Indulge a fool

treeshugger wrote in post #2387188
im getting the pictures up, but does anyone know what these ridiculously large .cr2 files are?

Those are RAW files. Read the manual on this. You can set your 30D up to take JPEG, RAW, RAW + JPEG.

Install the software that came with the camera (DPP) then you can see the RAW file, edit them, and then save them as JPEGs.

Full image, sized and lightly compressed
iso=1600 and f/5.6 as someone suggested

The classic acid test for focus is to line up a number of AA size batteries (or something similar - batteries work well because they have writing which is easy for focus or focus analysis).

Shoot almost parallel to the line of batteries and make a note of which one you focused on. Then look at the "fuzzy" picture to see if they are all out of focus or is one is sharp. If the one you focused on is sharp, then you've eliminated one possible problem.

Set your 30D up for single central point focusing - page 77/78 - otherwise the camera won't know which battery to focus on.

Next step: install DPP on your computer, and using "View/Tool Pallette" try playing with "Sharpness". The battery you focused on should get better.

If one of the other batteries is sharp, then your camera may be back-focusing or front-focusing.

Photobucket? Try DPP - it comes with the camera - it will convert files to jpeg and tiff very well, and will do some limited enhancements. It will also handle very large files.

Doesn't look all that bad.

There appears to be nothing wrong from a sharpness standpoint in that image. I think you need to read the manual, familiarize yourself with the controls and functions...and shoot lots of pictures as a form of practice. The number of keepers will go up with practice.

Woolburr wrote in post #2387298
There appears to be nothing wrong from a sharpness standpoint in that image. I think you need to read the manual, familiarize yourself with the controls and functions...and shoot lots of pictures as a form of practice. The number of keepers will go up with practice.

I agree with this. In the 30D and the 17-40L you have some SERIOUS gear to take some awesome shots!

So DEFINITELY, read the manual, understand some basics in aperture/shutter speed, lighting, metering, ets...and practice.

Again, have reasonable expectations under those lighting conditions! Perhaps for your purposes the 14-70L wasn't exactly the best lens for the job. Something that can handle low light better might have been best. If you are willing to sell the 14-70L, spend another $300 or so, then might I suggest the EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS USM. It's not built like an "L" but sure takes pics like an "L"! With constant f/2.8 and IS you will have MUCH more success indoors.

Anyways, don't let things frustrate you!

Get a tripod while you are at it!!!

I think this is a good addition to the manual. Be forewarned, many here hate the author, Ken Rockwell, but I found the guide to be useful in learning the 30D.

http://www.kenrockwell​.com/canon/30d/users-guide.htm

joegolf68 wrote in post #2387342
I think this is a good addition to the manual. Be forewarned, many here hate the author, Ken Rockwell, but I found the guide to be useful in learning the 30D.

http://www.kenrockwell​.com/canon/30d/users-guide.htm

Frankly quite a lot of that is just flat wrong, or poor advice. I'd say handing it to a newbie is not really a good idea at all.

joegolf68 wrote in post #2387342
I think this is a good addition to the manual. Be forewarned, many here hate the author, Ken Rockwell, but I found the guide to be useful in learning the 30D.

http://www.kenrockwell​.com/canon/30d/users-guide.htm

OP....whatever you do...ignore this advice at all costs. There is a ton of misinformation in there. Ken Rockwell is an idiot.

I'm also new to the DSLR world. I just got done reading this book. Understanding Exposure - LINK

It'll give you a great understanding of apature, shutter speed and ISO and how they relate to one another.

That is a very worthwhile suggestion Avey.

tree, the cr2 files are raw files. raw requires some (or a lot, depending on what you want to achieve) of post processing -- otherwise known as photo editing. this might explain why your images look a bit soft. the camera does not apply any in-camera processing (yes, including sharpening). try shooting in JPEG.

The problem most photogs have is that the ergonomics are too good...

DO NOT GRIP THE GRIP...
I DON'T CARE WHAT THEY CALL IT...

The camera is not to be gripped, it is made to sit/rest/be cradled in your left hand while the right hand just lightly caresses the 'grip' and squeezes the shutter.

...you may read a lot of people complaining of tennis elbow from carrying the 30d around all day...it is because when holding the camera 75% of their camera holding is done with the right hand...

WRONG...

75% of the weight should be in the LEFT hand...that will give you much sharper results at slower shutter speeds...and save your elbow in the bargain.

I agree, experiment alot and in many different shooting situations.

tsaraleksi wrote in post #2387059
First, with the 17-40 you can't use the on camera flash (as I assume you are if it's always at 1/60), and that's beacuse the lens is wide, but long, and it will cast a bad shadow. Next, go outside to shoot some test shots, that will give you a better idea. I've seen some outrageously blurry 10D+17-40 shots that were done at 1/60 with the on camera flash, so I really think that it's just an issue of the flash not freezing your motion very well. You might try putting it in Av mode and selecting an aperture of f/4 to f/5.6 and shooting outside.

Well, the 17-40 will cast a shadow, but you should get a sharp picture where the flash has illuminated the picture.

Your death-like grip may be making you shakier than the average photographer. Try relaxing a little. If the strap's around your neck, you're very unlikely to let that couple thousand of glass, metal and plastic go crashing to the floor. And like kitacanon said - left hand under the camera/lens should be doing most of the work. The right hand is only there to steer and press the buttons.

If you're shooting indoors, try taking pictures across the room, not right up close. Give the camera a chance to focus on something that's safely in the focussing range. If it's reasonably light outddors, again, choose something at a middle distance (10-40 ft).