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FORUMS Cameras, Lenses & Accessories Canon Lenses 
Thread started 11 Nov 2006 (Saturday) 08:05
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Got my new 400 L-disappointed that

 
Permagrin
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Nov 11, 2006 14:23 as a reply to  @ post 2248599 |  #16

pttenn wrote in post #2247510 (external link)
Well, guess I have to buy a cheap 1.2..how ironic. So will that ruin the quality of the pictures? (assuming I can take a decent picture...lol)
Karen

I believe it was CDS who said, in one of his posts, that it wasn't great for the AF motor to try to get it to focus when it wasn't designed to...can't remember for sure who said it, but it made an impact on me...wouldn't want to hurt my camera or lens....


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Tom ­ W
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Nov 11, 2006 15:26 |  #17

Permagrin wrote in post #2248618 (external link)
I believe it was CDS who said, in one of his posts, that it wasn't great for the AF motor to try to get it to focus when it wasn't designed to...can't remember for sure who said it, but it made an impact on me...wouldn't want to hurt my camera or lens....


I tried the pin-taping trick on my 100-400L with a teleconverter, and it hunted excessively. Sometimes, the AF would oscillate back and forth very quickly, so I quit doing it. That was on a 10D, which had a less-capable AF system than the 20D/30D. The 400/5.6 may fare better, and I'd say that it's worth a try.

I think that John DeFord was the one that had trouble with a 100-400 and taped contacts, a couple of years back. You may PM him and ask.


Tom
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ScottE
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Nov 11, 2006 15:57 |  #18

Having started taking photos before AF was available, I don't understand why people can't use manual focus any more. It is still better in some tricky situations.




  
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pttenn
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Nov 11, 2006 16:25 |  #19

ScottE wrote in post #2248869 (external link)
Having started taking photos before AF was available, I don't understand why people can't use manual focus any more. It is still better in some tricky situations.

I agree, and will go ahead and use manual focus with the 1.4 Kenko for static situations...but for birds in flight you really need that auto. (or us newbies do..lol) I really need the reach of the 400+ the 1.4 to get close enough to shy birds. Guess I'm not sneaky enough...I may try the tape trick but sure don't want to damage this expensive (to me, anyway) lens.
Karen


Canon 50D, 40D, Tokina 12-24,Canon 18-55,Canon 28-135 IS, Canon 50 1.8,Canon 75-300 5.6,
Canon 200 2.8 L, Canon 400 f/5.6 L, Bogen monopod and Sunpak Tripod with manfrotto Pistol ball grip.

  
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NordieBoy
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Nov 11, 2006 16:37 |  #20

Roy C wrote in post #2248323 (external link)
Not so - the cheap Kenko has not got the contacts to tell the camera that it is there so the Camera still thinks it is f5.6 and will af.

Will "try" to AF.
Whether there's enough light for that to be successful is another matter :)


Fran
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NordieBoy
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Nov 11, 2006 16:39 |  #21

ScottE wrote in post #2248869 (external link)
Having started taking photos before AF was available, I don't understand why people can't use manual focus any more. It is still better in some tricky situations.

Because some of us have cameras where the viewfinder is not suited to manual focus?
Or the expense of getting a split prism focus screen installed.


Fran
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Tom ­ W
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Nov 11, 2006 16:46 |  #22

ScottE wrote in post #2248869 (external link)
Having started taking photos before AF was available, I don't understand why people can't use manual focus any more. It is still better in some tricky situations.

I shot with manual cameras as well, so I can point out a few things that make it more difficult in today's cameras:

  • Smaller viewfinder, at least in the 1.6X cameras.

  • No focus aid in the viewfinder. I had a microprism in my FT-QL and there's a split image prism in my old Argus.

  • Older lenses had a longer vernier to the manual focus ring. You could hit that pinpoint sharpness more easily.

  • We look at our images at 100% now, a level which wasn't normally reached with film (except for when using the loupe or viewing slides).

  • We didn't lose 40% of our viewfinder brightness due to the partial mirror (which ironically passes about 35-40% of the light through to a secondary mirror and on to the AF sensors).


All that said, I still occasionally manually focus the 5D and the 30D, but it's a more time-consuming task, and the precision is more difficult. OK for stationary objects, but not so good for fast-moving sports where AF works very well.

Tom
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MeanGreeny
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Nov 11, 2006 16:50 as a reply to  @ NordieBoy's post |  #23

Taping the 3 pins causes no damage whatsoever.

Canon only do it to maintain the good name & reputation of their AF systems i.e. so that it works well or not at all.

Use the centre sensor only to improve AF performance when using the 'tape trick'


"Serious Bag": 5D / 14 f2.8 / 17-40 f4.0L / 50 f1.4 / 85 f1.8 / 70-200 f4L IS. "Grab Bag": 30D / 10-22 / 17-55 IS / 30 f1.4 / 70-300 DO IS. "Carryall": Pana GF-1 with 14mm f/2.5 & 20mm f1.7 / GRD2 28mm f2.4 Special Occasions: 400 5.6L, 60 & 150 Macro.
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basroil
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Nov 11, 2006 16:50 |  #24

akhater wrote in post #2248599 (external link)
yes tape them or, better nail polish them :)

tape is better, when you want to get rid of it, nailpolish is harder to take off and put back on... and don't even think of using nailpolish remover...:rolleyes:


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Lightstream
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Nov 11, 2006 19:15 |  #25

Kenko 1.5 SHQ Teleplus here, no pins (in the first place), no tape, whoohoo :)

Intend to stick this one on my 100-400 for backup 600 f/8 IS if I need it.




  
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NordieBoy
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Nov 11, 2006 19:29 |  #26

Lightstream wrote in post #2249519 (external link)
Kenko 1.5 SHQ Teleplus here, no pins (in the first place), no tape, whoohoo :)

Intend to stick this one on my 100-400 for backup 600 f/8 IS if I need it.

No autofocus?


Fran
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Got my new 400 L-disappointed that
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