No. But that's not a problem, as you can always switch lenses on a DSLR.
If you look at the aperture (the /4-5.6 etc.) part after the focal length, it will tell you whether the camera is good for low light, i.e. if it has a large aperture (low number).
The aperture basically tells you how 'large' the hole is that lets the light in ... if the 'light hole'
is twice as big, the shutter only has to stay open half as long. Aperture is measured in full stops, where one full stop equals twice the amount of light. Full stops are multiples of the square root of 2 (physically, a hole has 2 dimensions) and run: 1.0 ... 1.4 ... 2.0 ... 2.8 ... 4.0 ... 5.6 ... 8.0 ... 11.0 ... 16.0 (and so on)
So a 28/2.8 lens will let in twice as much light as a 28/4.0 lens and 4 times as much as a 28/5.6 lens.
Normally, fast prime lenses (i.e. non-zoom lenses) like the 75$ Canon 50/1.8 or the 350$ Canon 50/1.4 are good low light lenses.
Generally, zoom lenses are only good for low light, if they are quite expensive (the mentioned /2.8 zooms - mind you ... NOT /2.8-4.0 etc ). 'Hyperzooms' (that have a 10x zoom range) are never good for low light. For example, your Sigma 28-300 most likely is the Sigma 28-300/3.5-5.6 lens that has an aperture of 3.5 at its wide end and an aperture of 5.6 on its long end. While f/3.5 is not that much slower than f/2.8, it is only usable in low light with good results if it also yields sharp images at this aperture ... which cheaper lenses normally do not do.
So if you have to stop your lens down to f/5.6 (or even f/8 ) to get sharp images, it will be a lot slower than the Canon 50/1.8 or the 200$ Canon 35/2.0 (if you need a wider image) that give really sharp images when used at f/2.5 or f/2.8.