Damn it, soft sigma 120-300 f/2.8

The lens seems OK, however, I've yet to see such a geeky bunch of kids trying to play the game....those 2 shots crack me up....pardon me for loughing like mad.

windoze wrote in post #1999414

Aperture: f/2.8 ISO: 800 Focal Length: 300mm (guess: 318mm in 35mm) Exposure Time: 0.0002s (1/4000) Flash: Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode Exposure Program: Aperture priority

If that was taken from about 40m away you've only got about 90cm of focus depth to play with there.
The camera/lens better be spot on with it's focus.

NordieBoy wrote in post #1999576
If that was taken from about 40m away you've only got about 90cm of focus depth to play with there.
The camera/lens better be spot on with it's focus.

so what your saying is, the lens is Spot " on " or Spot " off "?


troy

windoze wrote in post #1999349
so are these typical of the sigma 120-300 f/2.8 with canon 20D
( in unexperienced hands ) ?


troy

was hoping for a few more experienced users to share their opinions...


troy

Is it soft with static targets at the same ranges/settings?

NordieBoy wrote in post #2000517
Is it soft with static targets at the same ranges/settings?

havent done any tests like that yet. I did shoot today ( as you commented on them ) but i didnt know what you meant? Were you saying it was spot on or it was off ( referring to the images ) or were you just making a statement about dof?

im trying to decide if i need to exchange the lens, or just "work on my technique " a lot more!


troy

troy, check your PM.

windoze wrote in post #2000537
havent done any tests like that yet. I did shoot today ( as you commented on them ) but i didnt know what you meant? Were you saying it was spot on or it was off ( referring to the images ) or were you just making a statement about dof?

Just that if the focus was only 50cm out at 40m it would look oof at f2.8

It should be a nice sharp lens with no excuses though.
If it is sharper with static shots at the same range etc then it may be the camera but if it's slightly oof then it would point more to the lens.
Especially if other lenses are good on that camera.

ed rader wrote in post #1999241
i'm about to give up on AI servo too. i've yet to see any real benefit from the function.

You're obviously not a sports shooter. Trying to get a burst of shots (all in focus) with player(s) moving would be quite a challenge without it. I'd say 99% of all professional sports shooters use Servo.

Take a look at the feet of the football player. That is sharp. Either the subject was moving a lot or was misfocused

Quote:
Originally Posted by ed rader
i'm about to give up on AI servo too. i've yet to see any real benefit from the function.
You're obviously not a sports shooter. Trying to get a burst of shots (all in focus) with player(s) moving would be quite a challenge without it. I'd say 99% of all professional sports shooters use Servo.

well, im certainly no sports shooter! Im just a proud dad who wants to take better pictures of his son playing soccer. but i gotta tell ya, i tried using Av mode, Burst, AI Servo and everyone was OOF. But in my case - it can most definetly be attributed to user error. So, maybe you can help me too..... How do you best use servo eg: conditions, technique - anyhting would be helpful and appreciated!


troy

windoze wrote in post #2002147
well, im certainly no sports shooter! Im just a proud dad who wants to take better pictures of his son playing soccer. but i gotta tell ya, i tried using Av mode, Burst, AI Servo and everyone was OOF. But in my case - it can most definetly be attributed to user error. So, maybe you can help me too..... How do you best use servo eg: conditions, technique - anyhting would be helpful and appreciated!

For shooting sports and using AI-Servo, the best tip is to use the back button (*) for focusing. I can't remember the custom function off the top of my head, but it changes the focusing from the shutter to the back button. This way you can track your subject without having to hold the shutter halfway down.

I also suggest all-point focusing rather than just center point. If you use just center point, you have to be much more accurate in your holding and panning of your subject. With all points, the center point is used first and if your subject moves out of the center point, the other points will lock and track your subject.

I shoot 85% of the time in M-mode, but if not then it's Av-mode for sure.

Finally, practice. The more you shoot, the better you will get.

Gatorboy wrote in post #2001932
You're obviously not a sports shooter. Trying to get a burst of shots (all in focus) with player(s) moving would be quite a challenge without it. I'd say 99% of all professional sports shooters use Servo.

you're right i am not a professional sports shooter. i'll bet you 99% of professional sports shooters don't use the 20d either .

ed rader

ed rader wrote in post #2002908
you're right i am not a professional sports shooter. i'll bet you 99% of professional sports shooters don't use the 20d either .

ed rader

Good point ed.Bye the way,for action I allways use A1 servo.