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Thread started 26 Nov 2006 (Sunday) 13:51
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Second Sportrait

 
bildeb0rg
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Nov 26, 2006 13:51 |  #1

Hi, second week with the 4ood and 70-200 f4. Straight from the camera , with a slight crop to 3:4, and resized to 640 by 480. Chasing daylight again, so that stabillised f2.8 is starting to look very attractive.




  
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bildeb0rg
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Nov 26, 2006 14:00 |  #2

yeah your right, these should be in the original post...doh!


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Robert_Lay
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Nov 26, 2006 14:41 |  #3

Both shots are very good action shots.

The shadows and mid-tones are somewhat blocked up in both images.

Using Image->Adjustment->Levels in PSCS or PSCS2 it is possible to improve the tonal qualities by increasing the detail in the low and mid tones through a small adustment of the mid-tone slider and the white point slider.

The right hand picture composition is also improved by cropping out the player at the left.

If you want to see my rendition of such changes, just enable editing of your posts.


Bob
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Canon Rebel XTi; EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-f/5.6 USM; EF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-f/5.6; EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM; EF 50mm f/1.4 USM; Canon Powershot G5; Canon AE1(2); Leica R4s; Battery Grip BG-E3; Pentax Digital Spotmeter with Zone VI Mod & Calibration.

  
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bildeb0rg
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Nov 26, 2006 15:46 |  #4

Hi Bob, thanks for looking. Erm, PSCS? Yes, I am that green. And finally, how do I enable my posts to be edited? See, I think I can get the shots ok, I just don't know anything about computers or post processing...but I'm having a ball!




  
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Robert_Lay
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Nov 27, 2006 15:59 |  #5

bildeb0rg wrote in post #2316002 (external link)
Hi Bob, thanks for looking. Erm, PSCS? Yes, I am that green. And finally, how do I enable my posts to be edited? See, I think I can get the shots ok, I just don't know anything about computers or post processing...but I'm having a ball!

PSCS is PhotoShop Creative Suites, Version 8 and PSCS2 is PhotoShop Creative Suites 2, Version 9.

Here is the needed procedure for controlling "IMAGE EDITING OK":
UserCP->Settings &Options->Edit Profile->
Under "Additional Information", look for "Image Edit and repost permission".

I will take your message as a tacit permission to edit and re-post.


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Bob
Quality of Light (external link), Photo Tool ver 2.0 (external link)
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bildeb0rg
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Nov 27, 2006 17:59 |  #6

Thanks Bob. Second image has more detail in the blacks, but still kept the skin tones well balanced. And I would probably go even tighter on the first image. if i change the white balance in the camera settings, would that have had the same effect? I'm a bit scared of going too far with any pp, as all I seem to do is spoil a good pic.Thanks for your patience.




  
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Robert_Lay
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Nov 27, 2006 21:18 |  #7

bildeb0rg wrote in post #2321139 (external link)
Thanks Bob. Second image has more detail in the blacks, but still kept the skin tones well balanced. And I would probably go even tighter on the first image. if i change the white balance in the camera settings, would that have had the same effect? I'm a bit scared of going too far with any pp, as all I seem to do is spoil a good pic.Thanks for your patience.


I may have confused you with the reference to white point setting. It has only to do with the exposure and the resulting digital value of the highlights - it has nothing to do with the White Balance setting, which affects the color temperature calibration.


Bob
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bildeb0rg
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Nov 28, 2006 04:06 |  #8

Confused? You Betcha. So, Am I looking at plus about a third to a half stop exposure compensation on camera? Or do I just need to bite the bullet and do it in post? Can you recommend any reference books to steer me thru this minefield?




  
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Robert_Lay
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Nov 28, 2006 07:54 |  #9

The issue of what can be done in post processing is a question of whether you are shooting RAW format. If so, there is an almost magical ability to go back and re-develop the negative, so to speak.

Otherwise, you are stuck with whatever re-mapping of the pixels can be accomplished with Image->Adjustment->Levels or a re-shoot of the scene. In my modifications to your images, which were very minor changes, it made a noticeable difference with just simple post processing using Levels.

If you choose to shoot in RAW format, I suggest my tutorials on the topic.
Tutorial on RAW Processing as downloadable PDF:
http://www.zaffora.com​/W9DMK/RAWProcessing.p​df (external link)

Quick Tour of RAW Processing as downloadable PDF:
http://www.zaffora.com …ckTourOfRAWProc​essing.pdf (external link)
[The latter has the latest material]


Bob
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Canon Rebel XTi; EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-f/5.6 USM; EF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-f/5.6; EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM; EF 50mm f/1.4 USM; Canon Powershot G5; Canon AE1(2); Leica R4s; Battery Grip BG-E3; Pentax Digital Spotmeter with Zone VI Mod & Calibration.

