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Thread started 23 Aug 2006 (Wednesday) 23:32
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Mixed Lighting Issues Solved By Using RAW Format!!!

 
jfrancho
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Aug 23, 2006 23:32 |  #1

So, I have a decent picture, but I used a flash to illuminate the subject. In order to capture some ambient light, I bumped the ISO up a bit, and set up a little bit slower exposure. I shot in RAW format, so I basically set a ballpark temp, and shoot away. I got home, started setting up the raw conversion, get everything where I wanted it, and made my image files. During RAW conversion, I started to notice something bugging me about the picture. The lighting - it's mixed. There is a combination of flash illumination and weird fluorescent lighting. No matter what you do, something is off. The best decision is to adjust the WB for the subject. Since the subject in this picture is a group of people, you don't want them looking like Smurfs!

Here it is:

IMAGE: http://plan-b.smugmug.com/photos/90287114-L.jpg

I actually like this photo a lot. It's nothing special - Al Meilutis, from The Polka Bandstand Show on Jazz 90.1 (external link) greeting fans during their 25th On Air Anniversary Open House. I just couldn't help but to think it could be better. I was really thinking how I should slapped the 35 f/2 on and shot at ISO 800-1600 and lived with the noise. It wouldn't be that bad, since these were going up on the website. Live and learn.

So I thought about this for a while, and I thought, what do I do with RAW files that don't contain enough range? Well I 'bracket and sandwich' or use HDR tools to expand it. Hmmm. I didn't bracket this, but wait! WB has almost no effect on quality of the image data - to a point. Exposure would be affected by different WB settings, but not by much at all. This will work. I'll blend different files from the same RAW source file, each with a WB for a specific part of the image.

Here are the three files I came up with:

Base File (5400/+5):
(DUPLICATE IMAGE)

Ceiling (3300/+10):
IMAGE: http://plan-b.smugmug.com/photos/90287080-L.jpg

Light Fixture (3900/+3):
IMAGE: http://plan-b.smugmug.com/photos/90287095-L.jpg

I used the Base File as the background layer, and Shift-dragged and dropped the other two images on top using the Move tool in Photoshop CS2. For a quick look at how this would look, I clicked on each of the Ceiling and Fixture layers and used Layer > Layer Mask > Hide All to create a layer mask filled with black. This prevents any of the "WB adjusted" layers from showing. I used the Brush Tool with the foreground color set to white to paint on the layer mask where I wasted the WB adjustments to show through. This is a slow, painful process, and I am not a painter. My lack of skill at this kind of thing is what drew me to photography in the first place: all you have to do is push buttons. What I was doing was starting feel like painting. Here is snapshot of that first attempt:

IMAGE: http://plan-b.smugmug.com/photos/90287214-L.jpg

Not bad, the difference between each of the regions corrected WB is a little drastic. By decreasing the Opacity of each layer, I was able to get it closer to a "balanced image."

I decided there had to be a better way. I decided to try running the TLR Professional Mask Toolkit script. Get it here (external link). I mean it. Go and get it. Great tool. I ran the script to create an extra narrow enhanced surface mask. Now, this doesn't automatically apply any of the selections as masks, it stores them as Alpha Channels. So, I clicked on the Ceiling layer, and then used Select > Load Selection... and chose the Alpha Channel I just created from the droplist. Now all I have to do is use Layer > Layer Mask > Reveal Selection to get a layer mask that is mostly black, but all the edges in the picture are white. I figure this way, I could reduce the "painting" to a third grade art class skill level. Coloring in the lines is so much easier. Here is a quick look at my "coloring in the lines" for the light fixtures, in progress.

IMAGE: http://plan-b.smugmug.com/photos/90299802-M.jpg

I did the same thing for Ceiling layer. Once all that was completed, I needed to tone down the edits. Reducing the opacity was enough to fix all that. I flattened (Ctrl-Shift-E), and continued with the rest of my usual workflow: noise reduction, capture sharpen, selective blur/sharpen/haze reduction, cloned out goobers, resize, output sharpen, saved as .jpg. Here is the final product:

IMAGE: http://plan-b.smugmug.com/photos/90287227-L.jpg

Here is another look, side by side:
IMAGE: http://plan-b.smugmug.com/photos/90287114-S.jpg
IMAGE: http://plan-b.smugmug.com/photos/90287227-S.jpg

This is just a fast run with just three WB files. By rights, I should have used about seven. Another time. I like it better now, and I like the technique. Someone needs to come out with a program like Photomatix that does WB blends. Call it WhiBalMatix. Make a million dollars. Any one is free to add suggestions about how to improve the technique. For me, it's still a little raw. Get it? Raw.


  
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jfrancho
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Aug 25, 2006 14:49 |  #2

So, no one has ever run into this? Or is the after not dramatic enough?



  
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In2Photos
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Aug 25, 2006 14:52 as a reply to  @ jfrancho's post |  #3

jfrancho wrote:
So, no one has ever run into this? Or is the after not dramatic enough?

I have. I took some shots for a friend of mine. His great-grandmother was sitting on the couch and the dining room was behind her with the overhead light on in both areas. I used flash to illuminate her better and this caused some funky issues with the wall color in the background. They didn't care so I didn't spend much time on it but I might go back for them and do it now.


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jfrancho
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Aug 25, 2006 14:56 |  #4

Mike, what do you think of the results? It's kind of subtle, and for this picture it really doesn't matter, but it had the issues I wanted to resolve. Maybe I'll have to find, or make up a really bad example of mixed light sources?



