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Thread started 10 Dec 2006 (Sunday) 02:56
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Lens steadiness question!

 
SBCmetroguy
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Dec 10, 2006 02:56 |  #1

I own the standard 18-55mm Canon kit lens, but also the Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III telephoto lens. I love this lens because of the 300mm focal length, but I find that when using it without a tripod, my images are somewhat out of focus when view in full-size. At a smaller size, however, they look fine.

Is there anything I can do, without having the IS technology built into this lens, to steady myself with it better? I don't have the steadiest hand so anything I could do would be of a huge benefit. I do hold the lens with one hand and the side grip with the other, but I still get that "out of focus" look at full size. I've had what could have been my best microstock photos turned down for this issue alone.

Any suggestions would be greatly aprpeciated! :)




  
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mcminty
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Dec 10, 2006 03:05 |  #2

First, with that lens the sharpness drops drastically as you get to the 300mm end.


Second, you must ensure your shutter speed is no less than the reciprical of the focal length. What that means is if your focal length is 200mm, the general rule is that you should be no slower than 1/200th of a second.

When using lenses on the XT, you must consider the 1.6 crop factor. At 300mm on the lens is actually 480mm. Shooting at that length, your shutter should be no slower than 1/500th of a second.


Hope that helpes,
Andrew.


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SBCmetroguy
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Dec 10, 2006 03:11 |  #3

mcminty wrote in post #2379385 (external link)
First, with that lens the sharpness drops drastically as you get to the 300mm end.


Second, you must ensure your shutter speed is no less than the reciprical of the focal length. What that means is if your focal length is 200mm, the general rule is that you should be no slower than 1/200th of a second.

When using lenses on the XT, you must consider the 1.6 crop factor. At 300mm on the lens is actually 480mm. Shooting at that length, your shutter should be no slower than 1/500th of a second.


Hope that helpes,
Andrew.

Wow, that helps a lot, Andrew! Thanks. :)




  
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Henrik ­ Ploug
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Dec 10, 2006 03:13 as a reply to  @ mcminty's post |  #4

You could get a monopod: http://www.outdooreyes​.com/photo5.php3 (external link)




  
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SBCmetroguy
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Dec 10, 2006 03:22 |  #5

Henrik Ploug wrote in post #2379404 (external link)
You could get a monopod: http://www.outdooreyes​.com/photo5.php3 (external link)

I've thought about a monopod. I just don't see how they could be very steady... are they? I guess a tripod seems so steady because of it's frame, but a monopod seems just like a weak-looking pole to me. Having no experience with one, however, I'm just talking about how it appears to me.




  
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Henrik ­ Ploug
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Dec 10, 2006 03:27 |  #6

I haven't tried a monopod either. But from what I have heard - with the right techniq - it should give you three to four steps - just like IS does.




  
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SBCmetroguy
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Dec 10, 2006 03:29 |  #7

Oh wow, thanks for that info!! I could have bought a monopod the other night, but I'd been needing a mini-tripod for certain areas where a regular tripod wasn't feasible. Maybe soon I'll pick up a monopod. I LOVE buying equipment... and this coming from a dude who TOTALLY hates shopping! :) I just bought my first diffuser tonight on eBay. Every piece of equipment I add puts another smile on my face.

Again, thanks for that info, it might be worth it afterall!!




  
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::John::
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Dec 10, 2006 03:33 |  #8

Think "Monopod" + your 2 legs = impromptu tripod

With the right technique you can get some great stability with a monopod.

However, the first suggestion regarding shutter speed vs focal length is an excellent one to consider, too.


I am the proud owner of the Peleng 8mm Fisheye lens

  
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johnstoy
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Dec 10, 2006 03:37 |  #9

Using the Canon EOS 30D...and the 75-300mm 4-5.6 lens:

I chose to test the best possible resolution of this lens at 300mm...Why? because I was in the process of buying an L Lens for birding and wanted to compare the High Resolution of these lenses...

These shots were taken hand held...That's why I chose the faster ISO, and a shutter speed that wouldn't reflect too much, on my inability to keep the camera steady...In order to keep as much of the subject in focus as possible, (I aimed for the "eye", to be in the best focus possible,)...I strove for a substantial "Depth of Field" by choosing higher F stops of F13 and F 14...This way there wouldn't be much question regarding sharpness of the eye...

You need to use a shutter speed that's at least 1/300th of a second at 300mm...or 1/100th of a second at 100mm ...the proportion is the same for all focal lengths of a lens, without the (IS) Image Stabilization feature...

I would recommend using a mono pod or tri pod for all long lenses that don't feature (IS) Image Stabilization, whenever possible...

