Shooting with Flash - Setup Suggestions

Ok this may be really basic but here it goes...

I have pretty much always used the auto mode when using flash (program mode) but I was wondering if I can get a feel from you Wedding Pro's on what I should use for a up-coming wedding shoot. I will be doing the Reception.

I have a Canon 10d and a new 580EX Flash

I will also have a 4 x 4 1/2 FlipIt with the diffuser option that I just ordered.

Let me know your comments on what setting would be a best case.

Thank you very much!

Cheers,

Reception. Indoor/outdoor.?....If it's a typical dark reception hall then I would suggest playing with the settings. In "p" mode your camera will set your shutter speed at 1/60 and the aperture at 5.6 or 6.7..........so depending on how much DOF you want and how much ambient light you want (mostly creative factors)..You’ll need to adjust accordingly.

I typically take advice here and don't give so remember that!.....but,..If your not sure (at all) what to do just make sure you AVOID direct flash (red eye and harsh shadows). The flip-it should work and a flash bracket would too.

Thanks for the tips...

Most all the time when I use a flash it's in "P"rogram mode - and will be using the Flip-It with a Newton Bracket (which I love by the way) ...

Take care!

Dave

mackb wrote in post #2489447
Reception. Indoor/outdoor.?....If it's a typical dark reception hall then I would suggest playing with the settings. In "p" mode your camera will set your shutter speed at 1/60 and the aperture at 5.6 or 6.7..........so depending on how much DOF you want and how much ambient light you want (mostly creative factors)..You’ll need to adjust accordingly.

I typically take advice here and don't give so remember that!.....but,..If your not sure (at all) what to do just make sure you AVOID direct flash (red eye and harsh shadows). The flip-it should work and a flash bracket would too.

Perhaps I will pose this as a POLL ...

When shooting and using Flash - bounce / diffused etc.

What is your most common camera & flash setting - I am really looking for 580 EX shooters - since that is what I have

I know, my gear list show 420 , I have one of those too... ( I need to update my gear list and put it as a link )

Thanks!

Dave

Set to 1/30 at f/4 (or wider) at ISO 400 in M mode ... and I fire away and let the Flash do it's thing. I might set the EC to -1/3 just to dim the ambient a LITTLE. M mode with the flash is a thing of beauty.

Here's how I approach this:

• Go manual mode - like bpuppy says, it's a thing of beauty
  
• Shutter set at 1/30 to 1/60, depending on speed of the action
  
• Again, like bpuppy suggests: ISO 400
  
• Let the aperture be controlled by what you want to create, always remembering that the smaller the aperture, the more flash battery you will consume for the shot.
  
  
• Set EC to -1/3 to -2/3 to control/calm the ambient a touch.
  
• Set FEC to 0 to +1.
  
  
• Take some test shots and evaluate your histogram until you get it dialed in.
  
  
• Check the histogram once in a while throughout, just to make sure. Once you have it dialed in, you probably wont be off more than 1/3 stop and you can recover that in PP.
  
  
• Most importantly, HAVE FUN.
  

All very good advice given here with Scott and bpuppy. Indoor flash almost always equals manual mode. Many beginers shy away from manual but keep this in mind... Think of that 580EX in E-TTL mode as being in full prgram mode. Think of the flash for a second as a whole seprate intelligent unit apart from the camera. Now think of the camera as the unit that will capture the ambient light only. So in manual mode you will still see the light meter reading and know if it is registering the ambient light as being under or over exposed. Typically indoor reception = low light and typically you want, as mentioned, this light to register as under exposed slightly. I go as much as -1, but usually -2/3. Go under too much and it will look like you were shooting in a cave. OK, now the flash is going to control it's own power. It will deliver the power needed to expose properly based on what your camera settings are. Remember that a small aprture lets less light in so the flash will have to deliver more power to compensate. The 580EX has a nice distance meter on the back that will show how how far the effective distance of the flash will be. If your subjects are out of this range they will be underexposed so you can a) get closer or b) open the aperture or c) bump up the ISO setting. Ideally you set it so the flash gets your subjects exposed properly but drops off shortly beyond your subjects so your background exposure is entirely dependant on ambient light exposure which we set to be slightly under. This way your subjects 'pop' a bit, but the background is not cave-dark either.

Here's an example of some images I pulled together for a two page spread for an album that shows the results of such settings (password is 'eternity') :

http://www.pbase.com/d​ermit/image/64059984

Oh gezzzz....

