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FORUMS Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon Lenses 
Thread started 28 Oct 2006 (Saturday) 21:08
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Annoying Newbie

 
aml254
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Oct 28, 2006 21:08 |  #1

??? When I decided to jump into the world of DSLR after debating it for two years, I began doing my research. I came across this site about a week while looking for reviews on the Canon Rebel. With everything I read, my decision to get it was an easy one. Little did I know that was the easy part. I decided based on reviews not to get the standard kit lens. And the drama begins....

A quick history of me. I love photography, but I truly suck at it. I have taken at least two classes in the past and I am about to begin another that focuses specifically on the DSLR. I am hoping against hope I will obtain some usable skills in this class. Any way... the use of the camera will be recreational. Mostly photos of my kids at their soccer games and close up photos of them just being babies. I travel a little so I would like a decent camera for family vacations. I am getting this camera before attending a family reunion so portrait type photos would be nice. I also don't want too bulky of a lens. I know this is asking a lot, but I am not looking for the best in every area, just something real good.

I have looked at all of the reviews for lenses and I am considering the Sigma 28-70mm or 28-205mm. I love crisp photos, natural and indoor light (preferably w/a stabilizer) and close-ups of my children. I am open to any and all suggestions. I would like to keep it under $400 since I plan to get better and purchase more in the future.

A side note I am coming from a point and shoot digital. I like to shoot inside the house with the light shining in and I hate when the image is streatked from the kids' movement. Will the DSLR fix most of this or will only a special lens fix this. Thanks again. angie




  
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Ronald ­ S. ­ Jr.
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Oct 28, 2006 21:11 |  #2

You need either a fast lens, or a flash and faster shutter speed to cure the "streaking" which we call motion blur. The Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 XR Di would be my best suggestion to you. Runs about $350, is nice and fast, and very sharp for the money. Another smart buy would be the book "Understanding Exposure". It'll change your world through the viewfinder.

Oh, and welcome to the forum! :-D


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Luckie8
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Oct 28, 2006 21:15 |  #3

To freeze an object movement, you need a fast lens. Especially indoors or low light condition. IS is not going to cure motion blur for you.
Whicever lens you get, try getting at least f/2.8 but if I was you I would get prime lens. They are excellent for potraits.


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TMR ­ Design
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Oct 28, 2006 21:20 as a reply to  @ Luckie8's post |  #4

A lot of people here seem to be using the Sigma 30mm 1.4. From what I hear its outstanding, real fast, and beautiful color.
They go for around $400.


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Ronald ­ S. ­ Jr.
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Oct 28, 2006 21:22 |  #5

I figured coming from a point and shoot, he would more easily adapt to a zoom lens, just to get used to a dslr and its control, and then later get creative with primes.


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aml254
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Oct 28, 2006 21:23 |  #6

WOW!! You guys are fast. Thanks for the quick response. Is there anyway to buy a good prime lens at a reasonable price - sounds like an oxymoron I know. Angie




  
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Ronald ­ S. ­ Jr.
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Oct 28, 2006 21:24 |  #7

What do you consider a "good price"? Remember the rule...you get what you pay for. The 30 1.4 is a nice suggestion. If you're going to do sports, portraits, and closeups, the 30 won't do much good as your only lens. I would highly highly suggest the 85mm f/1.8 by Canon. Super duper for all of that. Goes for about $350.


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aml254
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Oct 28, 2006 21:38 |  #8

I may look at the prime lens when I gain better portrait skills. For now, I don't want to have to move in on the subject and step back. I looked up the Tamron a few days ago and it looks like a good lens. I had been thinking along the lines of that mm range, but I have noticed comments about certain lenses not working as well with DSLR. I can't remember if it was the Tamron that they said was grainy. Is this only noticeable to the truly skilled photographer? I am one of those that can appreciate a good photo, but not take one. A little grainy feature on a photo blown up 10x won't really matter to me.




  
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85lesabre
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Oct 28, 2006 21:39 |  #9

....and yes in the world of cameras $350 is an extremely reasonable price.




  
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runninmann
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Oct 28, 2006 22:18 |  #10

aml254 wrote in post #2183790 (external link)
.... I looked up the Tamron a few days ago and it looks like a good lens. I had been thinking along the lines of that mm range, but I have noticed comments about certain lenses not working as well with DSLR. I can't remember if it was the Tamron that they said was grainy. Is this only noticeable to the truly skilled photographer? ...

You'll see many wonderful photos taken with the Tammy here http://www.photography​-on-the.net/forum/showthre​ad.php?t=145586. It's a great, reasonably priced lens


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DaveSt
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Oct 28, 2006 22:28 as a reply to  @ runninmann's post |  #11

From my limited experience, if you want to get good indoor shots of your kids without motion blur, one of the first "upgrades" you should be making is a decent flash unit. With a decent flash, even slow lenses can give you very good indoor shots. With a fast aperture, you are going to have a fairly shallow depth of focus. If all you want is to get a picture of your kids' faces, then that's ok. If you want to get the entire scene in focus, you probably won't be shooting at F2.8 or or higher anyhow. At this point, a flash (or really good indoor lighting) is darned near a must in my opinion.


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SuzyView
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Oct 28, 2006 22:30 |  #12

Many pros here use the Tammy. I think spending a lot of money all at once is a mistake anyway. Get to know your camera and how you shoot, then decide what lenses you really need and when to buy them. Have a plan and observe the way you shoot.

I also second Ronald's suggestion about buying "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson. I recommend to everyone here who wants to learn about photography in general. Mr. Peterson does an excellent job of explaining the most important parts of exposure. Also, $350 for a lens is very reasonable, just go to the thread about how much people spend on their gear. :)


Suzie - Still Speaking Canonese!
RF6 Mii, 5DIV, SONY a7iii, 7D2, G12, 6 L's & 2 Primes, 25 bags.
My children and grandchildren are the reason, but it's the passion that drives me to get the perfect image of everything.

  
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aml254
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Oct 28, 2006 22:41 |  #13

Last question. With regard to f/2.8 vs. the standard Canon EF-S 18-55 f/3.5-5.6... What does that mean. I know the lower the f-stop the more the foreground and background will be in focus, but would I do better to get a camera with different f-stops for when I take portraits? Or does this mean that the lower number is the highest capability of that lens and that all the higher numbers are also available? I know this will seem like a stupid question, but I am not a very good student. Angie




  
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aml254
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Oct 28, 2006 22:45 |  #14

I think you guys are right. I may stick with the standard kit until I read this book and finish this class. Thanks for all of your insight, you guys take some great photos. Angie




  
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aml254
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Oct 28, 2006 22:51 |  #15

I am posting a picture taken with my point and shoot. It shows what I hate about the current point and shoot. The flash on the camera makes the foreground so bright and the entire rom pales. Even if it isn't natural light, will the Rebel's standard flash be better?

IMAGE NOT FOUND
HTTP response: 404 | MIME changed to 'image/gif' | Byte size: ZERO | PHOTOBUCKET ERROR IMAGE



  
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