Does this device "really" work ...?

Hi Everyone!!

It does what it was designed to do. It doesn't perform miracles. There are some pretty heated threads about this particular device already. A little searching goes a long way. As far as how/when to use it, Gary Fong's website tells you that.

Thanks!

cdi-ink.com wrote in post #2647248
It does what it was designed to do. It doesn't perform miracles. There are some pretty heated threads about this particular device already. A little searching goes a long way. As far as how/when to use it, Gary Fong's website tells you that.

Thanks for the reply my friend. I already have it and it "seems" I get better results using bounced flash with my catchlight card extended on my Canon 580EX as opposed to using the lightsphere.

Here are a few examples... using bounced light and the catch-light card extended at a halloweeen party ... don;t remember how to impose the images here..

http://k41.pbase.com …146.Sl4xzEpt.IM​G_0403.JPG
http://i5.pbase.com …147.eoVR9cyL.IM​G_0405.JPG
http://k53.pbase.com …154.p2RC80Vd.IM​G_0411.JPG
http://i5.pbase.com …177.JVKrC4T6.IM​G_0431.JPG

I often wonder if had I used the lightsphere if I would have illuminated more of the shadowed areas. This post is mainly intended to see of anyone has some secrets for using this device which I may have missed on Gary's site or on the CD which comes with the product.

It's a rather controversial product. Run some tests on your own to see if you think it makes a difference. Set up a tripod and the same exact scene with the same exact camera settings, lens, focal length, etc and try bounced, bounced w/catchlight card, and lightsphere. It'll become more apparent.

And as I said before...search the forum and you'll find lots of opinions on it.

OK, thanks again for your valued feedback my friend.

Regards,
Dave

No problem. I take a neutral stance these days on this thing. I had the first incarnation of it and sold it off not too long after.

All of the "tupperware" diffusers require nearby reflective surfaces - typically white walls and/or ceiling - to function effectively. If you don't have those surfaces to reflect the light back toward the subject, the net result is a lot of lost light from the flash source. The reason is simple - the diffuser spreads the light in all directions. Any light that never reaches the subject is lost.

I understand Doug ... just wondering if in situations with very high ceilings (black or dark ones at that) if having such a device (with the dome on top attached) would prove beneficial.

Regards,
Dave

doesnt his video even suggest that the light produced from the device gives a better result than controled studio lights?

DOrtiz wrote in post #2647406
I understand Doug ... just wondering if in situations with very high ceilings (black or dark ones at that) if having such a device (with the dome on top attached) would prove beneficial.

Regards,
Dave

No. It would just waste light in that circumstance, and cause the flash batteries to run down sooner!

Dave,
The link below contains a video that explains the theories behind various flash bouncing/diffusing devices. It might be worth watching.
http://abetterbounceca​rd.com

The idea behind most of the various attachments sold for hotshoe flash units is to direct some of the light toward your subject while letting the rest bounce off the ceiling. In my mind, the most valuable and versatile of these attachments are the ones that allow you to control the ratio of direct light vs. bounced light, and do it with some degree of efficiency.

Work to understand the basic theories behind lighting, and you will be better able to choose the right equipment and techniques for a given situation.

I'm not a big fan of the Gary Fong products. I don't think they're worthless, but I do believe that a photographer who understands the physics and aesthetics of lighting can use cheaper, more compact and more versatile devices and create effects just as good.

It is a pricy piece of crap.

I have the Lumiquest Pro-Max System that I am really happy with. But I can't keep my lunch in it on the way to a shoot!

LSII is a tool, you dont use pliers to tighten socket head cap screws. The LS will do everything in the videos on the Fong site under the same conditions in the video. The thing isnt ment to do everything. Of the example pictures you posted from your party I think the pic of the man in the straw cowboy hat would have benifited from the LS over the catch light card, filling in the shadow from his hat better making a more even exposure. The larger the light source the softer it will be, weather it a clowd filled sky vs direct sun or the LSII vs the catch light card on your flash. After saying all that I have really come to like the ABetterBounceCard. Ive been using it more than anything lately.

It works in certain instances. It doesn't work in others. I still use my original LSII and get good results with it. But as has been mentioned, you will be better off overall if you learn how to use light, period. Light can be bounced, reflected, diffused, and direct and all provide different qualities and results.