Hockey Sportraits

Why do I suck with servo? :/
My 300d's mirror locked up 2 weeks ago so i decided to take the next big step and buy a 30d. This was my first time using servo and I feel like alot of my pics are coming out soft. I mean is it part of the learning process or does servo usually result in less than tack sharp shots?

1.

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number 3s first name wouldnt George would it?

some great action shots, there.

are you using CF4-1 (or 4-3) and just the center focus point? do you set the focus limit switch, and turn off IS?


in servo, sometimes the camera decides to switch focus from the center point to one of the peripheral points. try overlaying your image with an image of the focus points, and see if stuff is in-focus at the wrong focus point (so the main subject is out).

also, hockey moves fast enough that sometimes your camera can't stay on focus with a moving skater, and sometimes another player skates in front of your subject for a moment and then the camera is thrown off.

I hadn't played around with the custom functions at all yet. I was actually using CF4-0, normally using the center focus point. I also did not touch the focus limit. My lens doesn't have IS so I dont think turning off IS had anything to do with it. Do you prefer CF4-1 o CF 4-3? Also what should I set the focus limit switch to? Thanks for your help David.

DavidEB wrote in post #2347124
some great action shots, there.

are you using CF4-1 (or 4-3) and just the center focus point? do you set the focus limit switch, and turn off IS?


in servo, sometimes the camera decides to switch focus from the center point to one of the peripheral points. try overlaying your image with an image of the focus points, and see if stuff is in-focus at the wrong focus point (so the main subject is out).

also, hockey moves fast enough that sometimes your camera can't stay on focus with a moving skater, and sometimes another player skates in front of your subject for a moment and then the camera is thrown off.

in ai-servo, the first shot is "shutter priority" meaning the image is taken as soon as you press the button, regardless of whether it's in focus. subsequent shots are "focus priority" and should be in focus.

cf 4-1or 4-3 give you better control. you track the action, press * to focus, and press the shutter release when you're ready -- the first shot in a series will then be in focus (because you controlled it). You can do the same with cf4-0, but it's harder to control, especially when you get excited following the game. Your trigger finger does two things - focus and shoot. It's hard to hold the shutter half-down, move the camera, change zoom, etc... With cf4-1 it's easy to hold * down with your thumb, operate other controls, and then your trigger finger does only one thing - shoot.

servo and * focus are made for each other, but it takes practice.

if you use M mode, cf4-1 and 4-3 are the same. they only matter in auto exposure modes like Av or Tv. I recommend M for hockey for 2 reasons -- less shutter lag, and less variability as your subject framing changes with different proportions of ice, black pants, etc...

focus limit switch -- pushed away from the camera allows a wider range of focus. You're not shooting ultra close-ups here -- push the limit switch closer to the camera, and it will focus faster.

5, 6, and 8 are really nice action shots.

thanks for sharing David. I think that CF-4 will help in soccer as well .