Canon 420EX and the Rebel

Okay this might be a dumb question, but hey I need an answer. I have a 420 EX flash and am considering getting a D rebel. How is the 420 going to limit me. I have been using FEL mostly for studio shots. I never have the need for a real quick shot. Can I use FEL with the D300 to make up for lack of exposure compensation? At this time it would be impossible for me to get the 550 EX.

Thanks Ruby

One way to answer your question is to ask yourself if you currently use FEC with your existing camera? If not, then you may be able to live without it. OTOH, I suspect you may find yourself in situations where you can't use FEL (e.g. there's no mid-toned subject). Those are the situations where FEL is most handy.

There are ways to accomplish FEC, including FEL on something lighter/darker than midtone; and moving in/out, doing FEL, moving back to original spot. Look at the other threads that discuss the 300D and FEC.

As a last and least preferred resort, you can always shoot RAW and fix up lighting issues in Photoshop.

thanks

Your right I plan on shooting RAW anyway. I get away with a lot in photoshop. I think I could live with 420 for awhile and the moving in closer and further back sounds like an option. I have a gray card. Would it be better to focus on that and then move in and out?

ruby

Make yourself a little exposure and focus target.

Get a piece of white foamboard, maybe 5x8 inches, but the size is not too important. Divide it into thirds for area, and cover one third with the blackest black tape that you can find. One third you cover with gray tape that is about 18% gray. Then the last third, you leave as pure white.

Now you can use it for two things. First, exposure. If you shoot a photo, ideally you should get three spikes on the histogram. The black piece should yield a spike at the far left side of the histogram. The gray piece should yield a spike in the center. Then the white piece should yield a spike on the far right side. If your exposure is all wrong, you will see a weirdly offset histogram.

Then focus. The camera should be able to autofocus on the contrasting lines of the thirds of the target. A gray card might give it some trouble, but black-gray-white ought to work good.

Get your model to hold the target near the eyes, if that is the primary interest.

---Bob Gross---

Make yourself a little exposure and focus target.

Get a piece of white foamboard, maybe 5x8 inches, but the size is not too important. Divide it into thirds for area, and cover one third with the blackest black tape that you can find. One third you cover with gray tape that is about 18% gray. Then the last third, you leave as pure white.

Now you can use it for two things. First, exposure. If you shoot a photo, ideally you should get three spikes on the histogram. The black piece should yield a spike at the far left side of the histogram. The gray piece should yield a spike in the center. Then the white piece should yield a spike on the far right side. If your exposure is all wrong, you will see a weirdly offset histogram.

Then focus. The camera should be able to autofocus on the contrasting lines of the thirds of the target. A gray card might give it some trouble, but black-gray-white ought to work good.

Get your model to hold the target near the eyes, if that is the primary interest.

---Bob Gross---