Here are two shots withe the 75-300mm f/4-5.6 lens at:

1st Photo: 1/1250th, F13, ISO 1600, at 300mm...Auto Exposure

IMAGE: http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l60/stoy17/TurkeySquirel/IMG_20061015_20541.jpg

2nd Photo: 1/1600th, F14, ISO 1600, at 300mm...Auto Exposure

IMAGE: http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l60/stoy17/TurkeySquirel/IMG_20061015_20561.jpg

I like these results...although, even at 1/1250th, the eye of the subject was a bit fuzzy in picture number one...This could be the result of camera shake...I usually have that problem much the time...

John Stoy

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SBCmetroguy
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Dec 10, 2006 03:38 |  #10

The '500' setting on my shutter speed is 1/500, correct? I have the hardest time using manual settings in daylight, but not much problem with them at night.

Sorry, I've still got a LOT to learn. :)




  
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johnstoy
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Dec 10, 2006 04:39 |  #11

SBCmetroguy wrote in post #2379446 (external link)
The '500' setting on my shutter speed is 1/500, correct? I have the hardest time using manual settings in daylight, but not much problem with them at night.

Sorry, I've still got a LOT to learn. :)


Yes the number 500 in your view finder or on your screen is the shutter speed...Be carefull not to confuse the ISO settings numbers with the shutter speed number, cause they (ISO) aren't in fractions...

It probably would be best to check your instruction manual for the actual shutter speed list, for your camera...because shutter speeds are fractions, but are shown as the lower number of the fraction 1/500th is shown as 500...ISO 500 is shown as 500 too...so be careful what mode you are in when setting the features.

Use the instruction book for clarification...

1/500th shutter speed would be a reasonalby safe speed to use the 75-300mm lens at...


John Stoy

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SkipD
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Dec 10, 2006 05:40 |  #12

mcminty wrote in post #2379385 (external link)
When using lenses on the XT, you must consider the 1.6 crop factor. At 300mm on the lens is actually 480mm. Shooting at that length, your shutter should be no slower than 1/500th of a second.

Andrew, the statement that I highlighted in the quote above is actually quite untrue. A 300mm lens is always a 300mm lens regardless of what camera body it is connected to.

Nothing about the actual charactistics of any particular lens changes when you use on cameras with different formats (film/sensor size). The different film/sensor sizes only change the amount of the image projected by the lens that will be captured.

What you could have said is something like this: A 300mm lens on the XT has the same field of view as a 480mm lens on a 35mm film camera. This is the way to convey the idea to new photographers who don't understand cameras, lenses, and particularly things like "crop factor" values without giving them totally mistaken impressions of the truth. You can also point them to posts on the forum like this one: Crop Factor Explained

Regarding the 1/focal length rule-of-thumb, since the rule-of-thumb was created with the 35mm film camera in mind, one does need to multiply the focal length by the "crop factor" when doing the calculation.


Skip Douglas
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..... but still learning all the time.

  
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Cap0ne
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Dec 10, 2006 06:33 |  #13

The "poor" man IS :) (when not using tripod) :

-fast shutter speed
-high ISO
-stick to a tree or wall for suport
-hold your breath
-use a grip for increased weight and suport
-shoot a burst of 3 or 4 pics and then keep the one with the bigger file size cause it's the sharpest. This way you'll get rid of the vibrations caused by yourself when you press the shutter
-use the neckstrap to create tension with your elbow
-and the last - don't drink cofee and don't smoke :D


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johnstoy
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Dec 10, 2006 09:34 |  #14

SkipD wrote in post #2379671 (external link)
Regarding the 1/focal length rule-of-thumb, since the rule-of-thumb was created with the 35mm film camera in mind, one does need to multiply the focal length by the "crop factor" when doing the calculation.

I just switched from a 35mm Film SLR... Thanks for the heads up on the 1.6x and shutter speed relationship...


John Stoy

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"Are you only Looking or actually Seeing", from Microbiology 101.

  
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SBCmetroguy
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Dec 10, 2006 13:14 |  #15

johnstoy wrote in post #2379548 (external link)
Yes the number 500 in your view finder or on your screen is the shutter speed...Be carefull not to confuse the ISO settings numbers with the shutter speed number, cause they (ISO) aren't in fractions...

It probably would be best to check your instruction manual for the actual shutter speed list, for your camera...because shutter speeds are fractions, but are shown as the lower number of the fraction 1/500th is shown as 500...ISO 500 is shown as 500 too...so be careful what mode you are in when setting the features.

Use the instruction book for clarification...

1/500th shutter speed would be a reasonalby safe speed to use the 75-300mm lens at...

Oh yes, I'm very careful with the ISO settings. I've actually never even touched it for the amount of noise it adds to the shots. What is the ISO good for? I see people actually use it, so what is its use?




  
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