Manual mode and metering

I'd really like to use M mode more, but don't have a sufficient feel for the correct aperture and speed settings. Is there some way to find out what the camera would suggest other than switching to another mode, pressing the button half way, then switching back to M? I have an A620. How do most people use M? Is it a matter of knowing? Back when I had a film SLR I would always rely on the suggestions it made and go from there. What am I missing? Is there something?

Thanks for any suggestions.

I don't know the A620 but on the S3, when in Manual mode, there's a little number which shows up in the upper left-hand corner of the LCD or the EVF which indicates the Exposure Compensation Value. As you get close to being a proper exposure, the number will show up anythwere from -2 to +2, in 1/3 stops. So you can just keep adjusting until that gets to 0 and disappears.

But beware that the camera may not always have the best exposure for what you want to see in the picture. Especially with sunrises and sunsets, with beautifully and delicately colored clouds overhead, the cameras (both my S3 and my 20D) tell me that I don't have the exposure set properly when I take the picture that is what I want to see. If I keep setting things until the cameras agree, the pictures are all washed out with colors nowhere near as rich as my eye sees.

With the cost of digital pictures so cheap (can anything be cheaper than free?) if you're not sure, take several pictures of the same shot, with one where the camera agrees that you've got proper exposure, and then several others with the camera set more to give you the shot you really want.

I've taken some beautiful shots which not even my eye could see, simply by upping the shutter speed or closing down the aperture a stop or two. Much deeper richer colors!

Of course in other situations, you might want to go the other way, where there's one single subject you want to have exposed properly, surrounded by brightly lit sand or snow, where the camera would meter for the brilliance, making the subject way too dark.

So treat the camera's suggestions with a grain of salt and be sure to expose for the shot you want to get.

dhbailey wrote in post #2161698
I don't know the A620 but on the S3, when in Manual mode, there's a little number which shows up in the upper left-hand corner of the LCD or the EVF which indicates the Exposure Compensation Value. As you get close to being a proper exposure, the number will show up anythwere from -2 to +2, in 1/3 stops. So you can just keep adjusting until that gets to 0 and disappears.

Same thing with the A620, though it's in the bottom right corner of the LCD. A red "-2" or "+2" means you are more than 2 stops above or below the recommendation. Otherwise, a white number from -2 to +2 give the amount above or below its recommendation.

CathyR wrote in post #2167950
Same thing with the A620, though it's in the bottom right corner of the LCD. A red "-2" or "+2" means you are more than 2 stops above or below the recommendation. Otherwise, a white number from -2 to +2 give the amount above or below its recommendation.

Ah, thanks! I had overlooked that, though it was right in front of me - really never tried M much since I didn't know how to conveniently get a baseline.

As for dhbailey's comments regarding color, what is that about? I was not aware you'd get more intense color like that. (yes, very very new to all this!) So, smaller aperture=more color? Or how does it work? What is the relationship between color, f-stop and speed?

The camera's meter will aid you in getting back to the point where no Exposure compensation is needed but keep in mind this is just the camera's suggestion. You might find as I do with my A620 that depending on the shot it is necessary or desirable to have + or - EC. Sometimes you can't know this unless you shoot and experiment with bracketing to see what works. A great exmaple of this is a scene with a bright sky against a background or landscape that is considerably darker. If the camera is metering off the sky it will underexpose the lower part of the scene. If the camera is metering off the darker portion of the scene then the sky will be blown out. This scenario is common and sometimes you have to adjust EC and find the exposure that is a compromise. You can also play with the metering modes. You can get different results based on how much of the image the camera is using to meter for exposure.

I have never used the exposure compensation to tell me what I should use in manual - I've always just said to myself - alright, it's not a well lit room, I'll need f/2.8 for sure - aaand I think about 1/60 should be alright, just as long as nothing's moving and I keep steady.

Or, I'll say - whoa it's bright out today, f/8 for sure, and 1/1500 should be good.

Orrr, Hmm I bet that would look schnazzy as a long exposure, and I set it to f/8 and 15 seconds.

It's all just what I think will seem good - it takes practise but you get used to it pretty quickly.

*edit* and I have also never used the auto mode on my camera except for things that I really didn't care about - but for real photography I've never used it. In fact I barely ever use Tv or Av mode either.

fitzhugh wrote in post #2169610
Ah, thanks! I had overlooked that, though it was right in front of me - really never tried M much since I didn't know how to conveniently get a baseline.

As for dhbailey's comments regarding color, what is that about? I was not aware you'd get more intense color like that. (yes, very very new to all this!) So, smaller aperture=more color? Or how does it work? What is the relationship between color, f-stop and speed?

Aperture and Shutter speed DO affect the color of a scene, but only insofar as the exposure is concered. That is, the colors of an underexposed scene will appear darker than those of an overexposed scene. Assuming equivalent exposures, a picture shot at f/2.8 will not have different colors than one shot at f/22, and one shot at 1/15th will not have different colors than one shot at 1/8000th.

Hope that answered your question!