a bad book either.

Now, to the op -- my recommendation would bet to invest some money in some instruction here. Perhaps invest in having someone who shoots film assist you with the first day of the shoot. If a local pro doesn't feel like you are encroaching on his business, they are more than willing to help.

I twice have spent 75% of my fees on "location learning" on commercial jobs. I hire the pro to "be my assistant", and learn more in that one day then I honestly could have in an entire semester of class. Its a serious investment, but one I made gladly and has paid huge dividends for me. At the end of the day, the customer got a product of a much higher quality than I would have mustered on my own, I have made a new friend, and put a little money in my pocket to boot. Not bad.

Shooting slides is NOTHING like shooting digital, as there is NO margin for error! Miss by a 1/3 stop -- too bad. Misframe? Tough. Don't be afraid, but be aware.


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superstes
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Aug 23, 2008 17:10 |  #19

mattograph

Thanks for taking the time to explain, and $20 wont break the bank.

And your reply to topsyturvy6234 makes top sense too.

Nice one.

Steve




  
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mattograph
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Aug 23, 2008 17:14 |  #20

superstes wrote in post #6164015 (external link)
mattograph

Thanks for taking the time to explain, and $20 wont break the bank.

And your reply to topsyturvy6234 makes top sense too.

Nice one.

Steve

Thanks. We try.:)


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Gentleman ­ Villain
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Aug 23, 2008 19:11 as a reply to  @ mattograph's post |  #21
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copy art is stupid simple...it's one of the easiest things to shoot as long as all of the elements are in place.

Just set up two heads with bare reflectors. Put one head on each side of the camera and angle them towards the artwork to reduce as much glare as possible. Don't put the lights too close to the artwork...pull them back so that the light will be very even. Then put a polarizer filter on each head. Make certain that the polarizers on both heads are facing the exact same direction.

Make certain that the artwork is level. Then setup the camera so that it is perfectly level with the artwork. Make certain that the camera lens is pointed to the dead center of the artwork. Put a polarizer on the lens and dial out the remaining reflections. That's it...done

Try and shoot the artwork at the optimum aperture of your lens...(which is probably around F 8.0)....You don't want to use any smart sharpen or USM in photoshop because that will destroy the microcontrast in the artwork. Also, try and use a whibal or something that will help attain a neutral color balance.




  
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mattograph
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Aug 23, 2008 19:59 |  #22

Gentleman Villain wrote in post #6164570 (external link)
copy art is stupid simple...it's one of the easiest things to shoot as long as all of the elements are in place.

Just set up two heads with bare reflectors. Put one head on each side of the camera and angle them towards the artwork to reduce as much glare as possible. Don't put the lights too close to the artwork...pull them back so that the light will be very even. Then put a polarizer filter on each head. Make certain that the polarizers on both heads are facing the exact same direction.

Make certain that the artwork is level. Then setup the camera so that it is perfectly level with the artwork. Make certain that the camera lens is pointed to the dead center of the artwork. Put a polarizer on the lens and dial out the remaining reflections. That's it...done

Try and shoot the artwork at the optimum aperture of your lens...(which is probably around F 8.0)....You don't want to use any smart sharpen or USM in photoshop because that will destroy the microcontrast in the artwork. Also, try and use a whibal or something that will help attain a neutral color balance.

And when the polarizing filters catch fire?:)


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Gentleman ­ Villain
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Aug 24, 2008 02:12 |  #23
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mattograph wrote in post #6164849 (external link)
And when the polarizing filters catch fire?:)

The last time I photographed copy art...I gaf taped the polarizer filters onto some bogen arms and put them on their own stands. Then I set the filter stands about 9 inches or so away from the front of the strobe heads. That allowed me to use the modeling lights without any worries.




  
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