  
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René ­ Damkot
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Aug 25, 2006 14:59 |  #5

I usually use a filter in front of the flash to match the flash to the ambient, to avoid this kind of problems.
Apart from that, It doesn't bother me too much.
Also, in your example the group is almost exclusively lit by flash. At least, close enough to my taste...
Nice writeup nontheless. I like the "Coloring in the lines is so much easier" part :lol:


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jfrancho
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Aug 25, 2006 15:02 |  #6

René, do you use those gel samples that I've heard of, or did you get some specific toy for your flash?



  
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René ­ Damkot
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Aug 25, 2006 15:28 |  #7

Still waiting for the Roscolux booklet to arrive if that's what you mean. Seems like the Netherlands is a very remote place indeed :rolleyes:
I do have a few loose sheets of filter gels though. Always nice to know a few light technicians who also like an experiment ;)


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jfrancho
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Aug 25, 2006 15:30 |  #8

Roscolux, that's it. I'll have to get some samples before they run out.



  
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In2Photos
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Aug 25, 2006 19:47 as a reply to  @ jfrancho's post |  #9

jfrancho wrote:
Mike, what do you think of the results? It's kind of subtle, and for this picture it really doesn't matter, but it had the issues I wanted to resolve. Maybe I'll have to find, or make up a really bad example of mixed light sources?

They are subtle in this shot, but are noticeable. I think because you isolated the subjects well and the difference in WB behind them is far enough away from them that it didn't bother me in the original. Maybe I will send you that shot I described if you can't find a more difficult one.

If you also check out the flash forum there is a thread about the Roscolux filters with a link to ordering the samples for free. I placed my order earlier this week.


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jfrancho
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Aug 25, 2006 22:32 as a reply to  @ In2Photos's post |  #10

In2Photos wrote:
They are subtle in this shot, but are noticeable. I think because you isolated the subjects well and the difference in WB behind them is far enough away from them that it didn't bother me in the original. Maybe I will send you that shot I described if you can't find a more difficult one.

You could also try it out yourself :) I wouldn't mind at all if you posted the before and after here.



  
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amonline
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Aug 26, 2006 03:49 |  #11

CS2's PS Highlight feature could have done that in basically a click. Just FYI. ;)




  
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Aug 26, 2006 10:36 as a reply to  @ jfrancho's post |  #12

jfrancho wrote:
You could also try it out yourself :) I wouldn't mind at all if you posted the before and after here.

I went back and looked at the pics that I was referring to and realized that there wasn't as much work involved as your shot had. I was able to simply make two versions of the image for foreground and background WB and then use the layer mask and paint the background back into the image corrected for foreground.

Here is the two images, one set to tungsten and the other was custom WB by clicking on her shirt collar.


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Here is the image after using the layer mask.


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jfrancho
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Aug 29, 2006 15:29 as a reply to  @ amonline's post |  #13

amonline wrote:
CS2's PS Highlight feature could have done that in basically a click. Just FYI. ;)

If you are referring to the Shadows and Highlights adjustment, then I suggest you revisit the expamples here. Dynamic range isn't the issue we're trying resolve. We're fixing mixed color temperature lighting issues that the color slider in S&H can't resolve. Or am I missing some other tool available in 16 bpc mode?



  
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amonline
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Aug 30, 2006 06:46 as a reply to  @ jfrancho's post |  #14

jfrancho wrote:
If you are referring to the Shadows and Highlights adjustment, then I suggest you revisit the expamples here. Dynamic range isn't the issue we're trying resolve. We're fixing mixed color temperature lighting issues that the color slider in S&H can't resolve. Or am I missing some other tool available in 16 bpc mode?

Erm... actually, this thread has dealt with two different issues... however, I was referring to the OP; where the S/H command would very well have produced the acceptable results. FWIW, I think the original image (OP) was fine by itself. Mixed lighting in a warm and personal setting like that improves the image's warmth and coziness to me. I would have never messed with it that much as only a photographer would notice the difference... and that if they were presented side by side. ;)

Obviously, if you are referring to the other image that got tackled, then yes; I agree. The second image in this post (grandma) however, took on a drastic improvement. There is still some hair highlighting that needs to be dealt with; but generally a great improvement overall.




  
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jfrancho
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Aug 30, 2006 07:42 |  #15

The OP is a big, smelly jerk. Anyway, maybe you missed this part:

jfrancho wrote:
It's kind of subtle, and for this picture it really doesn't matter, but it had the issues I wanted to resolve.

I'm referring to the technique. It probably isn't the best example photo, but it was what I was working on at the time. Shadows and Highlights didn't seem to do what I wanted in this case, also I couldn't find "the one click button" - where is this one click fix button? A better metod -- if you want to do the fix later in the workflow would be a Curves adjustment with a layer mask. You can use a temporary Threshold layer to determine white and black points, and then the Color Selection to find a good midtone grey, or just click around for it. Then you can paint back on the Curves mask, or create your own.

Mike's photo clearly shows that the technique works, produces results, is non destructive, and is relatively simple. S/H alone doesn't have this functionality, and applies it's effect globally to the image. It is a better tool for times when going back to the raw file is an impossibility, or a quick fix of exposure issues when a deadline is more important than absolute image quality.

Maybe I'm wrong. Feel free to post a before/after with mixed lighting that you were able to resolve with S/H. I welcome all kinds of solutions to this thread.



  
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Mixed Lighting Issues Solved By Using RAW Format!!!
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