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Thread started 30 Dec 2006 (Saturday) 04:53
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Canon EF 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6 L IS USM

 
C ­ Scott ­ IV
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Dec 12, 2012 18:15 |  #961

Thank you! I love that place. It is forever changing.


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advaitin
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Dec 16, 2012 09:57 |  #962

Hello, folks. I've just added this lens to my cabinet. A refurbished copy from Canon, So far, so good. It really can get quite close to flowers and such at 300mm--not to mention shy turtles. Even so, these are crops and I did do a a little post exposure adjustments.


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ONE30
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Dec 16, 2012 10:13 |  #963

advaitin wrote in post #15372924 (external link)
Hello, folks. I've just added this lens to my cabinet. So far, so good.

...congrats, looking forward to seeing your posts!




  
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C ­ Scott ­ IV
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Dec 16, 2012 12:13 |  #964

Welcome to the club. The minimum focus distance is nice on this lens.


Charles
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advaitin
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Dec 16, 2012 13:07 |  #965

I tried uploading from Flickr and the size was outrageous. I think I fixed it. First shot right after getting the package:
35mm

IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8065/8278439962_33d2a7da4e_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/clgriffin/82784​39962/  (external link)
IMG_4404 (external link) by C L Griffin/Advaitin (external link), on Flickr

300mm
IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8210/8277383265_25c131b67e_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/clgriffin/82773​83265/  (external link)
IMG_4405a_resize (external link) by C L Griffin/Advaitin (external link), on Flickr

I didn't realize that I had it set on ISO6400 rather than auto, shot everything on Day one at the high ISO.
28mm
IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8062/8277386535_5df92a24e5_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/clgriffin/82773​86535/  (external link)
IMG_4406 (external link) by C L Griffin/Advaitin (external link), on Flickr

What's this business about the lens not being sharp at 28 or 300?
300mm
IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8501/8277392015_0df2a0b8fa_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/clgriffin/82773​92015/  (external link)
IMG_4411a (external link) by C L Griffin/Advaitin (external link), on Flickr

300mm
IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8361/8277394983_7ba209430b_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/clgriffin/82773​94983/  (external link)
IMG_4415 (external link) by C L Griffin/Advaitin (external link), on Flickr

300mm
IMAGE: http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8084/8278454924_38d9c0b112_b.jpg
IMAGE LINK: http://www.flickr.com/​photos/clgriffin/82784​54924/  (external link)
IMG_4460 (external link) by C L Griffin/Advaitin (external link), on Flickr

Canons to the left, Canons to the right,
We hold our L glass toward the light,
Digitizing in a snap reflective glory
That will forever tell our imaged story.

  
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cicopo
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Dec 16, 2012 15:20 |  #966

I added the 28-300 L IS to my kit after 4 seasons of shooting radio control events using a mix of lenses including the 35-350 L. After using both superzooms for my less than mainstream use I can easily recommend either to anyone shooting action hand held. With all the variables of doing that any shortcomings in IQ will be cancelled out by users not nailing their camera / lens down to something very stable. AF response caught anything I could keep in the viewfinder (on a 1D4 which was also added for this season, both were bought used). Here's some of what I shot including a couple from a full scale air show.

IMAGE: http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-TJXxU0ZoeTg/UHtK_aoL1sI/AAAAAAAAROM/bkpwEGFp-rc/s1024/INGR8160-001.JPG


IMAGE: http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-tZWVE58B-dc/UHtLKrnDOBI/AAAAAAAARPs/kTIhPv45_J4/s1024/INGR8245-001.JPG

IMAGE: http://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tN15rE1Gx-I/T5F_eN2uL4I/AAAAAAAALUw/lCYK25dhCv0/s1024/IMG_6474.JPG

IMAGE: http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Nsl_q-iCk94/T9_dTKOJGSI/AAAAAAAAL1s/RxLVyhqCBaE/s1024/INGR0912.JPG

IMAGE: http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RWkbtT4D_dE/UCG8LBwN15I/AAAAAAAAOLA/I3QC_pOq3ik/s1024/INGR3789.JPG

IMAGE: http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1Vt4X8FS_-M/UDFUk9dUJxI/AAAAAAAAOeA/tyv9OTTrbUM/s1024/INGR4962.JPG

IMAGE: http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-DGYBlNv4yw8/UDFVCYv7vBI/AAAAAAAAOg8/676swBiWyJM/s1024/INGR5153.JPG

And this crop should display at very close to 100%

IMAGE: http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-HuWLgMmKUHI/UM46E5_gDwI/AAAAAAAARdM/N0vpzvysqEE/s1024/INGR5153.JPG

A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought.

