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Thread started 23 Oct 2006 (Monday) 20:26
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Custom Function 4 on 30D is SOOOOOO great!

 
PeterGriffin
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Oct 24, 2006 11:53 as a reply to  @ post 2162232 |  #16

I played with this and lost a lot of good pictures. I'm a slow learner.

My understand is that this is only really applicable to those that shoot in SERVO mode versus one shot mode? On the surface this makes sense to me since having to separately focus in a studio or portrait format is frustrating.




  
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scottbergerphoto
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Oct 24, 2006 12:09 as a reply to  @ PeterGriffin's post |  #17

On my 1DMII camera, I combine CFn.s 4-1 and 18-2. This allows me 3 ways to shoot:
1. No button pressed - Manual Focus
2. * button pressed - 45 point AF
3 X button pressed - Registered AF point used to focus (I register the Center AF Point)


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Oct 24, 2006 12:21 |  #18

PeterGriffin wrote in post #2162794 (external link)
I played with this and lost a lot of good pictures. I'm a slow learner.

My understand is that this is only really applicable to those that shoot in SERVO mode versus one shot mode? On the surface this makes sense to me since having to separately focus in a studio or portrait format is frustrating.

It does take some time to get used to it but it makes a lot of sense. I am not saying it's for everyone but to me it works well and give me more flexibility. It works in all modes, not just Servo mode.


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picturecrazy
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Oct 24, 2006 12:37 |  #19

Here is my question in regards to this...

I shoot in lousy light all the time. I'm typically in the 1/10 - 1/50 shutter range so I am armed with IS lenses. I often anticipate moments and sit there and wait for it to happen... the whole time I have the shutter half-pressed waiting, sometimes up to two minutes. But I can't help but think it overworks the IS motors half-pressing the shutter for so long! (Not to mention, drains batteries)

If I do CF4 then I can lock focus and wait without holding the shutter button, which sounds GREAT!! But.... if you suddenly release the shutter without the half press first... is that enough time for the IS system to kick and and stabilize the image? Or will it happen too fast and effectively be like shooting without IS??? Anybody know this???


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scottbergerphoto
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Oct 24, 2006 13:19 |  #20

picturecrazy wrote in post #2162966 (external link)
Here is my question in regards to this...

I shoot in lousy light all the time. I'm typically in the 1/10 - 1/50 shutter range so I am armed with IS lenses. I often anticipate moments and sit there and wait for it to happen... the whole time I have the shutter half-pressed waiting, sometimes up to two minutes. But I can't help but think it overworks the IS motors half-pressing the shutter for so long! (Not to mention, drains batteries)

If I do CF4 then I can lock focus and wait without holding the shutter button, which sounds GREAT!! But.... if you suddenly release the shutter without the half press first... is that enough time for the IS system to kick and and stabilize the image? Or will it happen too fast and effectively be like shooting without IS??? Anybody know this???

I prefocus all the time with * and release. I don't know how long it takes for IS to engage:(


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jrsforums
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Oct 24, 2006 15:20 as a reply to  @ scottbergerphoto's post |  #21

It does take time for the IS gyros to spin up. It is not a lot, but longer that mashing the shutter. I have hear (but can't find the reference) that it is ~0.5 sec.

I have had a 20D and 5D and have never been concerned with battery life. Get a few extras at SterlingTek, and pop them in as needed....


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picturecrazy
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Oct 25, 2006 13:14 |  #22

Hmmm, looks like I'll stick with my original method. I need stabilized pics.
jrs: it's not the batteries that concern me... it's overworking and wearing out the IS motors that concerns me.


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Roy ­ Hernandez
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Oct 25, 2006 13:34 |  #23

does this also work in manual mode?


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Oct 25, 2006 13:56 |  #24

NIKONUSER wrote in post #2167931 (external link)
does this also work in manual mode?

Of course, only you don't have to worry about a half press of the shutter to lock exposure first.
Its how I do most of my shooting.



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whiskaz
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Oct 25, 2006 14:41 |  #25

I used CF4-1... took some getting used to but once I did and tried going back ... it was extremely difficult to do.


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Oct 25, 2006 14:44 as a reply to  @ Moppie's post |  #26

I just got back from an entire morning of shooting and although I still forget to focus with the * button it is becoming second nature. I see the usefulness in using this feature and do still like the default half shutter method of focusing. I like both and over time I am sure I will sort out which I use of if I use both.
I think a lot has to do with the type of shooting you do and whether you are more of a point & shoot photographer (even with a DSLR) or if you understand and use metering and exposure to its fullest. Nothing says you have to make it more complicated than it needs to be and for those that feel that focus and metering makes sense and works for them using only the shutter button then I say keep doing what you are doing.

As has been pointed out to me in so many instances, it's all what is comfortable for you and what will give you the best results. I am a firm believer in making the creative process the focus (no pun intended) and not the technical.


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jrsforums
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Oct 25, 2006 15:20 |  #27

picturecrazy wrote in post #2167843 (external link)
Hmmm, looks like I'll stick with my original method. I need stabilized pics.
jrs: it's not the batteries that concern me... it's overworking and wearing out the IS motors that concerns me.

Sorry, missed your statement on the IS motors. Not sure on the MTBF, but I would think the tiny gyro motors would have a fairly long rated life.

You did mention lousy light. I would think that would lead you to use CF4=1 due to the ability to get focus (either AF or MF) and ensure it hold as you release and repress the shutter button.

Either way you will have the same time with timing the release of the shutter and initiation of IS. Not sure what you are shooting, but I suspect that you can anticipate when you may need to be ready and 1/2 press...then, of course, release if that wasn't THE moment.

If you are in CF4=0, each time you press it will attempt to AF, unless you have turned lens to MF. In "lousy light" this may cause loss of focus.

Anyway, my 2 cents....JOHN


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nokiauk
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Oct 25, 2006 17:22 |  #28

TMR Design wrote in post #2160181 (external link)
I finally decided to dig into Custom Functions on my 30D and once I understood what Custom Function 4 was I changed it to 3 and now this camera rocks even more than it already did.
It only took me about an hour of playing with it to get used to it and it makes so much sense. To seperate focus from metering is one of the best things and I mean it. It opens up so many doors and give much more flexibility.
If you haven't tried it or made the change you should give it a shot.

can this be done on a 350d (digital rebel XT) also?




  
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RRitch
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Oct 25, 2006 17:45 |  #29

nokiauk wrote in post #2168904 (external link)
can this be done on a 350d (digital rebel XT) also?

Yes it can. I just tried it on mine. To me it seems like in this mode, the focus and exposure both seem more accurate. Is that true, or is it just my imagination. I can tell that it will take some getting used to, but it does seem to be useful.


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TBAATAR
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Oct 25, 2006 18:52 |  #30

just tried this setting and loving it. thanks for the tip. any more tips :)


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Custom Function 4 on 30D is SOOOOOO great!
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