how do I get a photo to look like this:
The lights are "trailing" yet the subject stays in focus.
I am a beginning photographer and I would like to learn all i can about everything
dro524 Hatchling 4 posts Joined Sep 2006 More info | Sep 07, 2006 22:25 | #1 how do I get a photo to look like this: The lights are "trailing" yet the subject stays in focus. I am a beginning photographer and I would like to learn all i can about everything
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lostdoggy King Duffus 4,787 posts Joined Aug 2004 Location: Queens, NY More info | Sep 07, 2006 22:45 | #2 slow shutter and shakey hands.
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Wilt Reader's Digest Condensed version of War and Peace [POTN Vol 1] More info | Sep 07, 2006 22:50 | #3 As lostdoggy says. It generally requires fairly dark scenes, so that the lights in the amps etc. will expose, but the equipment that they are in is left somewhat 'invisible' except for the light provided by the brief burst of light from the flash which allows the equipment to be seen, but without blurred edges because they were previously dark. You need to give me OK to edit your image and repost! Keep POTN alive and well with member support https://photography-on-the.net/forum/donate.php
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lostdoggy King Duffus 4,787 posts Joined Aug 2004 Location: Queens, NY More info | Sep 07, 2006 22:54 | #4 I think it also needs to have second curtain sync for it work.
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Bob_A Cream of the Crop More info | Sep 07, 2006 22:54 | #5 If you use flash with a slow shutterspeed when the room light is bright enough (or you have the iso pumped up) you will get this ghosting effect. It can be pretty cool for the right type of shots. Bob
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Wilt Reader's Digest Condensed version of War and Peace [POTN Vol 1] More info | Bob_A wrote: If you use flash with a slow shutterspeed when the room light is bright enough (or you have the iso pumped up) you will get this ghosting effect. It can be pretty cool for the right type of shots. Note that if the room is dimly lit and flash is the main source of light then you can set the shutterspeed pretty low and you won't see any ghosting since the flash burst is so quick. bob, if the equipment power indicators are sufficiently bright, and the lens is open enough, they WILL register in the image by themselves. Separately the flash provides the main illumination for the equipment itself. Where the ambient illumination is bright enough, while the shutter is open even this will register somewhat, and if the camera is shakey you get blurry ghosting (like the upper amp and speaker in the photo) but where the ambient illumination is low only the flash exposure will register (as in the lower parts of the amp and speakers and equipment packing boxes) lostdoggy wrote: I think it also needs to have second curtain sync for it work. Not in the case where you can't really tell where the motion starts and where it ends in the path because telltale clues are missing. In this particular you could have flashed first, then moved with an open shutter, or you could move with the open shutter first and then flashed. (car headllights behind the car moving toward you = rear curtain, vs. headlights in front of the car moving toward you = front curtain) The end result would be similar in either case with this photo since the equipment doesn't move, and we have no other clues to figure this one out. You need to give me OK to edit your image and repost! Keep POTN alive and well with member support https://photography-on-the.net/forum/donate.php
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lostdoggy King Duffus 4,787 posts Joined Aug 2004 Location: Queens, NY More info | Sep 07, 2006 23:24 | #7 This is just a maybe:
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Bob_A Cream of the Crop More info | Wilt wrote: bob, if the equipment power indicators are sufficiently bright, and the lens is open enough, they WILL register in the image by themselves. Separately the flash provides the main illumination for the equipment itself. Where the ambient illumination is bright enough, while the shutter is open even this will register somewhat, and if the camera is shakey you get blurry ghosting (like the upper amp and speaker in the photo) but where the ambient illumination is low only the flash exposure will register (as in the lower parts of the amp and speakers and equipment packing boxes) Exactly, which is what I meant, but you have stated it more clearly. Bob
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ok so basically what i have to do is use the flash and turn down to a slower shutter speed (1/15th?) and...shake my hands?
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A01 Senior Member 522 posts Joined Jun 2006 Location: Sydney More info | lostdoggy wrote: I think it also needs to have second curtain sync for it work. Thats what im thinking, there are SLIGHT signs of the guy moving there so im guessing thats what they used. Aaron
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Wilt Reader's Digest Condensed version of War and Peace [POTN Vol 1] More info | A01 wrote: Thats what im thinking, there are SLIGHT signs of the guy moving there so im guessing thats what they used. All we know is that You need to give me OK to edit your image and repost! Keep POTN alive and well with member support https://photography-on-the.net/forum/donate.php
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I just want to know if the trails are possible with just a 35mm camera and a flash. Cause that is all i have. Here is another picture of what i am trying to get at:
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PacAce Cream of the Crop 26,900 posts Likes: 40 Joined Feb 2003 Location: Keystone State, USA More info | Sep 09, 2006 17:22 | #13 Yes, it is but you won't be able to see the results of your exposures until you get the film developed. ...Leo
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i know that
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PacAce Cream of the Crop 26,900 posts Likes: 40 Joined Feb 2003 Location: Keystone State, USA More info | dro524 wrote: i know that Sorry. The point I was trying to make is that you should try to figure out what settings would be best to use before you go shooting with the film so that you'll have a better chance of getting some "successful" shots. I just tried with my digital camera and it's not as easy as it seems. I had to do it more than a couple of times to not just get the camera settings right but to get the a reasonable light trail as well as getting the flash to be just right, too. Too much flash and it ruins the whole shot. ...Leo
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