  
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C ­ Scott ­ IV
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Dec 16, 2012 17:20 |  #967

This lens gets a bad rap for poor image quality. Strangely the poor IQ comments are virtually the same as the poor IQ comments for the 100-400L. Many times it comes from people who are new to long and heavy lenses. Many times they take it out for one outing and say it is crap because their 18-55 does better. There are many factors besides the lens that contribute to IQ.

I'm sure there have been some legitimate IQ issues from experienced users. And we shouldn't expect to see the same IQ from a superzoom as a 70-200 4L or 2.8L.

I have to admit there is a learning curve. The images I captured this year are obviously sharper than those from last year. Hmm, the more I learn the sharper it gets. Others have proven It can be even sharper.

Then there are lens specific tweaks. Mine seems to be sharper on moving targets when the minimum focus distance is set to the longer setting. Using the best IS mode for the circumstances is also a factor. Spot focus and spot metering also helps.


Charles
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advaitin
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Dec 16, 2012 18:19 |  #968

Well, I've been pleasantly surprised by the uniform quality at either end of the zoom.


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x_tan
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Dec 17, 2012 07:23 |  #969

advaitin wrote in post #15372924 (external link)
Hello, folks. I've just added this lens to my cabinet. A refurbished copy from Canon, So far, so good. It really can get quite close to flowers and such at 300mm--not to mention shy turtles. Even so, these are crops and I did do a a little post exposure adjustments.

Welcome to the club, you have the the BEST flowers shoots in this thread already :D

cicopo wrote in post #15374088 (external link)
I added the 28-300 L IS to my kit after 4 seasons of shooting radio control events using a mix of lenses including the 35-350 L. After using both superzooms for my less than mainstream use I can easily recommend either to anyone shooting action hand held. With all the variables of doing that any shortcomings in IQ will be cancelled out by users not nailing their camera / lens down to something very stable. AF response caught anything I could keep in the viewfinder (on a 1D4 which was also added for this season, both were bought used). Here's some of what I shot including a couple from a full scale air show.

And this crop should display at very close to 100%

QUOTED IMAGE

If all photos from radio control planes? They are really really cool!

Anyway 28-300L is not Canon 400/500/600 L prime, which are the 'usual suspect' for the best photos for air shows :) $3K super zoom is never close to $7K plus prime for sure.

I finally settled myself down for not getting into bird photography as it costs far far too much.

I like to say thanks to ALL birds photographers for their great jobs bring us those beautiful birds, so I can enjoy them just sitting infront of my PC.


Canon 5D3 + Zoom (EF 17-40L, 24-105L & 28-300L, 100-400L II) & Prime (24L II, 85L II, 100L, 135L & 200 f/2.8L II; Zeiss 1,4/35)
Sony α7r + Zeiss 1,8/55 FE
Nikon Coolpix A; Nikon F3 & F100 + Zeiss 1,4/50
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timberlandlh
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Dec 17, 2012 10:59 as a reply to  @ C Scott IV's post |  #970

Any here tried to shoot race cars at night with just track lighting??? I'm headed to Daytona in a month for the Rolex 24 hr race and debating if my 28-300L, with 7D will capture any images at night while the cars are at speed. Or....should I look at lensrentals???


Canon S100 and Canon 7D, Canon 28-300L 3.5/5.6 IS, Canon 70-200L 2.8 non IS, Canon 10-22 I'll give it a lil "l", Canon 50 1.8, LEE 10X Filter, Benro Travel Angel A-169....REI back pack, hiking boots and a photogenic black labrador

  
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Naturography
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Dec 17, 2012 11:10 |  #971

how does the sharpness on this lens compare to the 35-350 despite the IS advantage or gain and loss of the wide and long range ends. Better optics?


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advaitin
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Dec 17, 2012 15:53 |  #972

timberlandlh wrote in post #15377075 (external link)
Any here tried to shoot race cars at night with just track lighting??? I'm headed to Daytona in a month for the Rolex 24 hr race and debating if my 28-300L, with 7D will capture any images at night while the cars are at speed. Or....should I look at lensrentals???

You'd be well advised to carry a longer and faster lens. The track is lit and there are several spots from which you can capture the cars. I'm trying to remember and I think I was able to freeze cars with a 100-400mm zoom at f5.6 with 3200 ISO back when that was the High setting, but I haven't been back on the track since 2003. They've made improvements to both ISO and the track since then. Not sure if the lights are any better, but there are some nice spots to shoot from.

