OK, here is some initial feedback from people following some feelers I put out last week:
(From Hedrus) My suggestion for Botswana: Go thru Caprivi and stay on the Kwando river at Nambwa community campsite. From there you travel via Katima Malilu and then over to Botswana. Start at Chobe, then Savuti and end at Moremi. Definitely Moremi. Any of camps except South Gate. Not less than 5 days. Then 5 Days or at least 3 Days Savuti (usually Lion and Elephant interaction). Then from there 3-5 days Chobe, camping at Ihaha. Your timing of year is Perfect. Keep in mind you will have to be a hardened camper, Lots and lots of dust and awful ablutions. O yes. Boat trip at Chobe can also be nice.You can easily arrange one for your group alone without going on the big sundowner ones.
(From Marcell) I agree that south gate is a no - no. I personally love xaxanaxa and kwai river camp sites. At xaxanaxa you camp literally on the swamp, there is also 1 or 2 boats that you can book to go on the okovango at sundown. just dont camp infront of the hippo paths, because they emerge at night to graze, and you dont want a hippo wandering through ur tent/camp. We saw an abundence of lion at kwai river last time round. And also look out for the notorious elephant-hunting lion pack, although i think they are usually spotted in chobe region.
(From Big Al) If you do go to Tsodilo Hills, there's a campsite at the northern turnoff to the hills called Shakawe Lodge which I can highly recommend. It's actually quite pleasant viewing the swamps away from the madness of the eastern side. The people running the place took us for a birdwatching boat trip for a whole afternoon in exchange for filling the tanks of the boat from our jerrycans.
This advice seems to reflect my initial reading about park options and I will check these ideas over the weekend via guide books. An alternative to Ihaha is staying outside the park around the town of Kasani which has plenty of options. Still not sure if we can go in for day trips and, if not, how we'd head to Moremi or Maun ... probably means head South to the Pans and then up ... but better to miss Chobe if we can't drive through, and focus on Moremi and Panhandle areas.



