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Thread started 31 Dec 2006 (Sunday) 04:03
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Lighting tricks for high-noon?

 
NBEast
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Dec 31, 2006 04:03 |  #1

First real wedding shoot - before now I've only practiced on friends where a Pro was covering it also.

It's "me or nobody" - so at least I shouldn't feel guilty about practicing on them. I think I'll do OK, and that's all they're expecting. I should get lucky on some shots, so they'll have a few to frame.

Now I find it's over 100 people (I expected 20 - 30 for a casual 1 hour gig), wedding dress + bridesmaid stuff, Bride wants everything from dressup shots to formals, and on to a reception at a separate indoor location. All catered, etc. Talked with Bride today and she's very excited to get lots and lots of photos.

Next; I find it's at 11AM on the beach! Besides the sand factor, Oh the sun, Oh the reflected light, Oh the contrasts!

Yoiks! I can use my 580EX flash, head to the shade of the pier and use Manual, but I'd really love to hear some sage advice from a pro.

I can get a reflector, slave flash + pod, but of course, I don't know about using either. Are they necessary?

It's scheduled for March, so I have time to learn and practice.

Thank you very much, in advance.


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Mike ­ Fulton
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Dec 31, 2006 11:01 |  #2

I use slave flash units for everything, its how I shoot and what i teach in my workshops

Here is a good example, taken in Cabo, Mexico around 2pm not a cloud in the sky for the most part. Wireless flash exposed the subject while I underexposed the subjects by a 1/2 stop in my camera to help bring out the blue sky some.

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jamiewexler
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Jan 01, 2007 08:38 |  #3

Bright daytime is when I usually switch my 20D/30D to P mode. That lets the camera calculate the aperture to keep the SS within the 1/200-250 max sync speed required by the flash. I've also found that in P mode the Canon underexposes bright daylight scenes slightly, which holds the highlights and provides punchier colors. If the camera is shooting a little hot I'll use EV comp to lower the exposure.

With that taken care of, I focus on making sure the flash output is strong enough to handle the job of fill. I usually end up adding +2/3 to +1 FEC, carefully watching the histogram to make sure I'm not blowing out the dress. That's different than I would use my flash in, say, the shade, where I typically back it way down...

Of course, noontime sun should be the easiest to shoot manually. Just use the oldest rule in the photographer's handbook (invented way before 35 zone evaluative TTL metering) and shoot M:ISO100:1/125:f16 :D


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sapearl
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Jan 01, 2007 09:47 |  #4

Ah yes, the ever famous "Sunny 16 Rule" - well spoken ;) .

jamiewexler wrote in post #2472484 (external link)
...............
Of course, noontime sun should be the easiest to shoot manually. Just use the oldest rule in the photographer's handbook (invented way before 35 zone evaluative TTL metering) and shoot M:ISO100:1/125:f16 :D


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NBEast
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Jan 01, 2007 13:50 |  #5

Wow, cool advice! I must practice.

I like that name; "Sunny 16".

Mike: Thanks for the slave advice. Do you use pocket wizard type stuff or just a regular flash. Also; is that with in-shoe Master? I'd love to take such a workshop.


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