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FORUMS General Gear Talk Flash and Studio Lighting 
Thread started 18 Oct 2006 (Wednesday) 08:19
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Canon MT-24EX Tips?

 
convergent
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Oct 18, 2006 08:19 |  #1

I just got an MT-24EX Macro Dual Flash yesterday, as part of a rebate purchase, and I'm looking for any pearls of wisdom that are out there on using it. I plan to use it with a 5D and 100mm Macro lens. I will be using it for traditional macro shooting, and I also hope to use it as a "quick and dirty" mini-studio for doing Ebay pictures for my wife (vs. setting up studio lights, softbox, etc.). My initial playing with it has left be being very pleased with the purchase, but I'd also like to shortcut the learning curve.

So what can you guys tell me about the MT-24?


Mike
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Lester ­ Wareham
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Oct 18, 2006 11:12 |  #2

There is not a lot to say.

I set up for a standard 4:1 lighting ratio most times and just move this from side to side for the composition, and adjust the heads rotation angle as needed.

Make sure the head tilt is correct for the focal length and magnification from the table p82 in the manual. This is vary straight forward if you just use it with the 100mm macro.

One hot tip if you don't know already is to set CF-9 (p83) on the flash that permits the focus lamps to be turned on with a double tap of the shutter button. Very handy with the 100mm in poor light and a god send with the MP-E 65mm at higher magnifications.

I use mine with metal hydride rechargables. A charge lasts a good long time.

You can use the one or both heads of the bracket, perhaps to increase spead or put a head behind the subject. Don't often do this except for shooting through glass fish tanks or vivarium.

There is a special metal hood available  (external link)for use with the MT-24 and the MP-E 65mm if you ever get one.

IMAGE: http://www.zen20934.zen.co.uk/photography/macroMTF/MPE%20Hood.jpg

Tests suggest that there is little obvious advantage to using the hood unless a flash head is dismounted to use as a backlight, except possibly at 5X. Test Shots (external link)

Lighting ratio tests (external link).

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phillipsart
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Oct 18, 2006 21:14 |  #3

Hi, I totaly agree with Lester.
I have owned the MT 24EX for about 6 months now.
Most times I use a lighting ratio of 4.1 Usually setting the stronger flash of the two up higher. Although at times I use the flash directly from the side. & setting my camera to give a warm result that way it looks like late afternoon lighting. I do like this effect. I shoot only in RAW mode allowing me to adjust the warm tones to my likeing.
The flash does a wonderfull job on my 100mm Macro lens. I recently purchased the 3 Kenko extension tubes. Used them with my Macro lens the other day. & the results where great with the macro flash. I would like to purchase the MP-E 65, But at this stage the budget will not allow me to.

I also like taking macro shots with backlighting. I take one flash of the front element on the lens & hand hold the flash behind the subject just of to one side with the flash attached to the lens. I set the hand held flash at the back as the main light source & use the flash on the lens as a fill in. I get great results using this method. But it does get a little tireing after a while holding the flash with one hand & handholding the camera with the other.

I take all macro shots handheld. As I usually only photograph insects. Tripods just get in my way & take to long to setup. with the flash it makes macro shots of insects a lot easier.




  
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convergent
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Oct 19, 2006 08:08 |  #4

Thanks guys.

That double click trick is very cool, but I only wish it turned on the modeling light lamps, and didn't strobe the flash. I love the modeling lamps but they always turn off just about the time I'm getting to where I want, then I have to turn them back on which causes some things to move when I'm hand holding.

Philipsart, I am thinking of the tubes too. I was debating getting the Canon ones, or the Kenko set which is a great value. Do you see any particular reason to pay more for the two Canon tubes, vs. the Kenko set? These just let you focus closer, right?

I love backlighting and shoot that way a lot for sports. Can you show me some examples of this type of lighting with the MT-24EX?

Thanks.


Mike
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135L f/2 - 100 f/2.8 Macro - Siggy 15 f/2.8 Fisheye - RF TC1.4 - EF TC1.4 II - TC2 III - (2) 600EX-RT - ST-E3-RT

  
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Oct 19, 2006 08:15 |  #5

Post some pics convergent! ... I'd really love to have this flash :)


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Oct 19, 2006 08:38 |  #6

whiskaz wrote in post #2140807 (external link)
Post some pics convergent! ... I'd really love to have this flash :)

Well, I just got it yesterday so I really haven't had a chance to do much with it... other than whats around my office. Not a lot of bugs are left crawling around in the Northeastern US. I primarily bought it now, because I wanted something to boost my 5D purchase to a double rebate... and this was on my list.

