Nifty (50mm 1.8) Sharpness problem?

Also, what is with these flower shots (this is in my gallery btw if you want to see the 100%), that are coming out all dull and stuff? I mean the flower I focused on. Is this an example of where the focus isn't very accurate?

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It's already been hashed out. The 50mm f/1.4 is better in all respects. People shoot professionally with the 50mm f/1.4. Until recently it was the only other option.

OK you're obviously not reading what's being posted. I'm done.

That's the thing about the ultrasonic motor. Canon advertises it as "quiet" but not much is said about focus accuracy, which is more important. I've gotten to the point where "No USM MEANS NO GO" because I value the AF accuracy. If I wanted MF, I'd own something drool-inspiring from Zeiss or Leica with an EOS adapter

cdi-ink.com wrote in post #2092055
It's already been hashed out. The 50mm f/1.4 is better in all respects. People shoot professionally with the 50mm f/1.4. Until recently it was the only other option.

Ah. I see. Well, I don't know if I'm willing to pay the premium, and I don't know how useful such an inconsistent lens will be for me. Maybe I'm just out of luck and will have to hope the 85 1.8 does a decent job for me and that the tamron 28-75 I get is a sharp copy that is good around 50mm.

Lightstream wrote in post #2092060
That's the thing about the ultrasonic motor. Canon advertises it as "quiet" but not much is said about focus accuracy, which is more important. I've gotten to the point where "No USM MEANS NO GO" because I value the AF accuracy. If I wanted MF, I'd own something drool-inspiring from Zeiss or Leica with an EOS adapter

I see. Guess I'm sort of out of luck anyway.

Er, sorry CDI, I forgot to add to that other post: "Is this an example of where the focus isn't very accurate?"

JaGWiRE wrote in post #2092054
Also, what is with these flower shots (this is in my gallery btw if you want to see the 100%), that are coming out all dull and stuff? I mean the flower I focused on. Is this an example of where the focus isn't very accurate?

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This one is fine - it's just that the auto focus decided to focus on the front edge of that leaf. The area covered by the auto focus 'points' is actually quite large - much larger than the square shown on the viewfinder - and the camera is free to focus on anything in that area.

gcogger wrote in post #2092070
This one is fine - it's just that the auto focus decided to focus on the front edge of that leaf. The area covered by the auto focus 'points' is actually quite large - much larger than the square shown on the viewfinder - and the camera is free to focus on anything in that area.

Oh? Really. So maybe that explains a few things for me. What do you mean by front edge (I'm a little slow, I think you mean the right side, but not sure?) Is there anything I can do to control more so where it focuses?

Yes, the right hand side of the leaf (as you look at the pic) seems to be in focus.

There's not really much you can do to narrow down where the camera will focus You just need to be aware of how the camera works. Here's an old pic (from a 10D?) of the size (in red) of the af sensors - I'm sure a 30D will be similar.

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gcogger wrote in post #2092855
Yes, the right hand side of the leaf (as you look at the pic) seems to be in focus.

There's not really much you can do to narrow down where the camera will focus You just need to be aware of how the camera works. Here's an old pic (from a 10D?) of the size (in red) of the af sensors - I'm sure a 30D will be similar.

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Interesting. From this I gather that if I would use any focus point but the center one, the range of area it can choose from is greatly narrowed? Also, I supose holding the camera further away with a prime lens would also help?

JaGWiRE wrote in post #2092888
Interesting. From this I gather that if I would use any focus point but the center one, the range of area it can choose from is greatly narrowed? Also, I supose holding the camera further away with a prime lens would also help?

That's a misleading diagram...in that it can be interpreted incorrectly. The red marks indicate that the sensor is either horizontal, vertical, or cross hatched. The cross hatched center is more accurate because it is more sensitive.

cdi-ink.com wrote in post #2092898
That's a misleading diagram...in that it can be interpreted incorrectly. The red marks indicate that the sensor is either horizontal, vertical, or cross hatched. The cross hatched center is more accurate because it is more sensitive.

Okay, I understand. When you say more accurate, you mean out of all the focus points if you are focusing on something specific like that leaf, you'll have the best chance to get the result your looking for using the center AF point?

JaGWiRE wrote in post #2092905
Okay, I understand. When you say more accurate, you mean out of all the focus points if you are focusing on something specific like that leaf, you'll have the best chance to get the result your looking for using the center AF point?

Pretty much, yeah. It'll also hunt a lot less than the other points would in the same lowlight conditions and is more precise for AI Servo tracking, etc.

cdi-ink.com wrote in post #2092911
Pretty much, yeah. It'll also hunt a lot less than the other points would in the same lowlight conditions and is more precise for AI Servo tracking, etc.

Ah, I see. Thanks. You got PM by the way.

JaGWiRE wrote in post #2092913
Ah, I see. Thanks. You got PM by the way.

NP. You already got a response.