ND Filter

Is this Hoya a devent first ND filter, or should I go anothe route? Any suggestions will be greatly appreaciated. Thanks

I don't know how other, more expert photographers feel, but IMO you don't need a ND filter with digital, since you can just change ISO on the fly. What you do need is a GRADUATED ND filter to accomodate the exposure range in a shot between dark & light areas, i.e. bright sky and dark mountains.

The Hoya multi-coated are decent. Others will say B&W, but I'm not experienced enough to know the difference. The important thing is that, besides good optical glass, it be multi-coated.

I am no expert but I noticed the Hoya ND filter that you've mentioned is 0.3 (1stop). I have a Kenko 0.8 (3stop) ND filter. I use it with combination of ND Grad filter for slowing down the shutter speed on bright days and it works really great at the coastal areas when I want the ocean to be misty.
I'm pretty sure that Hoya and Kenko belongs to the same parent company and I don't have any complaints with the quality of Kenko. Obviously the strengh of the filter is something that needs to be considered depending on your needs and situation of use.

Cheers

I too am no expert but I use a ND filter for waterfall shots so when slowing down the exposure I don't get blown highlights, oh, and the odd moon shot as well. I would say though that a Grad ND should be a must in any landscape photographer's kit bag. Far too many of my early shots were let down by blown skys.

Gr8outdrsmn wrote in post #2382086
Is this Hoya a devent first ND filter, or should I go anothe route? Any suggestions will be greatly appreaciated. Thanks

If you're going for Hoya (or Kenko) then go for the Pro1 series. Also look at B&W, e.g. this one. They are optically as good as the Hoya Pro1 and the rings, being brass are better built. If you're planning on getting multiple sizes, GNDs, polarizers etc. then it's more cost effective to get a drop-in filter system from somone like Lee.

It's probably been covered by previous posts but a uniform ND filter will ruduce the expose over the entire subject area by 1/2/ or 3 stops. Unless you have a really bright subject (not usually a problem in Scotland ), then I find can reduce get long exposures (for that misty water effect) by knocking the ISO down to 50/100 or reducing the aperture (f/11-f/22) to achieve a 1/3-1 sec exposure.

Graduated filters only affect one part of the subject, so are useful for reducing the brightness of the sky or balance reflections. Drop in systems, like Cokin/Lee, allow you to move the transition to match the composition. I have seen some screw in Grad ND filter but this gives a fixed transition which means the skyline or whatever must pass through a specific point in the frame.

Would recommend a drop in system as this give more oppertunity for expanding your filter selection with experience.

Thanks everyone, you have really helped me out. I think I may go with the B+W filter. Just have to do a little more research first.

One quick note:
I recommend a 2 or 3-stop ND filter as a 1-stop really doesn't do a whole lot for you.

And when you are at ISO 100 and maxed out the speed and have a specific DoF in mind, the only was to go is ND filter.

Longwatcher wrote in post #2385045
One quick note:
I recommend a 2 or 3-stop ND filter as a 1-stop really doesn't do a whole lot for you.

And when you are at ISO 100 and maxed out the speed and have a specific DoF in mind, the only was to go is ND filter.

Ditto. One stop can be allowed for in PP; more than that gets very tricky.