Here is one... (There are a few more here...
http://www.northeastfo​to.com/forums/showthre​ad.php?t=5620 (external link) )

IMAGE: http://www.northeastfoto.com/gallery/files/3/2/2/web_IMG_1739.jpg

Mike
R6 II - RF 100-500L f/4.5-7.1 IS - EF 17-40L f/4 - 24-70L f/2.8 II - 70-200L f/2.8 IS II -
135L f/2 - 100 f/2.8 Macro - Siggy 15 f/2.8 Fisheye - RF TC1.4 - EF TC1.4 II - TC2 III - (2) 600EX-RT - ST-E3-RT

  
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Oct 19, 2006 09:17 |  #7

convergent wrote in post #2140786 (external link)
Thanks guys.

That double click trick is very cool, but I only wish it turned on the modeling light lamps, and didn't strobe the flash. I love the modeling lamps but they always turn off just about the time I'm getting to where I want, then I have to turn them back on which causes some things to move when I'm hand holding.

Philipsart, I am thinking of the tubes too. I was debating getting the Canon ones, or the Kenko set which is a great value. Do you see any particular reason to pay more for the two Canon tubes, vs. the Kenko set? These just let you focus closer, right?

I love backlighting and shoot that way a lot for sports. Can you show me some examples of this type of lighting with the MT-24EX?

Thanks.

The double click does turn on the modelling lamps (called focussing lamps in the manual I think).

The same as if you push the lamp button on the flash, the lamps stay on for 20 seconds and go off if you fire the flash before that.

The flash strobes when you depress the depth of field preview button same as all the other Canon flashes.

I had problems with my Keno tubes and switched to Canon which are much better. Expensive though. Story is here https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=186161


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Oct 19, 2006 09:28 |  #8

Lester Wareham wrote in post #2141042 (external link)
The double click does turn on the modelling lamps (called focussing lamps in the manual I think).

The same as if you push the lamp button on the flash, the lamps stay on for 20 seconds and go off if you fire the flash before that.

The flash strobes when you depress the depth of field preview button same as all the other Canon flashes.

I had problems with my Keno tubes and switched to Canon which are much better. Expensive though. Story is here https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=186161

OK... Now I get it. I had my focus tied to the * button and I think that was the problem. Anyways, when CF9 set, the * button strobes the flash... which is also handy. I now hav the lamps coming on with the shutter release double tap. I am loving it even more, as that was the only minor annoyance I had.

I just posted a few pics on that other thread that show how dramatically you can change the look... 4 pictures in 3 minutes... of something as simple as a pencil. This thing is very cool.


Mike
R6 II - RF 100-500L f/4.5-7.1 IS - EF 17-40L f/4 - 24-70L f/2.8 II - 70-200L f/2.8 IS II -
135L f/2 - 100 f/2.8 Macro - Siggy 15 f/2.8 Fisheye - RF TC1.4 - EF TC1.4 II - TC2 III - (2) 600EX-RT - ST-E3-RT

  
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Oct 19, 2006 09:38 |  #9

So did you have to change your focus button back to the shutter half-press or leave it as the *?

Nice shot btw... veryyyyy tempting. :)


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Lester ­ Wareham
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Oct 19, 2006 09:51 |  #10

convergent wrote in post #2141078 (external link)
OK... Now I get it. I had my focus tied to the * button and I think that was the problem. Anyways, when CF9 set, the * button strobes the flash... which is also handy. I now hav the lamps coming on with the shutter release double tap. I am loving it even more, as that was the only minor annoyance I had.

I just posted a few pics on that other thread that show how dramatically you can change the look... 4 pictures in 3 minutes... of something as simple as a pencil. This thing is very cool.

OK thats good. I use the * to focus also.

I think what is happening when you press the * is the flash is firing a preflash, should only strobe when you stop down.

I almost always manual focus for macro.


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Oct 19, 2006 09:52 |  #11

whiskaz wrote in post #2141117 (external link)
So did you have to change your focus button back to the shutter half-press or leave it as the *?

Nice shot btw... veryyyyy tempting. :)

OK, Now I'm really losing it. I switched back to the * button for focus, and now the * button can be double tapped to turn the modeling lamps on... and no flash strobe. I guess I was confused before. I probably had manual focus on and thought I still had the * focus setup, but didn't. Just out of habbit, I probably hit the *.

So, if the * button is set to AF, then double tapping either the * or the shutter release will turn on the modeling lamps. If the shutter release is set to AF, then the * button strobes the flash, and double tapping the shutter release turns on the modeling lamps.

One thing I've notices is the "double tap" seems to be very inconsistent in terms of how fast or slow you have to tap it. I've tried fast and slow, and sometimes it seems to come right on, and sometimes it takes another tap or two. I'm sure this is just a timing thing I'll eventually get figured out. Regardless, the modeling lamps coming on without having to move my hands is a big help.