BPuppy, Scott, Dermit -

This is fantastic information! - I cannot thank you enough for the photog 101, I did not relize that the use of flash could be such a art

Yes I know - I am showing I am a aspiring photog, but to be honest - I have been shooting since the late 70's film / darkroom stuff but have been getting heavy into the digital stuff for the past 2 years and now really getting into what "light" can really do for your pics. The real difference between "snap-shots" and pro with out a doubt.

One reason I bought the 580 EX is, I want to also get into the use of on camera and one slave flash ... the other reason - it rocks! ( I have the 580 ex and the 420 ex now )

Anyway, Again - thank you so much for all of your wisdom - I can see this thread may get a bit interesting

I am taking notes for sure!

And thanks to anyone else in advance for your thoughts on "best" case for Flash work.

Cheers,

Dave

Great info!

Making notes now, but

Your URL sample is asking for a password....

Thanks again!

Dave

Dermit wrote in post #2492757
All very good advice given here with Scott and bpuppy. Indoor flash almost always equals manual mode. Many beginers shy away from manual but keep this in mind... Think of that 580EX in E-TTL mode as being in full prgram mode. Think of the flash for a second as a whole seprate intelligent unit apart from the camera. Now think of the camera as the unit that will capture the ambient light only. So in manual mode you will still see the light meter reading and know if it is registering the ambient light as being under or over exposed. Typically indoor reception = low light and typically you want, as mentioned, this light to register as under exposed slightly. I go as much as -1, but usually -2/3. Go under too much and it will look like you were shooting in a cave. OK, now the flash is going to control it's own power. It will deliver the power needed to expose properly based on what your camera settings are. Remember that a small aprture lets less light in so the flash will have to deliver more power to compensate. The 580EX has a nice distance meter on the back that will show how how far the effective distance of the flash will be. If your subjects are out of this range they will be underexposed so you can a) get closer or b) open the aperture or c) bump up the ISO setting. Ideally you set it so the flash gets your subjects exposed properly but drops off shortly beyond your subjects so your background exposure is entirely dependant on ambient light exposure which we set to be slightly under. This way your subjects 'pop' a bit, but the background is not cave-dark either.

Here's an example of some images I pulled together for a two page spread for an album that shows the results of such settings (password is 'eternity') :

http://www.pbase.com/d​ermit/image/64059984

Dermit wrote in post #2492757
Here's an example of some images I pulled together for a two page spread for an album that shows the results of such settings (password is 'eternity') :

http://www.pbase.com/d​ermit/image/64059984

I attempted to view the photograph(s), got stopped by request for password?

It would help if one would read the entire post!!! Sorry.

Just looked at the photo - Oh, that is very nicely done!!

I shoot everything RAW, and go between "T" & "A" when there is sufficient light. But in the evening, and at weddings in darker reception halls, or even a dim church I will run the camera on "M", 1/30 sec (maybe a little faster) and aperture manually set between f/5.6 & 8 thereabouts, ISO 800. If the lighting is a little brighter, I'll knock it back to ISO 400.

My 580 is set to Auto ETTL - I just let it do it's thing, chimping now and again to adjust FEC+ if there's something I don't really like. I'll send you a PM to a client's recent online proof gallery so you can see some actual samples. - Stu

bpuppy wrote in post #2491714
Set to 1/30 at f/4 (or wider) at ISO 400 in M mode ... and I fire away and let the Flash do it's thing. I might set the EC to -1/3 just to dim the ambient a LITTLE. M mode with the flash is a thing of beauty.

I agree...it provides an almost "restrictions free" shooting mode.

follow-up...won't the 1/30 blur the shots...unless you're on a tripod. I would imagine anything lower than 1/50 you'd have some blurring. No? I shot a wedding recently where the lighting was poor in the church. I shot in M, bounced the flash and never went below 1/60.

Yes, it most certainly can if you're not careful. Been there done that .

I'll use that 1/30 sec a lot myself in really dark halls and churches. But if you brace yourself pretty well, end if it's especially dark, the flash will FREEZE the action. You run into trouble when the ambient light is bright enough to cause this sort of aggravation.

It takes practice over time. But the more venues you attend, the better you get at becoming a "human light meter" in judging the type and intensity of light you encounter. - Stu

sageone wrote in post #2493512
follow-up...won't the 1/30 blur the shots...unless you're on a tripod. I would imagine anything lower than 1/50 you'd have some blurring. ......

thanks stu...good advice. Never thought about going below 1/60 because of handshake...though the flash "grabbing" the shot makes total sense. Never thought about that. POTN strikes again.