Need Head Advice...

SkipD wrote in post #2675011
If every lens used on a person's monopod has a tripod foot that can be rotated around the lens' axis, I would agree. However, the ball head provides the ultimate flexibility for users with ANY lens on the camera.

I think his point was that for sports, this is of little importance and I agree. Messing around with a ballhead for horizontal action shooting is way overkill and not needed (and probably a liability - one more thing to mess with).

J.

JohnJ80 wrote in post #2674732
In that case, for sports shooting, the most you will need is a 3232 and probably not even that...

Apparently what you and I shoot has different requirements. As you can see in the photo, I already have the 3229 which is actually even a step above the 3232 (since it has a quick release). That would be great if all I ever had to do was rotate to portrait mode and continue shooting. But, if you've ever tried to shoot a gymnastics competition from close-up, you have to be able to also rotate the camera lens up and down. Rotating it only on the axis of the lens is not nearly good enough. And with the length of the monopod it is not practical to lean it forward and back, you just can't react quickly enough. When shooting this close to the action, rotation in X, Y, and Z is absolutely essential. However the tip above about configuring the head to rotate forward and back, combined with the ability of the 70-200 to rotate inside the collar reduces my need for a different head, at least when using this lens.

SkipD wrote in post #2675011
If every lens used on a person's monopod has a tripod foot that can be rotated around the lens' axis, I would agree. However, the ball head provides the ultimate flexibility for users with ANY lens on the camera.

I will buy a ball head before long (B&H and Adorama were both out of stock on the 488RC2 when I checked a few days ago).

Woolburr wrote in post #2674769
I use the 3229 on my pod...shooting mostly sports...never had a problem with it. I can quickly shift between horizontal and vertical axis shots. Adding a ball head to a monopod seems like a bit of overkill.

For shooting from somewhat of a distance, or maybe something like football, soccer or baseball I might agree. But when it comes to gymnastics, cheerleading, etc., a LOT of the action is vertical, and potentially very close to you. For my needs I'm convinced that only a ball head will do.

rklepper wrote in post #2674327
Get the 486 RC2. It is great on a monopod.

I don't suppose you have first hand experience with both the 486RC2 and the 488RC2, do you? Looking at the pictures on the B&H site doesn't tell me very much. I'm just wondering if the extra $$ for the 488 is worth it. At the very least, I might look at the 488 as an additional head for my tripod.

Like Skip, I use a 488RC2 on the tripod and 486RC2 on the monopod; the difference is essentially the pan control on the 488, which you don't need on a monopod. If you're looking for one head both places, the 488's good, but if you want a head for each the 486 is just the ticket for a monopod.

Jon wrote in post #2676930
Like Skip, I use a 488RC2 on the tripod and 486RC2 on the monopod; the difference is essentially the pan control on the 488, which you don't need on a monopod. If you're looking for one head both places, the 488's good, but if you want a head for each the 486 is just the ticket for a monopod.

That is exactly what I needed to know!!! Thanks Jon!

Jeff Solenberg wrote in post #2676911
I don't suppose you have first hand experience with both the 486RC2 and the 488RC2, do you? Looking at the pictures on the B&H site doesn't tell me very much. I'm just wondering if the extra $$ for the 488 is worth it. At the very least, I might look at the 488 as an additional head for my tripod.

The 488RC2 is bigger, heavier, and stronger than the 486RC2. I use the 488RC2 on my tripods and the 486RC2 on my monopod or on other fixtures for specialty use.

Like Jon said, the 488RC2 has the additional panning capability that the 486RC2 does not. That feature is not needed on a monopod because you just twist the monopod for panning. The feature is best used for making multiple horizintal shots to stitch into wide panoramic photos (though there are problems with that when the subjects are close to you).

Jeff Solenberg wrote in post #2676824
Apparently what you and I shoot has different requirements. As you can see in the photo, I already have the 3229 which is actually even a step above the 3232 (since it has a quick release). That would be great if all I ever had to do was rotate to portrait mode and continue shooting. But, if you've ever tried to shoot a gymnastics competition from close-up, you have to be able to also rotate the camera lens up and down. Rotating it only on the axis of the lens is not nearly good enough. And with the length of the monopod it is not practical to lean it forward and back, you just can't react quickly enough. When shooting this close to the action, rotation in X, Y, and Z is absolutely essential. However the tip above about configuring the head to rotate forward and back, combined with the ability of the 70-200 to rotate inside the collar reduces my need for a different head, at least when using this lens.

Sorry I wasn't clear.

I take the 3232 and mount an arca swiss compatible clamp on it from RRS. I then have an L bracket on my camera. The 3232 is NOT used to gain portrait mode, that is done with the L bracket. The 3232 is then used to adjust the camera angle up and down. Pivot/pan is done by turning the monopod.

Using the 3232 or 3229 in portrait mode with the camera flopped over and hanging over the side is not a good idea and uncomfortable to use in my expereince.