If I'm here--and I haven't sold it yet or donated it to the college photography school for the tax writeoff--I have a 400mm L F2.8 (no IS) available.


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cicopo
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Dec 17, 2012 22:04 |  #973

The Snowbird photos are the real thing but the rest are radio control models. I shoot R/C events (as a volunteer for no pay) that in general force me to cover an area about the size of 4 football fields, 2 wide by 2 end to end & I'll be in the middle on the sideline of the first pair that are end to end. I'll have 3 or 4 planes in action anywhere in that area, including up close in front of me doing a take off or landing, a low pass either slowly or at full speed. I use 2 or 3 bodies to do it & my primary body will have the superzoom while my other body will use a 100-400 L IS. This combination was arrived at after trying to do it with a 70-200 f2.8 L IS on the primary body but that was a bit too long now & then.
As for differences in IQ between the 35-350 L & the 28-300 L IS in my use I can't really see any appreciable difference thanks to my panning skills (good or bad) & the fact I need to use shutter speeds low enough for prop blur. Fortunately model engines rev higher than the full scale's do but then again I'm much closer & the speeds can be much faster than the real ones fly compared to the scale of them. (IE if a 1/4 scale models flies at 100 MPH 50 feet out form my position how fast would the real thing need to go 500 feet out?).

These are from the 35-350L on my 1Ds2 and the tight crops were made as close to 1024 pixels wide as I could so that they would display at 100%. The first pass is a slow one, & the flaps are down, but it's still doing about 120 MPH. The second pass is flat out, which had been clocked earlier at 320 MPH +/- depending on how high he started the dive from. I've also added a few other shots from the 35-350 L that pretty much confirm that for MY use they both deliver, but having the IS of the 28-300 is a bonus which I have put to use in slow shutter speed pans done as a sideline since the clubs aren't really into technique like we are. The first sample is at 1/800 & the second is 1/1000.

IMAGE: http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-GOXs0yaG-MI/TJ1M2mXZqhI/AAAAAAAADDI/hR67o2K6aVc/s1024/VZ1Q4981-1.jpg


IMAGE: http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-EcA-8OW3WGI/UM-0Rg512aI/AAAAAAAARdg/fbUYR03dAPE/s1024/VZ1Q4981.JPG

IMAGE: http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j4B5_bnEnoA/TJ1M9Q7qOMI/AAAAAAAADDI/54FuM0tfQ3U/s1024/VZ1Q4990-1.jpg

IMAGE: http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-rLv9EVh9hA4/UM-0kqNPSsI/AAAAAAAARdo/buZ96zIXGcU/s1024/VZ1Q4990.JPG

These are samples from the 35-350 L. Shutter speeds used are less than ideal when seeking max IQ & they are hand held & while panning.

!/500

IMAGE: http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-nrOYEAR_sds/TlG90V_nWZI/AAAAAAAAIL4/iL6J4YiJVGU/s1024/VZ1Q3923.JPG


IMAGE: http://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-AnEkwiBkJNI/TlFXjGzdZBI/AAAAAAAAHq0/tlvT9FF-qZA/s1024/VZ1Q3007.JPG

IMAGE: http://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zleXZqT6B2k/TlFXXq7OaBI/AAAAAAAAHqE/5OcCbkwtCqg/s1024/VZ1Q2984.JPG

1/800

IMAGE: http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-EGWgB8_DdJA/TnaOUPNGw1I/AAAAAAAAJsw/GGK9w1JdTIQ/s1024/VZ1Q5662.JPG

I firmly believe that technique has far more to do with getting better images than scientific tests in controlled conditions. Hand holding & / or panning defeat just about any advantage a lab test suggests one lens has over another unless they are far apart in price.

A skill is developed through constant practice with a passion to improve, not bought.

  
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C ­ Scott ­ IV
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Dec 20, 2012 15:10 |  #974

Shooting with a 35-350L for one day sold me on the focal range and quality. The 28-300L has IS and is still in production so I bought one.

Here's another bayou shot.

IMAGE: http://www.cscott4.com/Landscapes/2012-Landscape/i-swq7Hfj/3/XL/20121202-5736-XL.jpg
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Charles
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advaitin
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Dec 20, 2012 16:17 |  #975

Still trying to do the macro thing. Full 300mm and edited crop.


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Canons to the left, Canons to the right,
We hold our L glass toward the light,
Digitizing in a snap reflective glory
That will forever tell our imaged story.

  
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Canon EF 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6 L IS USM
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