  
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bildeb0rg
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Nov 28, 2006 16:59 |  #10

So I guess I now need to start shooting in RAW and jpeg right? I think I read in the manuel that this can be done simultaneously, without slowing the camera write speed too much. Reduces the maximum burst length seems to ring a bell... Is this where a faster i.e. ultra 2/extreme 3, CF card starts to earn its keep? And just to sound really dumb, whats a "PDF"? I will read your links as soon as work permits, (too many hours) but if I shoot this weekends matches in both formats, at least I can go back to the pics later. Thanks again Bob.




  
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Nov 28, 2006 17:03 |  #11

Oh, and for the 166 lurkers who have viewed and not left a comment, get off the fence people! Let me know what you think!




  
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Robert_Lay
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Nov 28, 2006 21:01 |  #12

bildeb0rg wrote in post #2325799 (external link)
So I guess I now need to start shooting in RAW and jpeg right? I think I read in the manuel that this can be done simultaneously, without slowing the camera write speed too much. Reduces the maximum burst length seems to ring a bell... Is this where a faster i.e. ultra 2/extreme 3, CF card starts to earn its keep? And just to sound really dumb, whats a "PDF"? I will read your links as soon as work permits, (too many hours) but if I shoot this weekends matches in both formats, at least I can go back to the pics later. Thanks again Bob.

I'm not sure about the effect of higher speed camera memories in regard to drive modes, but what you're saying sounds plausible.

Some things you need to know about RAW -
- Configuring for both RAW and JPG is an option, but not a necessity. [You can shoot only RAW and convert to any other format(s) during post processing.]
- The RAW image file is never modified by any software. The tuning that you perform in processing the RAW image is always stored separately. [So, you can always go back to the RAW image "negative" and develop it over again (figuratively)]


A PDF is Adobe's "portable document format" - a universal format for which the Acrobat PDF Reader is free and available for all platforms.


Bob
Quality of Light (external link), Photo Tool ver 2.0 (external link)
Canon Rebel XTi; EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-f/5.6 USM; EF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-f/5.6; EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM; EF 50mm f/1.4 USM; Canon Powershot G5; Canon AE1(2); Leica R4s; Battery Grip BG-E3; Pentax Digital Spotmeter with Zone VI Mod & Calibration.

  
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bildeb0rg
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Nov 29, 2006 05:09 |  #13

So if I modify a RAW file, does it automatically generate/prompt another file i.e. jpeg? And if I shoot in RAW do I need to download Acrobat PDF Reader, or can I use the Canon software, Photo Profassional, that came with the camera? I think it's safe to say your a fan of RAWs flexibility, but is this likely to be a step too far for me, given my negative transferal equity (I want my A1s back!)? Bearing in mind I am shooting for the clubs web site, I am under a little pressure to perform.....




  
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Robert_Lay
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Nov 29, 2006 16:07 |  #14

bildeb0rg wrote in post #2328232 (external link)
So if I modify a RAW file, does it automatically generate/prompt another file i.e. jpeg?

No - the option to save the file in another format is just that, an option.

And if I shoot in RAW do I need to download Acrobat PDF Reader, or can I use the Canon software, Photo Profassional, that came with the camera?

The Acrobat Reader has nothing to do with RAW files - it's just for reading PDF documents. The RAW files are manipulated using the Adobe plug-in "Adobe Camera RAW" or another program, such as that provided free from Pixmantec.
Unfortunately, I am not familiar with the Canon software that comes with that camera, except for the Zoom Browser, which does process RAW files but is very clunky and has very limited adjustments, as I remember.

I think it's safe to say your a fan of RAWs flexibility, but is this likely to be a step too far for me, given my negative transferal equity (I want my A1s back!)? Bearing in mind I am shooting for the clubs web site, I am under a little pressure to perform.....

I suggest that it would be worth your effort to get the Pixmantec free product and spend at least an honest 2 hours with it before you give up. Unfortunately, I am not familiar with their latest offerings, since they were bought out by Adobe. So, I don't know if they still have the free version.
Check at www.pixmantec.com (external link)


Bob
Quality of Light (external link), Photo Tool ver 2.0 (external link)
Canon Rebel XTi; EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-f/5.6 USM; EF-S 18-55 mm f/3.5-f/5.6; EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM; EF 50mm f/1.4 USM; Canon Powershot G5; Canon AE1(2); Leica R4s; Battery Grip BG-E3; Pentax Digital Spotmeter with Zone VI Mod & Calibration.

  
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bildeb0rg
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Nov 29, 2006 17:35 |  #15

Thanks for the link Bob, I'm downloading the latest free version of essentials now (1.2) They also have trial versions of premium and colour engine too. I'll take your advice and give it a whirl, tho it might take a little while longer than two hours...




  
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