Lightstream wrote in post #2282653
The 'match needle' gauge in M mode is also dependent on the on-camera metering and their algorithms. So, if you set your meter to evaluative, and shoot the scene in auto, you'll get the camera's take on it. If you then switch to manual, and line up the little scale at the bottom of your viewfinder to exactly 0, you'll get the same equivalent exposure (EV) that the camera would have chosen.
When I use manual I still need to be mindful of which metering mode I use, or ignore the little scale completely and use my own judgement. (sometimes that indeed is easier! Shot on Friday in extreme lighting conditions.. meter was totally thrown)
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I've spent time in all of the modes, primarily Av, and wouldn't write any of them off outright. Instead I try to figure out what the camera is thinking and how it will react in a given situation - in order to figure out when I should step in and override the camera. I'm comfortable using P/Tv/Av only because I know its behavior and when to change modes or go to manual.
I fully agree, I tend to favour Tv to Av (and don't use P) but I am perfectly happy using them for most situations. I will dial in a little compensation when I feel it is appropriate or, when the lighting is particularly awkward, I will tend to meter from an appropriate part of the scene, or dig out the old Weston handheld and do an incident reading, then set the camera manually or use EV compensation if the light levels are varying slightly.
I am never convinced by the argument to use manual 'because the camera meter can't be trusted', as I find that (for reflected readings) it can be just as effective as a hand held so long as you use it properly. Of course, there are situations where it can be fooled but they are usually pretty obvious when viewing the scene and we can correct accordingly. With digital we do at least have the luxury of checking a histogram to help evaluate the scene, then bracketing without the expense of wasted film, if required. I am pretty good at estimating corrections on the spot anyway, because I spent all my formative years shooting trannies for colour, so exposure had to be accurate. For me film was for B&W or snapshots.
Many people who use manual also do it by using the match scale, so are effectively using the cameras meter reading anyway and just going the long way round. This isn't having a go at Liza by the way, I presume that she uses a handheld meter, judging by her comment.
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