NVcameraman Senior Member  263 posts Joined Sep 2007 Location: Saint Robert, MO More info | Here is one of the huge shadows I got from using this set up last week. If I am shooting more from endzones I dont even notice any shadows but this shot was really noticable.  HOSTED PHOTO please log in to view hosted photos in full size. Ben Morrow
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slyone Senior Member 626 posts Joined Sep 2006 Location: Upstate,N.Y. More info | I definitely think the shots this evening were nicer  HOSTED PHOTO please log in to view hosted photos in full size. 40D, 70-200 f/2.8L, Tamron17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di-II, EX-580,Canon 1.4tc
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IODebbie Senior Member  474 posts Likes: 3 Joined May 2007 Location: Southern California More info | Oct 13, 2007 11:10 | #63 I tried it last night. I've just been through my pictures quickly, but I see NO demon eye and very little red eye, which is GREAT! The shadows that it casts on the bleachers and even in the end zone were horrendous though. It seemed like I also got some strange shadows on the faces from the face masks. Overall though, I think I like it! Debbie
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redspyder Senior Member  558 posts Joined Aug 2005 More info | Oct 13, 2007 20:19 | #64 I really like these, and you are soooo right about the moms. I use the same equipment and I think I'm going to try that same setup. Canon 20D and 30D; Canon and SIGMA lenses; Alien Bees 800&400; Canon 420EX&580EX
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MTStringer Goldmember  4,652 posts Likes: 6 Joined May 2006 Location: Channelview, Tx More info | Oct 14, 2007 00:14 | #65 For some reason, I just discovered this thread. Boy, I could have used this setup last night. I measured the light at ISO 3200 - 1/25 sec @ f/2.8. It's a Christian school with a total of ten lights per side of the field and none in the endzones. I used my flash in the hot shoe mount and got some red eye I'll have to work on, but it was either that or nothing.
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slyone Senior Member 626 posts Joined Sep 2006 Location: Upstate,N.Y. More info | I think this solution will work out best for all those dimly lit fields. My only big cost to get this setup working was the OC-E3 cord. I had read possible issues with the much less expensive OC-E2 cord and since I'm a beginner in the photography world, I didn't need any further issues concerning equipment!LOL! Now I'll have to see about obtaining a suitable flash bracket for above the camera as well now that I have the cord. Who knows...maybe I'll even go wireless one day and actually reach the advanced-novice status too.... 40D, 70-200 f/2.8L, Tamron17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di-II, EX-580,Canon 1.4tc
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KrautFed Member 119 posts Joined Aug 2007 More info | Not to threadjack, but I tried this for the first time Friday night. I love the faces, but HATE the shadows.
Immediately following... QB #7 "I don't got it" as #51 rolls over the ball. (they didn't recover and turned over the fumble)
Unlucky #7 again losing a snap and turning the ball over.
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Oct 17, 2007 10:05 | #68 I'm not understanding how the flash below the camera gives better results.
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Oct 17, 2007 10:18 | #69 sorry, I didn't see the first page of this thread.
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slyone Senior Member 626 posts Joined Sep 2006 Location: Upstate,N.Y. More info | I find when using flash below as opposed to on camera..I just don't get severe redeye or demon eye. 40D, 70-200 f/2.8L, Tamron17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di-II, EX-580,Canon 1.4tc
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dmwierz Goldmember  2,376 posts Likes: 2 Joined May 2005 Location: Chicago Area, IL More info | Oct 19, 2007 13:57 | #71 slyone wrote in post #4154859  I find when using flash below as opposed to on camera..I just don't get severe redeye or demon eye. I've been using ETTL but am thinking of trying manual maybe at 1/8 or 1/16? As I understand(:rolleyes  this will tend to add a smaller amount of "fill light"? OT kinda..my HS soccer tends to be to much flash reflecting off their face/skin when up close...maybe for football it would tend to reduce the shadows?? Any thoughts to all this.. sly, http://www.denniswierzbicki.com
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slyone Senior Member 626 posts Joined Sep 2006 Location: Upstate,N.Y. More info | Thanks Dennis! well..in that case I should leave it on ETTL. Is there any adjustments neede or checked to increase flash/duration? Guess I should just set shutter speed to 1/250 and the flash will produce the 1/800 or equivalent. 40D, 70-200 f/2.8L, Tamron17-50mm f/2.8 XR Di-II, EX-580,Canon 1.4tc
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namasste Cream of the Crop  6,911 posts Likes: 140 Joined Jul 2007 Location: NE Ohio More info | Oct 19, 2007 14:34 | #73 agreed, no mom in the world could resist buying that one!!! Scott Evans Photography
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dmwierz Goldmember 2,376 posts Likes: 2 Joined May 2005 Location: Chicago Area, IL More info | Oct 19, 2007 16:13 | #74 slyone wrote in post #4155194 Thanks Dennis! well..in that case I should leave it on ETTL. Is there any adjustments neede or checked to increase flash/duration? Guess I should just set shutter speed to 1/250 and the flash will produce the 1/800 or equivalent. sly,
For all those thinking about using HSS and increasing your shutter speed this way, let me past something from a post of a couple weeks ago. I've experiemted with HSS and prefer "normal" sync speed for the following reasons: Recycle time is much better Flash power is substantially higher Batteries last longer To remind folks, if you expose for flash properly, your flash duration should be doing the "action freezing" , not the shutter speed, so you're getting the benefit of 1/800s action stopping (the duration of a 580EX at full power - at reduced power the duration is even less) AND all the things listed above. HSS is not a solution for night action photography. From an emitted power standpoint, for example, if the flash has a Guide Number of 190 with normal camera sync speed, if you were to employ HSS mode, at say 1/500th of a second and 1/4 or 1/8th power, the flash's GN is reduced to single digits. This is not good. In addition, and somewhat ironically, HSS can actually reduce your ability to freeze action. In HSS mode flash, the flash unit emits pulses of light over a longer period of time in order to approxmiate a longer-duration burst of light. In other words the flash tries to emit the equivalent amount of light energy as what would be emitted by a regular flash, but does so by emitting a series of longer, lower intensity bursts. The flash burst under HSS is not as short in duration as regular flash sync, so you can’t freeze motion as effectively, even with high shutter speeds. The mode is called high-speed sync since it allows shutter synchronization with higher shutter speeds, not that it allows one to take high-speed photographs. HSS has its place, but for the most part is useful for shooting with fill flash outdoors with large apertures (like outdoor portraits). Under normal conditions you wouldn't be able to shoot outdoors and use fill flash unless you stop down the lens and/or use very low ISO. In some cases, even if you do this you can't get appropriate exposure because the ambient light is just too bright. HSS provides a method to still have the flash function in these conditions.
http://www.denniswierzbicki.com
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Sauk Goldmember  4,149 posts Likes: 1 Joined Oct 2007 Location: Sandy, UT More info | I am shooting with a flash tonight that from others on the board is down on my monopod but in front not to the side of my pod.
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My setup was Nikon D50 on monopod. I had a SB-800 mounted to my light stand->hotshoe adapter (for adjustable angle beyond just the SB800). I then zip tied the adapter to my monopod with a sock sandwiched between the adapter and monopod for protection. I triggered my SB-800 via an ebay trigger and custom sync cord. The SB-800 was 15-18" below the lens.