Mike
R6 II - RF 100-500L f/4.5-7.1 IS - EF 17-40L f/4 - 24-70L f/2.8 II - 70-200L f/2.8 IS II -
135L f/2 - 100 f/2.8 Macro - Siggy 15 f/2.8 Fisheye - RF TC1.4 - EF TC1.4 II - TC2 III - (2) 600EX-RT - ST-E3-RT

  
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Oct 19, 2006 10:06 |  #12

convergent wrote in post #2141168 (external link)
OK, Now I'm really losing it. I switched back to the * button for focus, and now the * button can be double tapped to turn the modeling lamps on... and no flash strobe. I guess I was confused before. I probably had manual focus on and thought I still had the * focus setup, but didn't. Just out of habbit, I probably hit the *.

So, if the * button is set to AF, then double tapping either the * or the shutter release will turn on the modeling lamps. If the shutter release is set to AF, then the * button strobes the flash, and double tapping the shutter release turns on the modeling lamps.

That makes sense then, the * is FEL, and the flash is firing the pre-flash to set its exposure.

convergent wrote in post #2141168 (external link)
One thing I've notices is the "double tap" seems to be very inconsistent in terms of how fast or slow you have to tap it. I've tried fast and slow, and sometimes it seems to come right on, and sometimes it takes another tap or two. I'm sure this is just a timing thing I'll eventually get figured out. Regardless, the modeling lamps coming on without having to move my hands is a big help.

It can be a bit tricky, you do get better at it but sometimes I get caught out also. Don't forget if you have power save on the flash you need to tap once to wake it up and then double tap.


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Oct 19, 2006 18:59 |  #13

Lester Wareham wrote in post #2141042 (external link)
The double click does turn on the modelling lamps (called focussing lamps in the manual I think).

The same as if you push the lamp button on the flash, the lamps stay on for 20 seconds and go off if you fire the flash before that.

The flash strobes when you depress the depth of field preview button same as all the other Canon flashes.

I had problems with my Keno tubes and switched to Canon which are much better. Expensive though. Story is here https://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=186161

Hi, Yes I did read your post about the Kenko tube problem you had before I purchased mine, But I thought for the price, I will give it a go. I have used the Kenko Tubes a couple of times now, & they are fine for me. I think the button for removing the lens is in a bad spot, very easy to to depress while hold the lens. Is this the problem you had? the button was easily activated while holding the camera. I do have to take extra precautions. There is a very small amount of play in between each kenko tube. But nothing really major. I never tried the Canon Tubes. I am sure they would be of much better quality, But the price difference was just to much for me, & having the 3 tubes really allowed me to get some very high magnification shots with my 100mm Macro lens.




  
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Oct 20, 2006 01:45 |  #14

phillipsart wrote in post #2143176 (external link)
Hi, Yes I did read your post about the Kenko tube problem you had before I purchased mine, But I thought for the price, I will give it a go. I have used the Kenko Tubes a couple of times now, & they are fine for me. I think the button for removing the lens is in a bad spot, very easy to to depress while hold the lens. Is this the problem you had? the button was easily activated while holding the camera. I do have to take extra precautions. There is a very small amount of play in between each kenko tube. But nothing really major. I never tried the Canon Tubes. I am sure they would be of much better quality, But the price difference was just to much for me, & having the 3 tubes really allowed me to get some very high magnification shots with my 100mm Macro lens.

Yes they sound like my ones.

I used the small one with the EF 2X II on the 100mm and had the lens fall off, this must have been accidental released when handling the kit, probably when depressing the depth of field preview.

Mostly I use them with the 300 f4 for less approachable bugs like dragonflies. This was where they most dangerous as they are stacked together so 3 times the risk. Now I was being careful about handling them, I normally balance the 300mm on the TMA foot, thus my hand is well away from the tubes releases.

However in this case I was walking around for a good part of the day with the camera slung over the shoulder. Just the movement of walking around was enough to release the lens. I was luck it did not fall into one of the water pools.

I decided it was a false economy. The problem is not only the weak leaver springs but the total lack of tight fit. The slightest release of the leavers and the lens becomes loose. It might be a while before it falls off.


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Oct 20, 2006 02:01 as a reply to  @ convergent's post |  #15

Philipsart, I am thinking of the tubes too. I was debating getting the Canon ones, or the Kenko set which is a great value. Do you see any particular reason to pay more for the two Canon tubes, vs. the Kenko set? These just let you focus closer, right?

I love backlighting and shoot that way a lot for sports. Can you show me some examples of this type of lighting with the MT-24EX?

Thanks.[/QUOTE]

Hi, Have not worked out how to upload photos here as yet, But I do have a site with some Macro shots I took with the MT 24EX when I first bought it about 6 months ago.

There are a couple of backlighting photos here.

http://www.members.wes​tnet.com.au/phillipsar​t (external link)




  
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