In this way, getting the camera adjusted to angles higher than horizontal is very easy and very fast using the method described. You also do not have to fool with the ballhead's tendency to want to articulate other directions than up and down but you do gain the vertical angle you are seeking - all the way to straight up. Many times I adjust this with one hand (I set it to be adjusted on my left) while keeping my right hand on the shutter and face to the viewfinder.

J.

I saw the title of this thread and thought I was on a different forum. Gotta get my head out of the gutter.

JohnJ80 wrote in post #2677573
Sorry I wasn't clear.

I take the 3232 and mount an arca swiss compatible clamp on it from RRS...

My bad. I didn't follow what you were saying. This sounds very interesting. I'm not familiar with the arca swiss compatible clamp you mentioned. I went to B&H and didn't have much luck searching. Would it be asking too much to have you take a quick shot of your monopod head so I can see your setup?

My only other concern, if I understood your point, is that all of this would work beautifully with my 70-200 since it has a tripod mount collar, but I'd be out of luck with my 24-105... Although I'm having a hard time trying to figure out when I might even use this lens on a monopod.

Jeff Solenberg wrote in post #2677697
My bad. I didn't follow what you were saying. This sounds very interesting. I'm not familiar with the arca swiss compatible clamp you mentioned. I went to B&H and didn't have much luck searching. Would it be asking too much to have you take a quick shot of your monopod head so I can see your setup?

My only other concern, if I understood your point, is that all of this would work beautifully with my 70-200 since it has a tripod mount collar, but I'd be out of luck with my 24-105... Although I'm having a hard time trying to figure out when I might even use this lens on a monopod.

Ok, here are some pics. This is a Really Right Stuff Arca Swiss compatible screw clamp mounted to a Manfrotto 3232 mounted to a Gitzo 2940 Basalt monopod. I think it will work great for you. I also think Acra Swiss is a better clamp system and has plates for all cameras and lenses. It is a bit more expensive, but it is also more flexible in my opinion.

My 5d with 135 f/2L in landscape mode:

That's fantastic info! Thanks John!

Glad to help.

I think the difference is that you can orient the clamp the way you want on the 3232. The 3229 you can't because it is integral (I have one too - never use it).

As well, the A-S plates from most of the suppliers are made for a specific model of camera. Therefore, they fit precisely, fit exactly, don't spin underneath the camera and are generally more stable and useful. The L plate is a winner that I would not be without (even though the cost is no fun) and have one on every camera and grip. Being able to quickly drop it into portrait mode on a tripod or monopod without having to flop it on its side where it is poorly balanced, is wonderful.

I use this rig to shoot skiing, soccer and volleyball with no problems. I've often thought of putting a ballhead on top, and in fact tried it with one I have here but found that it has too many degrees of freedom when you release the ball. I grant that some may find this useful, but for sports, I haven't.

What I like about this is that you can adjust this easily while looking through the VF, hanging onto the shutter button/focus and adjust it with one hand. It is also rugged as all get out and the snow of skiing and grit of soccer fields doesn't seem to phase it. Nor the banging around that my gear always seems to get in these situations.

J.

Come on guys, this is a family forum. Head advice, monopod. What's next, grip action ball head?

Seriously, I have used my 322RC2 grip action ball head on several occasions. It's much heavier duty than the 3229 and 3232 (11 pounds) and very quick to adjust in all dimensions.

However, I almost always screw the monopod directly into the lens foot which is rock solid and still gives me full panning capability which I find adequate when I'm shooting sports.

Quick Q. for John: I am thinking (for a long time; I've seen the price tag) on getting the excact same setup for my monopod. However, AFAIK, the RRS L-plates have the clamp 'axis' parrelel to the film plane, while the QR plates for lenses with tripod collar have the 'grooves' running parallel to the lens axes. How does that work out?

René Damkot wrote in post #2679513
Quick Q. for John: I am thinking (for a long time; I've seen the price tag) on getting the excact same setup for my monopod. However, AFAIK, the RRS L-plates have the clamp 'axis' parrelel to the film plane, while the QR plates for lenses with tripod collar have the 'grooves' running parallel to the lens axes. How does that work out?

No problem at all. Just re-orient the clamp on the 3232 to be along the axis of tilt if that is what you want. The RRS clamps, which I think is unique amoung the clamps, have two 1/4-20 threaded holes alongside the main threaded hole by which you mount the stud. I drive a 1/4" allen headed set screw in there to hold the whole clamp assembly very firmly to the top but yet be very easy to remove. You screw the clamp onto the top, basically hand tight (no tools) then use the set screw to create the pressure to make it very tight. Release the set screw and it is very easy to turn it to the orientation you want. You don't have to use the set screw, but I like it.

To my knowledge there is no clamp system that is as strong, as stable nor as flexible as the A-S system. It is worth investing in for sure. You have multiple vendor support, it is tighter and better, there are oodles of accessories that are built for it - thinks like panning bases, flash brackets, macro focussing brackets, gimbal heads, on and on and on. Look at the following web sites for some ideas of what you can do with this stuff:

http://www.reallyright​stuff.com
http://www.kirkphoto.c​om
http://www.tripodhead.​com/ (Wimberley stuff)

J.